layedbackkustomz Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hey everyone im new to the forum and this is just the topic i needed to solve the stiff bm. so what i gather is that i just need to go to a art store and buy cmc and add .5 to 1 % and leave out my dextrin. How much does cmc cost. well i have a batch of D1 stars just waiting for my hemi's to come. thanks to everyone. Rodney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrueBluePyro Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Its freakin below zero here TBP!! LOL! I cant keep the KNO3 in suspension in the cold, it needs to be 70° to keep the KNO3 from crystallizing in the tub. I will see if I can find Lloyd's pictures, I copied his method Haha, opposite here, wont be long before you walk outside and start burning. You don't have to go out and start making black match, just got a photo of it. I guess the reason you have that is just to make sure it is really coated in black powder. For me, it's the journey, not the destination. Launching the rockets sometimes makes me sad since I know that the journey is now over. I actually loose sleep the night before I make blackmatch and the like, I get so psyched up about making another part of pyro. Ha, that's good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I guess the reason you have that is just to make sure it is really coated in black powder. Nope, for me it is the problem of ensuring the burn. When I cross match time fuse, I bend both legs 90° and stuff the whole thing into a "passfire tube" to throw sparks into the center of the shell and I found that in a couple duds I had that the blackmatch failed due to the lack of saturation to the core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 With a pull method, I've never seen anyone get BP all the way to the core. This means you either have to use multiple strands of string and agglomerate them together into one strand, or kneed the BP into a higher ply cotton string. This assumes you want equal width final BM. I've never had a problem with nitrate leaching or anything, but I have had a problem with string soaking up more water than BP, so at the end the slurry is thicker than when started even if compared at the same temp. When kneeding by hand, there is no need for CMC or other gelling agents, at least to keep the BP slurry suspended. It may have lend other benefits to the final product. I've been using the BM out of 5 strand flat match for most things lately honestly. Clearly I use it as QM still fully assembled, but the match works great for crossmatching, and priming spolettes on the take fire surface. I still use my home made thick BM for nosing spolettes. I feel like the thicker match throws more fire around due to the larger gaps between the strands, and prevents the nose from "choking" the fire off. Probably not relevant, but I like it, and it gives me a chance to use up my stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrueBluePyro Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Nope, for me it is the problem of ensuring the burn. When I cross match time fuse, I bend both legs 90° and stuff the whole thing into a "passfire tube" to throw sparks into the center of the shell and I found that in a couple duds I had that the blackmatch failed due to the lack of saturation to the core. OK, so this thing is meant to get the black powder into the core of the string a little more, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Yes, that was the point but it didn't work all of the time. Like Mum said, the water would leach out leaving the string dry in spots. I had to change my method after finding white core around 3/4 the way through a batch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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