a newbs progress and question thread

[Sulphurstan]

Rider

 

I started with the veline color system because it s so easy (especially the mix to get the "second-grade" colors), and the base chems are all the same.

 

The ones a like a lot (and still make now) are orange, green, aqua and magenta.

The blue disapointed me (but how to get a real deep blue without AP, that's one of THE pyro's everlasting quest).

For red, i switched to jopetes.

 

Try it out, and see how you feel about them... thats the only answer to your question

[Wiley]

As I've mentioned, I use some Spanish colors, some Buell, and some I made up. The base chems are all the same. I've heard the veline colors are more "pastel", so I avoided them altogether. Never made them myself, as a result. I really like the colors I do use though.

[Mumbles]

Decent is the word I'd use to describe them. The colors are distinct, they are compatible with one another, and they all burn at about the same rate. It's a great place to start. That said, a lot of people tend to move on eventually. There are more saturated colors available, but rarely do they exist in a system. You then have to start mixing and matching burn rates and relative brightness if you're mixing colors or doing color changing stars, and have to start worrying about incompatibilities and stuff.

[RiderX]

thanks ill start with the veline system for some of the reasons listed above , that and i really like the idea of having all the base chems the same to keep it simple for now

 

edit of course skylighter would be out of there kit right now during the 50% off sale , darnit

 

edit

 

ive got some more nested shells to test this weekend , hopefully i can get the camera settings right so it actually captures them , one thing i noticed in the video is that it shows it as pitch black outside when actually it was still a little light out when i shot that , as u could see the siloute of the mountains in the back ground in person

Edited August 11, 2017 by RiderX

[MrB]

I use, only, the Veline system for colors. Is there "better" colors around? For sure. Every one of these compositions is a compromise.

But the ease of use is, amazing.

Considering that you can use a base mix for the common chemicals, and then make 4 color mixes, and store them pre-mixed, and just "add one to another ass needed" makes it very easy to work with.

Just coz i'm stupid as fuck when it comes to remembering shit, i label the boxes, with what is in them, and put a tag on them with the mixing ratios. 56/44%, if memory serves me right, but if i don't label them, i'm going to screw up at some point.

[OldMarine]

Just so you know: Harry is closing Skylighter and retiring. I hope the archives are kept alive after he closes the door but just in case I've printed off everything that Ned hasn't moved to FW.com.

[greenlight]

Is the whole skylighter site getting removed?

[RiderX]

Just so you know: Harry is closing Skylighter and retiring. I hope the archives are kept alive after he closes the door but just in case I've printed off everything that Ned hasn't moved to FW.com.

oh crap i didnt know that, i really liked the kits they had

ahnyways heres what i shot tonight

 

everything pre 1:08 in the video is a 1 inch canister shell

[dynomike1]

On the last few did the camera wash the stars out? I got a lot of that with Android.

[PeteyPyro]

Rider, was that a copper ✴ at 0:30? Nice blue.

[RiderX]

On the last few did the camera wash the stars out? I got a lot of that with Android.

 

both the go pro , and the phone dont pick up the stars at distance its frustrating , those shells were mostly TT with a lil glitter thrown in so the stars are dim to begin with ,i suspect when i do colors it should pick them up better

Rider, was that a copper ✴ at 0:30? Nice blue.

not sure why those salutes at :30 and :40 showed up blue , maybe just the flash lighting up the smoke , they were just 1 inch cans with 10g 70/30 flash

 

im going to buy some real nesting hemis now , i was making my own but it takes me a while to make them , atleast for now anyways im going to save up for a pasting machine in the future

[Baldor]

 

 

one thing i noticed in the video is that it shows it as pitch black outside when actually it was still a little light out when i shot that , as u could see the siloute of the mountains in the back ground in person

To capture the fireworks, you must underexpose to avoid saturating the sensor and wash the colours. The camera has a lot less dynamic range than your eyes. So, if you want to capture the bright details, you will lose the dark details.

[RiderX]

anyone know were i can buy 1 1/4 id tubes that are atleast 8 inches long , i cant find anything longer then 6 inches , im thinking my 1inch x 2.5 shells would benefit from a slightly longer tube

[Mumbles]

This is one option. You might want to seek out uncut 4lb rocket tubes.

