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OLDGUYS TRIPLE BARREL CHARCOAL RETORT DESIGN


oldguy

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Talked with a guy from Alaska today that has used a double drum wood stove to heat a hunting/fishing lodge for 8 years.

He told me for a hotter cleaner burning fire & far better wood fuel efficiency. Put a good long wide grate in the firebox barrel.

 

 

 

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Provides better air circulation around the wood fuel & you get far finer ash.

Also, using an open end bottom fire barrel with a lid & clamp ring.

You can place a longer wider grate inside the firebox from the back side.

 

Plus, it is easy to pull out the grate & clean out all the ash out the back end with a shovel.

He said with a grate, his will burn hot 8 to 10 hours on 1 good load of wood fuel.

Edited by oldguy
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FYI, I have a O/A cutting torch, electric welder, chop saw, etc.

But, I am doing this build with nothing more than a drill, bits, a saber saw with metal cutting blades & a round metal file.

The intent being ANYONE can build one with a couple simple inexpensive tools.

 

Once this one is together and fully functional. If it works as well as hoped (fingers crossed).

I would suggest anyone with a chop saw & welder use 1.5 or 2 inch heavy walled conduit or exhaust pipe for the piping.

Then simply weld the gas vent pipe plumbing togather & in place.

It would be far less expensive & much quicker to complete.

Edited by oldguy
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What did you make that handle out of? Fence post or bed post?
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What did you make that handle out of? Fence post or bed post?

 

It was some kind of schedule 40 3/4 inch OD aluminum curtain rod thing, from the metal scrap pile.

It was FREE, expedient & functions perfectly.:whistle:

Edited by oldguy
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gallery_10713_78_327703.jpg

 

Before insulation

 

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Refractory light weight grout mix

 

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Ramming grout

 

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Insulated

 

 

 

 

Edited by oldguy
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Prior to insulating the firebox drum. I mixed up a test batch, loaded / rammed a small soup can full of it & baked it in the oven, as a test.

I started it off @ 200F for awhile, then throttled the oven up to 350 - 400F. That dried the insulation out HARD as a rock.

 

The amount of water remaining in the silicate bond is governed by the temperature to which it has been exposed (assuming exposure was long enough to establish equilibrium). The temperature should be raised gradually as once the surface has skinned over, escape of residual moisture begins to be blocked. Puffing and blistering (intumescence) may occur as the retained moisture builds pressure and is expelled.

 

The temperature is preferably held first around 200˚F (below the boiling point) until all moisture that can be evaporated at that temperature has escaped. Thereafter it may be gradually raised according to the degree of dehydration required.

 

Obviously, it is not possible to fit a 55G steel drum in a normal oven. With this in mind, I placed a small ceramic electric heater inside the insulated drum for a few hours. Which I thought would work well. It did, to a degree.

 

Once the drum was heated, because it is so well insulated, the temperature inside it would rise higher than the safe operating temperature of the heater & it automatically shut off around 150F. Once it cooled down, the heater would start up again & I let it cycle like that overnight about 12 + hours.

 

Wanting the best slow cure possible, I figured a way to raise the internal temperature higher. I simply placed a Colman backpack gas stove inside the drum with a heavy steel pan on top the burner to help radiate heat. That brought the internal temp's up around 210F in short order with the drum lid slightly askew to let some heat escape .

 

You have to refuel & pump up the Colman stove about every 35 minutes. I'm going to cycle it that way several hours, until the insulation is at least hard to the touch.

 

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Then, like a dumb asz, realized I had a lab grade hot plate in the shop that would work.

Replaced coleman with this.

 

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Edited by oldguy
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gallery_10713_78_357615.jpg

 

Once the insulation firmed up hard, set the unit back up horizontal.

 

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Added a protective end skin

I left enough room to add 1/2 thick piece of fireproof backer board between the protective skin & the end of the drum.

Just haven't cut it to fit yet.

 

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Sealed w/clamp ring

Edited by oldguy
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Thanks for the kind words.

Shipping one of theses puppies complete would cost an arm & leg.

 

Hell Dag, you could build one in a heart beat. :rolleyes:

 

 

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Thanks for the kind words.

Shipping one of theses puppies complete would cost an arm & leg.

 

Hell Dag, you could build one in a heart beat. :rolleyes:

 

 

 

Naw, I have way too much on my plate right now to build a big ole retort. I'm coming down to your neck of the woods first week of June, think I could stop in and watch you make a batch?

 

-dag

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First week of June is when the snow is gone off my hvy eqt placer gold operation in Idaho.

So, more than likely, I will be there to get things operational & the crew working.

But, if that changes, you are more than welcome to drop by for a BBQ.

I can get you a free suite for a few days at a local casino, as I have comps out the ying yang.

 

Never posted a video in my life, but will figure out how .

Once this big baby is tuned in & cooking, I will post one.

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Removed the upper 45 degree elbow on the gas vent plumbing.

Replaced with a T & added a 1 inch pipe, plus another gate valve.

That way I can vent steam as it heats up & when it starts to omit flamable gas, divert the gas into the firebox drum.

A few more tweeks & she is about ready to start cooking.

 

gallery_10713_78_210595.jpg

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I have had a look at the price of these kits in the UK. You may well laugh when I tell you the cheapest was £130, that is $204US for the basic kit without barrel. Welcome to ripoff Britain!
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I have had a look at the price of these kits in the UK. You may well laugh when I tell you the cheapest was £130, that is $204US for the basic kit without barrel. Welcome to ripoff Britain!

 

That is CRAZY.:blink:

 

Do they add 300% VAT or something?

 

 

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Unfortunately no, everything you guys buy for $ we pay for at least the same number in £ sterling and often a hell of a lot more. Been looking at the price of sightron scopes in the US, try doubling the number to get the cost in £. We just get ripped off. Edited by gelamex
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Removed the upper 45 degree elbow on the gas vent plumbing.

Replaced with a T & added a 1 inch pipe, plus another gate valve.

That way I can vent steam as it heats up & when it starts to omit flamable gas, divert the gas into the firebox drum.

A few more tweeks & she is about ready to start cooking.

 

gallery_10713_78_210595.jpg

 

a friend of mine in Miami has an art gallery I showed her your master piece and she wants to put it in her lobby.She pays big bucks for retorts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Damn nice job.GOLD huh!Soon paper money will be toilet paper.Maybe 6 months maybe sooner,golds the way and silver and of course PLATINUM! jeff

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I'd love to sit down and learn a little about your mining operation one of these days OG. That's fascinating to me.
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I'd love to sit down and learn a little about your mining operation one of these days OG. That's fascinating to me.

 

I will pm you in a day or 2.

Placer gold mining is like a lost art.

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Lower drum gas jet nozzle

 

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Upper inner drum gas intake

 

About all that's left is a little tinkering & tightening here & there.

Bolt on the cast iron door..

Build a grate & split kindling.

 

Then It's burn the paint off time. :D

Edited by oldguy
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Door on

 

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Grate in through the back door.

Built from 1.5 X 1/8th inch angle iron & welded

 

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Highly recommend Imperial brand stove & gasket sealer (from Coast to Coast hardware)

Applies like about like RTV gasket silicone, with about a 90 second working time before it starts setting up.

Will withstand 2000F.

 

 

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