h&k machineguns Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 That's a real nice little setup you have their HK! You're right, it is very fast. Is the up down handle an on off switch or an actual valve? A valve should give you infinate adjustability. Also, the HPU should have a relief valve built in, but generally relief valves deal with pressure more than flow. I bet a larger cylinder would go slower, but I also bet that is not a route you are interested in. All in all nice setup. It's a valve that I move up and down. I wish it would control the speed by moving it XX amount of area,compared to bumping it and it moves at almost the same speed. I can do as little as 4 oz rockets on it so far,but the slightest bump and it's already at 1750 PSI on the wolter gage. I have to be very careful to not go over that. My 1 pound rockets are even a little tough towards the top of the PSI. I do them to 3700 PSI on the gage,and the last 300 PSI is tough,but I pull it off. If the valve was slowere,it would be very easy to even do the 4 oz rockets with. I plan on adding additional Lexan to the front to cover more of the sides of the press. I'll just add an extra 1/2 thickness to the already 3/4" front. It will hang over 4 inches on the right,and about 8 on the left. The sides of the corner of the work area is 3/4" MDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cplmac Posted March 10, 2007 Author Share Posted March 10, 2007 You might be able to just swap that valve out for a better valve. 3/4" of Lexan is plenty but I guess the more the merrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 H&K, What you want is a piece of hardware called a "flow restrictor". You can pick them up from Surplus Center. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic What kind of ends does your hose have (pipe thread, JIC, O-ring BOSS, etc.)? What size are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h&k machineguns Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 You might be able to just swap that valve out for a better valve. 3/4" of Lexan is plenty but I guess the more the merrier. The primary blast if it were to happen would be were the 3/4" is now,but I need a little more on the side,so I will just bolt it to the existing stuff. It will end up making it 1.25" thick and the sides 1/2". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h&k machineguns Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 H&K, What you want is a piece of hardware called a "flow restrictor". You can pick them up from Surplus Center. http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic What kind of ends does your hose have (pipe thread, JIC, O-ring BOSS, etc.)? What size are they? I have 3/8". I wonder if it would work with it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 I have 3/8". I wonder if it would work with it?Absolutely! This one would be a better match though and offer you some adjustability (0-8GPM). The other one would work too, but you need a few adapter fittings. http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7280C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic Screw the adjustable regulator onto one of these elbow fittings and a short 3/8" nipple into the other side of the elbow: http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5502C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5404C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic The nipple will give you a little extra clearance for the width of the regulator so it can lay straight along the side of your piston and keep the hose out of the way. Your post on Passfire indicated you wanted quick-disconnects. Get another one of those 3/8" nipples, and use it to attach the female half of one of these to the bottom of the regulator; the male half screws directly onto your hose. You can also get just the male part so that you can attach one of those to your hand pump hose as well for easy switching between the two. Make sure to also get a cheap rubber plug for the QD as well; it'll keep oil from dripping all over hell when the two parts are disconnected. http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7381C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7181-FC.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cplmac Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 Nicely done Frank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 No prob. It looks like the cheaper 3/8" QD fittings I linked to are out-of-stock right now, so H&K might have to buy the more expensive Safeway branded ones. http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-1626C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h&k machineguns Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 I have 3/8". I wonder if it would work with it?Absolutely! This one would be a better match though and offer you some adjustability (0-8GPM). The other one would work too, but you need a few adapter fittings. http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7280C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic Screw the adjustable regulator onto one of these elbow fittings and a short 3/8" nipple into the other side of the elbow: http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5502C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5404C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic The nipple will give you a little extra clearance for the width of the regulator so it can lay straight along the side of your piston and keep the hose out of the way. Your post on Passfire indicated you wanted quick-disconnects. Get another one of those 3/8" nipples, and use it to attach the female half of one of these to the bottom of the regulator; the male half screws directly onto your hose. You can also get just the male part so that you can attach one of those to your hand pump hose as well for easy switching between the two. Make sure to also get a cheap rubber plug for the QD as well; it'll keep oil from dripping all over hell when the two parts are disconnected. http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7381C.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p9-7181-FC.jpghttp://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=...tname=hydraulic Thank you so much for the help. These parts are exactly what I need. I have the Surplus cataloge with me in AZ,and their prices are 60-70% cheaper than the local store,but I may go with the local store do to the conviniance and the speed of when I will have them(Hopefully today).Again,thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowcard Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Hi Guys, I'm very new here but I thought let's make a good start with showing my 5 tons Hydraulic press.When you guys see the picture I know what you're thinking, yes, that wood isn't going to hold the pressure so I'm, hopefully soon, going te replace is for some 8mm thick metal. http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5594/hpim0936ct2.jpg http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/1882/hpim0939sv1.jpg Bye, Yellowcard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hst45 Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Yellowcard, nice job. My guess is that your mission-critical elements will be : 1) The top plate. This is where the rammer will concentrate force in a) a small concentrated point, and that point will be b ) the center of the plate, which is the weakest point of the aforementioned plate. Particleboard is relatively strong in compression but weak in flexural strength, so you're going to experience failure here first. Replacing the top plate with metal or plywood will solve this. 2) I bet that the compression plate (on top of the press ram) will move somewhat from side to side, and the holes you have bored might hang-up on the allthread rod. You might glue-in PVC or similar bushings to guide the plates' upward travel. Just a pain-in-the-ass safety reminder here. You should consider adding a blast shield to the face of your press. Good luck on your rockets, have fun, and stay safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowcard Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Thanks hst45, those points you've noticed are definitly some I ame going to work on. And I know a blasting shield is a ''must'' when you're working with 5 tonnes so I'm going to get one soon.Thans for the tip with the PVC piped sliding plate.I hope I can post a pic of the new version quick. How does you press look hst45 ? Here it is, the newest version of my press ( Metal plate's are coming in a month ) http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4827/hpim0954hl4.jpg It are 3 layers op plywood (right?) and it's able to hold alot more pressure than the older version of the press. Bye, Yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Another thing that you're going to notice is that the threaded rod flexes side-to-side quite easily; this will cause bent spindles and kicked-out tooling. A blast shield will help make the frame more rigid if attached correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 This is my press. No, really it is.http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyco_1322/press4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Danny did a great job on that one didn't he. I'm glad to see it found a nice home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondo Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 my new press only cost me twice what I could have purchased it for at harbor freight, 10 dollars for the 6 inch channel iron for top and bottom, 4 pieces of angle iron at 7 bucks each, and 45 bucks to have it welded, 19 bucks for the gauge 5 for the tap so I can attach the gauge to te jack and 21 for the jack totol 128.00 hours of enjoyment Priceless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo_Tenetur Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee262/Nemo_Tenetur/IMAG0053.jpg This is my new 50 ton press, still under construction. More than 300 pound steel, with a half inch steel blasting shield. http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee262/Nemo_Tenetur/IMAG0051.jpg Left: small 6 ton bottle jack, middle: 12 ton bottle jack, right: the red monster (50 ton) http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee262/Nemo_Tenetur/IMAG0055.jpg Double-T-bar reinforced with a half inch steel. http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee262/Nemo_Tenetur/IMAG0058.jpg Three ankle irons to hold the monster ... Any comments/suggestions for improvement are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 nice press yo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pudidotdk Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I am in the procces of (but not finished with) a 10 ton press with wooden frame: http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/8794/dsc01920zh6.th.jpg Notice the layer of wood that the bottle jack stands on, this is adjustable so I don't have too put pieces of wood under whatever I want to press, when it's something small... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondo Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 I made one simular to that and used only a one ton jack, its not the tonage size of the jack that makes the press but the structure of the press to contain the force, I probably never put 1 ton of force on mine and it creaked and cracked. it will work for small 1 pound rockets and pressing BP but I think if you move the bottom up and use the holes you will crack your bottom support frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pudidotdk Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 The frame will crack if you use the wrong type of wood, like spruce, which is lightweight and soft and therefore not very useful.I use pine (at least I think it is), which is hard and dense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cplmac Posted November 17, 2007 Author Share Posted November 17, 2007 Chances are Pudi you are using Doug Fir, which is basically pink very strong pine, practically a hardwood. I'll put up a picture of my press tomorrow, I just finished building a blast shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pudidotdk Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 The color of the wood may fool you, it is treated with some chemical which makes it greener. I'm not sure exactly what kind of wood it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 I've always had a thing against the blast shields. Not in the fact that they arn't effective, or a good safety measure, but in the fact that they always have a critical safety flaw with hand pumped designs. Your hand is always in the direct path of the blast should it happen. Obviously I'd prefer to get my hand burnt up over say my face. The giant metal press posted a little bit ago got me thinking. Do you think it would compromise the integrity of Lexan to cut a groove like that in it for a pump? IF not I may just be pumping with my left hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cplmac Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 I definitely don't think that would compromise the strength of the Lexan to the extent that it wouldn't perform if a rocket blew on the press. http://pyrobin.com/files/pa280005.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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