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Hints and tips for Australians


mike_au

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Been busy man you going to come over to pgi ? Just saying
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Well if your not busy at some time in the next few weeks (on holidays at the moment) I would be keen as to catch up man, show you my new skills! Miss seeing you around!

I would kill to go to PGI, but I have a feeling those dates are smack bang in the middle of my intensive care exams. If I find out they aren't I will be there, dead serious.If there was anything else a bit later in the year I would be keen too.

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Ausfire, I'm just south of brissy an hr.

Leedrill where have you been? Are you out of it? I miss my pyro buddy!

We should all light some fuses!

Im roughly the same from Brisbane, Wouldn't be surprised if you live just round the corner, have heard a few suspicious noises lately ;)... Im on exam block at the moment but after that ild be keen, still have most of my stuff although abit of de-caking may be required after all these years hahaha

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Ha, nothing coming from this neck of the woods- been too busy in the shop building! Nothing a few hours in the mill can't uncake and your back in business.
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  • 6 months later...

Hints and tips for Australians. Well here goes. Been about a year since I moved this hobby up to the next level. I had been making sugar rockets for quite some time, but decided there were better finales than a parachute. :-D

 

It's all out the there guys. You just need to look. I won't be spoon feeding but 99% is available domestically and the other 1% can be manufactured / synthesised / substituted / imported. I wish all Aussies (and everyone else) all the best. Just stay safe and try to attract positive attention.

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Hi Diggers,

Between DiverseHobbies and Auschems you can get almost anything you need. My KN prills and sulphur come from the rural supply store. Solvents from Bunnings. Sr and Ba carbonates from Walker ceramics.

 

My biggest setback is a bushfire season that lasts 6 months.

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  • 3 months later...

Heya!

 

I need some help finding out what is and isnt legal in the way of smoke bombs/pellets in Australia (NSW)? Iv found some premade ones online and also DIY vids and someone else on another forum gave me some formulas but I cant for the life of me work out whats legal (without a licence)??? As best as i can understand it at the moment- they all use either potassium nitrate, or chlorate. I think you need a license for potassium nitrate, is that true? what about chlorate? are there other options?

 

Im really only looking for a couple small smoke bomb effects - the pellets i found online were perfect size. Its for a stage show at a very large venue- im using laser lights and want the fog to illuminate them. I have a fog machine but the smoke bombs are a million times cooler! I have Public Liability inurance which covers fire use and the venue is fine with it as long as its legal- otherwise i need to hire a pro and i cant afford that for a couple of little smoke bombs.

 

The ones on this page are PERFECT! Can i use these in Australia?

http://www.smokemachines.net/smoke-pellets.shtml

 

Help!!?

 

Thanks!

Diesel

Edited by Dieseldarling
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  • 8 months later...

I'm not from Oz, but I can tell you that folks like Mike Swisher have taught us you can have quality tubes in NO time, rolling your own.

 

I'm a commercial user, so everything is bought, but Mike wrote some of Pyrotechnica IX and XI (if not all of it), and he inhabits Passfire.com, also.

 

Ask him.

 

Lloyd

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  • 5 weeks later...
Can you give me tips on making delay mix and then ramming and nosing it, but my blackmatch is very poor and dont what im doing wrong.
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What is your application, and whites going wrong with your black match?

 

I have had many issues with BM. I have made batches of tens of meters, only to find that it burns a few centimetres before soldering for a while, then burning a bit longer before soldering more and so on. Other batches only soldered. My issue was that I was too keen and was trying to make it too quickly with over watered slurry. Using less water and making it more slowly made a big difference.

 

I assume you want your BM good enough to ignite a rammed spollette type fuse?

 

As for your rammed delays, if you want a delay of a few seconds, you want the fastest black powder you can make. If you want a two second delay and you have powder that will only burn at 4mm/sec when rammed in a tube, you only need an 8mm thick increment, which is not as convenient or reliable as a 2cm thick charge of powder that burns at 10mm/sec.

 

If you want a long delay, like ten seconds or longer, you probably want to use a slower mix just so that you don't end up having to ram a very large number of your increments. There are many ways to get a slower mix, from using roughly mixed and relatively coarse black powder, to adding charcoal, oil, sulfur, or substances like calcium carbonate.

 

If you are ramming you are restricted by what is safe, which is why I suggest basing your slow mixes on black powder, When pressing is acceptable some slow burning coloured star mixes are popular choices.

 

Anyway, I'm not really sure what to tell you since I'm not sure what you need to know, but the basics are to get a nice thick walled tube, or make one, with an ID of a little under 1cm. You need a rod that fits snugly in to it obviously, and then you ram the powder in small increments, ideally less than the tubes ID once rammed.

 

Ram a length, measure it and time the burn. Then you will know your burn rate in millimetres per second, and can start making accurately timed delays. For practical use I like to ram a bit extra and then drill back through the extra increment a bit so that once the fire gets to your drilled back hole, there will be fire coming out both ends of the tube for a little while making ignition of the next step of the burning sequence guaranteed.

 

Nosing needs your BM to be good enough to burn without stopping. After that it is as simple as bending a section of the few in a U with the bend in contact with the surface of the rammed powder and securing it in place with paper tied closed, or just some tae.

 

Note that for fast powder, BP with a burn time of 8mm/sec is not good but is usable, 10mm/sec + is decent, and 15mm/sec is very good.

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What is your application, and whites going wrong with your black match?

 

I have had many issues with BM. I have made batches of tens of meters, only to find that it burns a few centimetres before soldering for a while, then burning a bit longer before soldering more and so on. Other batches only soldered. My issue was that I was too keen and was trying to make it too quickly with over watered slurry. Using less water and making it more slowly made a big difference.

 

I assume you want your BM good enough to ignite a rammed spollette type fuse?

 

As for your rammed delays, if you want a delay of a few seconds, you want the fastest black powder you can make. If you want a two second delay and you have powder that will only burn at 4mm/sec when rammed in a tube, you only need an 8mm thick increment, which is not as convenient or reliable as a 2cm thick charge of powder that burns at 10mm/sec.

 

If you want a long delay, like ten seconds or longer, you probably want to use a slower mix just so that you don't end up having to ram a very large number of your increments. There are many ways to get a slower mix, from using roughly mixed and relatively coarse black powder, to adding charcoal, oil, sulfur, or substances like calcium carbonate.

 

If you are ramming you are restricted by what is safe, which is why I suggest basing your slow mixes on black powder, When pressing is acceptable some slow burning coloured star mixes are popular choices.

 

Anyway, I'm not really sure what to tell you since I'm not sure what you need to know, but the basics are to get a nice thick walled tube, or make one, with an ID of a little under 1cm. You need a rod that fits snugly in to it obviously, and then you ram the powder in small increments, ideally less than the tubes ID once rammed.

 

Ram a length, measure it and time the burn. Then you will know your burn rate in millimetres per second, and can start making accurately timed delays. For practical use I like to ram a bit extra and then drill back through the extra increment a bit so that once the fire gets to your drilled back hole, there will be fire coming out both ends of the tube for a little while making ignition of the next step of the burning sequence guaranteed.

 

Nosing needs your BM to be good enough to burn without stopping. After that it is as simple as bending a section of the few in a U with the bend in contact with the surface of the rammed powder and securing it in place with paper tied closed, or just some tae.

 

Note that for fast powder, BP with a burn time of 8mm/sec is not good but is usable, 10mm/sec + is decent, and 15mm/sec is very good.

The problem with my blackmatch is that when I sure it with tape or want it to burn through a hole it just stops burning once it reaches the tape or hole, sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Yes I want to know how to makes spollettes so I can start making aerial fireworks from a black powder rocket.

 

Thanks for the info, will start rolling some spollettes, making delay mix, and testing the burn rate.

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If you use rockets to lift shells, the delay is almost always inside the rocket, and the shell is ignited with quick match from the rocket motor. This delay is made by pressing or, if safe, ramming a section of composition above the rocket fuel in the same tube before the final section of clay. a hole is drilled through this clay so that when the delay has finished burning, it will spit fire out the top of the tube to pass fire to whatever effects you want.

 

How is your Black Match when you use several strands together? It should be fast, but this is the idea. There will be times you want fire to instantly go through a hole, and a bundle of black match through the hole is the way to do it. Sometimes it is in a paper sleeve in the form of Quickmatch, and sometimes it is just a bunch of short bits of BM. It depends on your application. However you don't want it going out at the hole!

 

Even if you have every other type of fuse, Black Match is pretty much essential for priming and for Quick Match. What you have, while it can go out in some cases, may actually be ok for these things. If not, you probably do want to improve it.

 

Good luck :)

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You need to knead the black match while it is in the slurry. If you get them through too quickly only the outside gets coated and the coatings can easily flake off causing hang fires. By kneading them you force the slurry between the fibers and it makes the match much more reliable
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Thanks Seymour, I never thought to use several strands of black match, I always use to use 1 strand and it daughter worked or didn't and would get nervous when is stopped at the because I didn't know whether to relight it or leave it alone

 

And thanks taiwanluthiers I will try to knead the BP slurry into the twine to make better black match.

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  • 1 month later...
Hi all been a while since i posted. I got out of the game when my daughter was born 1yr ago. I have HEAPS of compounds to get rid of if anyone is interested? I have heaps of fine perch, nitr, visco, mgal, german dark, atomised al and heaaaaaaps more! Inbox me for details. Located Melbourne
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PM me if you don't get any offers and I'll contact a few people who may be interested, but who rarely come by these ways these days.

 

If you have any Bismuth trioxide, Antimony trisulfide, Silicon metal and maybe a few others I'm keen to get them shipped across the Tasman, or possibly picked up by a friend visiting your city to bring back in their luggage...

 

Sucks that you are getting out of the game. It sounds like you have quite a collection there including much that many people don't find easily in Australia. I'm sure you have considered keeping some of it, I'd find it hard not to.

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  • 6 months later...
They do indeed have perchlorate and chlorates. It just isnt shown openly on their website. Send them an email and the will explsin what to do and prices.
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