 

http://hobbyhorse.com/pyro_tubes.shtml

[chuckufarley]

Rider, have you tried rolling your own? After some practice, its not that hard, and you can make them any size you want

[RiderX]

This is one option. You might want to seek out uncut 4lb rocket tubes.

 

http://hobbyhorse.com/pyro_tubes.shtml

 

perfect other then being slightly expensive , will look in other places for those

Rider, have you tried rolling your own? After some practice, its not that hard, and you can make them any size you want

no i havent and seems like alot of work for a tube ill only get to shoot a few shells out of before its junk , or one time use if i make cakes out of them

[RiderX]

You can lightly stick a piece of 4 mesh screen to the patty just before cutting. This leaves a grid lightly imprinted on the surface which can be followed.

 

I've always just eyeballed them though, and they come out close enough. I like to dust the patty with screen-mixed powder when making kno3-based stars. When doing that, I flip the strips 90 degrees so the freshly cut face is oriented up toward me so I can dust that surface with more prime. I do the same when cutting the strips into cubes. Doing that lets you see your work from multiple angles so you can correct your technique if you don't like what you see.

this worked great thank you for the tip , im going to spend the week on stocking up on stars and bp , i went threw everything i had on friday , though i do still have about 20 1 inch cans leftover that i didnt shoot

 

been looking at colored star forumulas last night and today , so i think on monday im going to order up what i need + some of the good charcoal and milled potassium nitrate that was linked to me earlier in the thread

 

1/4 inch starplate is on its way , really looking forward to that should make filling shells evenly really easy

Edited August 13, 2017 by RiderX

[RiderX]

what fuels are u guys using for lampares , im going to do some 1.75 inch ones here soon

[Wiley]

Straight gas or kerosene. No need to mix in any oil or diesel. The most important thing is the burst. Pop them too hard and the fuel will burn too efficiently. It won't make a nice rolling fireball and the smoke will generally be light in color.

 

20g seems to work ok in the 1.75" ones. Don't expect much smoke from them, though.

 

100g is about right for a 4" with a 20oz bottle. Nice effect from these.

[Mumbles]

I've always liked a 50:50 mix of gasoline and kerosene personally. Straight gasoline works great too. I've never tried straight kerosene. Many petroleum based fuels will work fine though.

 

The mix that Paul Biersach touts in his "Dragon Breath" fireballs is 70% gasoline, 20% diesel, 10% methanol.

[RiderX]

thanks guys ill just use 100% gasoline

 

20 grams is what the directions say to use , man thats going to be a loud pop

ive got some 2.5 x 4.5 inch canisters coming maybe ill save some of those for some larger lampare's if i dont screw up the 1.75 ones

i have some other ideas i want to try with them though

Edited August 21, 2017 by RiderX

[RiderX]

btw i cant belive i forgot to post this soft broken 2.5 TT i did

Edited August 21, 2017 by RiderX

[RiderX]

i just picked up a wireless firing system for 150$ shipped does a total of 1200 cues , and comes with enough receivers for 36 cues , ill start buying more receivers over time

was originally going to buy one of those cheap 25$ 12 cue ones untill i came across this one

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Cues-Fireworks-Firing-Control-System-Digital-Equipment-Wedding-PROFESSIONAL/152603241464?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[MrB]

I have no opinion on if they are good, or bad. My only opinion at all is, the way you have to "switch" receiver to access more then the first 12 cues.

I'm sure it "works", i just don't want that clunky interface. I prefer a pin-board, and wired cues over that.

Ideally i would get my grabby hands on a remote controlled unit that lets you hook a PC (laptop) or an android device to it. But that is at this point, just a pipe dream.

[RiderX]

I have no opinion on if they are good, or bad. My only opinion at all is, the way you have to "switch" receiver to access more then the first 12 cues.

I'm sure it "works", i just don't want that clunky interface. I prefer a pin-board, and wired cues over that.

Ideally i would get my grabby hands on a remote controlled unit that lets you hook a PC (laptop) or an android device to it. But that is at this point, just a pipe dream.

i know somone who has experience with thees and he says its a decent system , normally it sells for 250-325$ , im aware of having to setup the receivers , will give me a good use for the label maker once i get them setup

 

as far as the pc/andriod controlled one i would love something like that as well , unfortunately thats out of my budget range

 

there is a programable ebay one but for the price i would buy something brand name instead