moondogman Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I would think the opposite, wont the gasses spend less time around the upper barrel if the flue's are in line?? no expert here!Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 I would think the opposite, wont the gasses spend less time around the upper barrel if the flue's are in line?? no expert here!Steve The amount of time flue gas spends inside the upper outer drum is controled by the damper on top the upper outer drum. I think if if the flue vents are centered on the 55G drums.It will result in direct flame hitting the center of the 30G inner drum. Rather than on one end.Centered,hot flame & heat would radiate 360 around the 30G inner drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I think that the addition of a diffuser plate right above the vent from the 55 gallon drum would even out the heat remarkably. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan999ification Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 with a small hole or two i cant wait to see this fired up dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 i cant wait to see this fired updan. You & me BOTH. It's getting closer by the hour & day.It will not be long.I just don't want to blunder in the final build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) I think that the addition of a diffuser plate right above the vent from the 55 gallon drum would even out the heat remarkably.-dag LOL, great minds often think alike. Dag, along with a baffle heat defuser plate. Do you agree with exhaust flue vents were positioned vertically in line with one another centered on the 55G drums, is the way to go? It not only take a village to raise a child. It also takes a village to build an optimal charcoal retort. Edited February 2, 2012 by oldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Another kink is if you use the cast iron support legs between the upper & lower drums.There is 4.5 inches of space between the two drums. Which is not enough room to mount either 1.5 or 2 inch pipe fittings between the two vertically. Glad I went with free standing legs, so I can adjust the height between the drums.But, no matter (to me) as I am going to mount the 1.5 inch pipe about like as shown below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) I think your original design, with the input on one end and damper on the other will be more efficient. As moondogman said, the hot gas will have to travel over the entire length of the barrel, being a more efficient heat exchanger. A spiral of some sort around your retort barrel will increase the efficiency even more, by creating a turbulent flow (reducing "skin effect"). Edited February 2, 2012 by FrankRizzo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) Frank, What if I split the difference & used duel exhaust on the top drum?I am trying to keep it simple as possible. The 80 G propane tank BBQ / Smoker I built has duel exhaust and heats evenly on both ends. Edited February 2, 2012 by oldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 That should work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Ball valves have exposed plastic seats. Which I don’t think would stand the heat & abuse. Gate valves do not have exposed seats. The only packing in WOG rated gate valves is a asbestos like material in the upper part of the valve. I believe they will stand the heat & abuse. MATCO 514T07 1.5 gate inch gate valve http://www.matco-norca.com/images/product_files/514.pdf Plumbing with 1.5 inch pipe is not exactly cheap, but not to expensive either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFeve81 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Is there a way to use the handle off the ball valve on the gate valve. Just seems like it would be easier to use if it gets hot. Nothing a good pair of gloves can't handle though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Is there a way to use the handle off the ball valve on the gate valve. Just seems like it would be easier to use if it gets hot. Nothing a good pair of gloves can't handle though. I plan on putting a differant style handle on the gate valve, so it will spin quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marks265 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Oldguy, At some point if your valving becomes a problem or if you see that you leave the valve mostly throttled to one position, you could use a pipe union that uses an orifice. This is just a washer that is inserted between the union halves. Its hole size is less than the pipe ID to control flow. Just food for thought for later. It is a cool project that you have going there! Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 I am “hoping” the valve isn’t a problem. If it is, there are a few ways to circumvent it. As you suggest to increase pressure a washer could be placed in the union. And/or a couple other measures could be taken. That issue is a “wait & see” thing. I hope to make some headway this weekend & get the fire barrel insulated, the upper outer drum, plus inner upper drum & the piping installed. Once its all together, (after a break) fire the puppy up burn off the paint. Then try an live run loaded for bear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 Didn’t get much accomplished on the triple drum charcoal retort today. To busy with SB Sunday party, I cooked BBQ,ed pork ribs, brisket & beer can chicken. Cold slaw, potato salad , Margarita/Tequila Salsa, chips & nacho cheese dip. Plus, won $100 from son-in-law who bet me against the Giants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Looks like that box steel fits pretty good to suspend the 33 gallon drum inside of the 55. I'll have to remember that one. Looking forward to your final results. I'll be interested to find out how long it takes to cook the wood to the core in such a large retort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 (edited) Looks like that box steel fits pretty good to suspend the 33 gallon drum inside of the 55. I'll have to remember that one. Looking forward to your final results. I'll be interested to find out how long it takes to cook the wood to the core in such a large retort. This pic is actually of the firebox barrel, with a 55G drum cut down skin inside it. ASAP high temp refractory insulation will be tamped / rammed in between the inner & outer skins. But, I also plan to use the same 1.5 inch mild steel square tubing to hold the 30G drum in place in the upper 55G drum.It's cheap by the foot, easy to drill nut/bolt holes in & cut in short lengths with a chop saw. Edited February 6, 2012 by oldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gelamex Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 As one of my other hobbies, I have built a furnace capable of melting Iron burning waste oil. This was built out of a stainless steel beer barrel with a liner not dissimilar to the set up you have there Oldguy. The difference with my setup was that it stood upright. Also, I insulated the gap between the inner and outer liner with vermiculite and coated the inner liner with high temperature refactory (1700 degrees C). Once fired this protected the inner steel. I don’t know if your drums are made from thicker steel over there, but leaving steel exposed to heat reduces its life considerably over here. Its just a thought that using refactory might give your inner a longer life although it does add to the final cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFeve81 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 That looks awesome!!!! The ribs that is. Really need to get/make me a good smoker. The fire drum is looking nice as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 As one of my other hobbies, I have built a furnace capable of melting Iron burning waste oil. This was built out of a stainless steel beer barrel with a liner not dissimilar to the set up you have there Oldguy. The difference with my setup was that it stood upright. Also, I insulated the gap between the inner and outer liner with vermiculite and coated the inner liner with high temperature refactory (1700 degrees C). Once fired this protected the inner steel. I don't know if your drums are made from thicker steel over there, but leaving steel exposed to heat reduces its life considerably over here. Its just a thought that using refactory might give your inner a longer life although it does add to the final cost. To increase longevity of the firebox, my plan is to simply insert an additional sheet metal skin inside it. I have the sheet metal on hand. The firebox barrel is the open ended type, with a lid & clamp ring closure. It will be easy to replace the innermost skin any time it appears ready to burn through. I had also thought about coating the inner firebox skin with a refractory grade coating. http://www.rutland.com/back/tds/document_25.pdf http://www.rutland.com/back/tds/document_22.pdf http://www.rutland.com/productinfo/black-furnace-cement.html http://www.rutland.com/back/tds/document_24.pdf But, simply replacing the inner skin as needed is easy & expedient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 I will take a pound of what ever is cooking,man thats awesome work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 It's getting sweeter, one slow step at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I like the look of that...supa sexy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) I like the look of that...supa sexy It will be "sexy", if it functions as hoped. Otherwise, it is only one hell of a big wood fired large shop heater.Which I have no serious need for. There is a clear advantage in adding sturdy taller legs.For one thing, you don't have to get on your hands & knee's to peer into the firebox. And, if you plan to move it any distance.Simply tip it over on it's back against a PU tail gate, lift it into the bed, strap it down & away you go.So, it's a lot more portable than I thought it would be. Edited February 7, 2012 by oldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts