Jump to content
APC Forum

Best and most economical Ball Mill Jars? DIY


Kaokin

Recommended Posts

I don't know what size BM you built. But, if its fairly small & could handle a 4 inch jar. For the sake of durability & safety. I would simply use 4 inch PVC capped on 1 end & a 4X3 or 4X2 inch reducer on the other end. With a rubber pressure test cap to close it. It may cost a little more, but its simple to construct & the parts are found at about any decent big plumbing & hardware store.

 

The BM I am building is a big rugged one. LOL, motor is bigger than my little 3lb harbor freight rig & the HF BM would fit inside one of my jars.

 

gallery_10713_78_347207.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_253719.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_308566.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_248652.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_348002.jpg

Edited by oldguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 164
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • oldguy

    37

  • dagabu

    25

  • Kaokin

    24

  • Vrizla

    13

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Geeze it must cost a small fortune to fill those containers with media!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geeze it must cost a small fortune to fill those containers with media!!!

 

 

In most cases the media will cost more than all the other parts/components combined

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the Ebay links, oldguy. I bought one of those lots.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you use the Zirconia YTZ & M media for all of your milling? Should I have different batches of media for milling different comps? I know that sulfur based comps will explode when mixed with chlorates, are there other rules to follow as well or can I just wash off the media and use it with whatever comp I choose? That media seems to be some what porous and I would be concerned about residual chemicals getting stuck to it....

 

 

 

I bought some brass rod stock off ebay which i am going to slice into 5/8" chunks and use as media for black powder or other explosive comps. Brass seemed to be the best non-sparking option. maybe ill pick up some of that Zirconia YTZ & M media for my other comps in the future

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the Ebay links, oldguy. I bought one of those lots.

 

 

You will be a happy camper when you put it to use.

 

That stuff weighs about 30 lbs per gallon. It mills like a dream.

 

I was going to cast 100 ++ lbs of antimony hardened lead 5/8ths inch balls.

 

But, considering time/labor involved in casting, I bought this instead.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you use the Zirconia YTZ & M media for all of your milling? Should I have different batches of media for milling different comps? I know that sulfur based comps will explode when mixed with chlorates, are there other rules to follow as well or can I just wash off the media and use it with whatever comp I choose? That media seems to be some what porous and I would be concerned about residual chemicals getting stuck to it....I bought some brass rod stock off ebay which i am going to slice into 5/8" chunks and use as media for black powder or other explosive comps. Brass seemed to be the best non-sparking option. maybe ill pick up some of that Zirconia YTZ & M media for my other comps in the future

 

Zirc YTZ or M grinding media is harder than porcelain. It’s super easy to clean.

 

I dump it in a colander, sit the colander in a sink full of hot soapy water & stir the media around.

 

Then rinse it off with hot water. Comes out as clean as if I ran it through a washing machine or dishwasher.

 

So, there are few if any cross contamination issues.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still wouldn't be taking any chances with cross contaminating sulfur and chlorate compositions. Sulfur can be difficult to wash away if it gets lodged in any pores or cracks or anything. You will want a separate jar anyway, as they are nearly impossible to clean fully. In any case, unless you make your own chlorate, it usually comes fine enough as is without further milling. Media is not so cost prohibitive to take risks like that IMO. Trust me, I know the cost of an accident. Saving $20-50 on media will not pay off in the long run.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will be a happy camper when you put it to use.

 

That stuff weighs about 30 lbs per gallon. It mills like a dream.

 

I was going to cast 100 ++ lbs of antimony hardened lead 5/8ths inch balls.

 

But, considering time/labor involved in casting, I bought this instead.

 

 

 

 

 

Oldguy did you buy the "M" type media or the "YTZ" type media? I think he only has the M type used for cheap money; I noticed another auction that is for Zirconia Oxide as well. Is there a prefference for our applications?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still wouldn't be taking any chances with cross contaminating sulfur and chlorate compositions. Sulfur can be difficult to wash away if it gets lodged in any pores or cracks or anything. You will want a separate jar anyway, as they are nearly impossible to clean fully. In any case, unless you make your own chlorate, it usually comes fine enough as is without further milling. Media is not so cost prohibitive to take risks like that IMO. Trust me, I know the cost of an accident. Saving $20-50 on media will not pay off in the long run.

 

I have not yet used any comps containing chlorates. When I get around to comps with chlorates, just to be on the safe side plan there is to have a separate jar & media for chlorate comp use only.

 

Matter of fact, my BM design just changed again to a single drive, rather than double. That way I can make the roller not under power movable to bring the rollers closer together so I can also easily run 6 inch jars on the mill. As it was with 12 inch jars, rollers were to far apart to run 6 inch jars. I scrounged a 10 ft length of six inch PVC pipe free. Now looking for bargains on 6 inch PVC caps & reducers.

 

gallery_10713_78_223807.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oldguy did you buy the "M" type media or the "YTZ" type media? I think he only has the M type used for cheap money; I noticed another auction that is for Zirconia Oxide as well. Is there a prefference for our applications?

 

 

The better the media, less wear, so it lasts longer.

YTZ is about the best there is, but costs a fortune.

But, the M is very near as good & a better deal for the money.

I bought several differing lots. Some YTZ alone, some M alone & some a mix of both.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Googling around I found Genova Products 40156 6'' Cap Sewer & Drain (for 6 inch SDR 35 PVC pipe) for about $5 each & Genova Products 41564 6 Inch By 4 Inch PVC reducer for about $10 each & 4 inch rubber pressure test type end caps for $3 each (eBay on that one). 6 inch PVC pipe was free to me. So, I can build 6 inch PVC jars for under $20 each. Home Depot & Lowes has 3 ft lengths of 6 inch PVC pipe for $20. So even without the free pipe one could build four 6 X 9 inch PVC jars for about $25 each. If parts are mail ordered, you would have to figure that into the cost.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Googling around I found Genova Products 40156 6'' Cap Sewer & Drain (for 6 inch SDR 35 PVC pipe) for about $5 each & Genova Products 41564 6 Inch By 4 Inch PVC reducer for about $10 each & 4 inch rubber pressure test type end caps for $3 each (eBay on that one). 6 inch PVC pipe was free to me. So, I can build 6 inch PVC jars for under $20 each. Home Depot & Lowes has 3 ft lengths of 6 inch PVC pipe for $20. So even without the free pipe one could build four 6 X 9 inch PVC jars for about $25 each. If parts are mail ordered, you would have to figure that into the cost.

 

 

 

Menards carries all of the parts in stock, it will cost $21.00 each to build a standard Sponenburgh ball mill jar including glue, paint and taxes. The green waste water pipe runs $20.00 for a 10' section and will make 13 jars (jars are 8" long inside).

 

Make darn sure that you prime and glue both surfaces and twist the ends or they are likely to leak. Been there done that! :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am on the west coast. Menards is midwest to back east.

I wish there was one nearby, sadly not.

Edited by oldguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oldguy did you buy the "M" type media or the "YTZ" type media? I think he only has the M type used for cheap money; I noticed another auction that is for Zirconia Oxide as well. Is there a prefference for our applications?

I bought the M type. It arrived today and I put it through its paces grinding some potassium nitrate in my Harbor Freight mill. Half a full jar (about 200 pieces) weighs about 3 pounds - half a jar of lead weighs 5 pounds. I added half a pound of nitrate crystals, which disappeared completely down into the media when I shook it up. It started off on the mill quite clicky and noisy. About an hour later I realized I couldn't hear it any more so went outside to see if the belt had broken, but it was fine, just rolling in almost complete silence. I left it another half hour, then stopped it and opened the jar to find the nitrate ground as fine as corn starch and doubled in volume. Not only that, but it's as white as when it went in (lead media turns it gray). See pic.

 

So although one test isn't a complete evaluation, it does appear that it grinds much quicker than lead using less weight of media. Very promising. I'll try it with BP next.

post-10245-0-78771000-1303370706_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the M type. It arrived today and I put it through its paces grinding some potassium nitrate in my Harbor Freight mill. Half a full jar (about 200 pieces) weighs about 3 pounds - half a jar of lead weighs 5 pounds. I added half a pound of nitrate crystals, which disappeared completely down into the media when I shook it up. It started off on the mill quite clicky and noisy. About an hour later I realized I couldn't hear it any more so went outside to see if the belt had broken, but it was fine, just rolling in almost complete silence. I left it another half hour, then stopped it and opened the jar to find the nitrate ground as fine as corn starch and doubled in volume. Not only that, but it's as white as when it went in (lead media turns it gray). See pic.

 

So although one test isn't a complete evaluation, it does appear that it grinds much quicker than lead using less weight of media. Very promising. I'll try it with BP next.

 

How much was the media and do they have it in .75 size?

Sounds promising.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peret, That sounds great! I still wouldnt use this media for black powder though, To my knowledge the only guranteed non-sparking media types are lead or brass. The Zirconia media seems to be a great option for non-explosive compositions ; )
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peret, That sounds great! I still wouldnt use this media for black powder though, To my knowledge the only guranteed non-sparking media types are lead or brass. The Zirconia media seems to be a great option for non-explosive compositions ; )

 

Why oh why do these rumors continue to propagate?!?

 

There is NO evidence that this media is even capable of creating a heat causing spark. Simply rolling a plastic or rubber jar on rubber coated shaft generates static and I am 1000 times more concerned with static then the possibility that if a chunk of media is struck at high speed that it "could" create a spark.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In any case, the mill shouldn't be anywhere it could cause damage if it were to go off in the first place.

 

I wouldn't feel easy about milling with ceramic that isn't high alumina, but I'd put Zirconia in the same class I would alumina and feel fine about milling with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Zirconia “M” Grinding Media

 

http://www.usstoneware.com/products.htm

 

Magnesia Stabilized Zirconia grinding media mills twice as fast as equivalently-sized alumina media with only 1/2 the media weight loss and only 1/3 the wear (weight loss) of the grinding jar, with accompanying reduced batch contamination. Available in radius end cylinders, with length equal to their outside diameters. Features: 1.6 times denser than high alumina, Hard, non-porous surface, chip resistant, easily cleaned., Non-conductive, non-magnetic, excellent resistance to mechanical and thermal shock.

 

I fired a few at an angle into a high carbon steel plate with a wrist rocket sling shot.

I could not get it to spark & I assure you I tried about every way I could think of.

Including holding one with pliers against a steel wire polishing wheel on a grinder.

 

I think it has not seen a lot of BP use, simply because it is so expensive & hard to find in small lots for small money.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In any case, the mill shouldn't be anywhere it could cause damage if it were to go off in the first place.

 

This old guy looks funny unplugging the electrical extension cord, unlocking the chain holding the lid down, then using a short ladder to crawl into & out of a 6 yard steel garbage dumpster to retrieve the little jar from his 3 lb HF mill.

I will be glad when I get the BM bunker done. So, at least I can go in & out through a door.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An e-mail or call into Coors-tek or any of the other producers will let you know for sure if they're safe with explosives or at least get some idea of their sparking ability. I know Coors-tek makes these products, and also has experience in dealing with grinding media for explosive applications.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A good half dozen of us over the years have made that call, they do not certify any media as safe for explosive mixtures. Liability prohibits them from doing so.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...