dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I am making some Farfalle (Butterfly) tooling for small shells (3" ID shell hold 12) and made a couple extras while I was at it. These are made to hold 7/16" X 1-1/2" long red tubes I have for sale and are shown below. I am gauging the desire for the tooling sets, tubes or both combined in a kit along with step by step instructions on how to make a 3" Farfelle shell from start to finish. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Sweeeet, one of my all time favorite effects. I'm interested! Can we see a video or picture of some of these in action? I've never made them, do you ram them dry or press them damp like a comet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 i am interested as well, also one of my favotite insert effects Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) I'd buy a set and tubes, & instructions if you'll let me. Edited December 16, 2011 by warthog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Sweeeet, one of my all time favorite effects. I'm interested! Can we see a video or picture of some of these in action? I've never made them, do you ram them dry or press them damp like a comet? I am still getting the last word on comp for the inserts but it looks as if the original comp was straight forward BP plus 10-20% Fe but people have been using 10-20% Ti in past years to get the bright butterfly effect. I am using -350 atomized aluminum in mine for a more subtle effect and will then use Ti for shells that I display publicly. They are pressed or rammed dry with no binder to speak of with a clay increment, four increments of comp and one increment of clay to top them off. In mine, I will be using an increment of flash on top and will glue in a disk to seal them up so that they pop at the end of their flight. What would you think about a kit with 100 tubes, a 7/16" flat rammer, the base with drill guide and instructions? -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I don't think you need instructions unless you plan to sell them elsewhere online besides pyro discussion boards. I'm not sure what kind of disclaimer you might need to cover yourself if you're selling to just anyone and giving instruction. I guess plenty of other people do it just fine. Sounds good though. I would be glad to do a little demo for you if you do set up a site or something to peddle your pyro wares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) I don't think you need instructions unless you plan to sell them elsewhere online besides pyro discussion boards. I'm not sure what kind of disclaimer you might need to cover yourself if you're selling to just anyone and giving instruction. I guess plenty of other people do it just fine. Sounds good though. I would be glad to do a little demo for you if you do set up a site or something to peddle your pyro wares. Nope, sales only to my pyro buddies here. Not online and not Passfire. But demos are good -dag Edited December 16, 2011 by dagabu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Hi dagI use hot 75/15/10 willow bp with 10% ti-sponge. My drilling jig does 1/2" id farfalles and hummers, its effective but not pretty The farfalle guide (at the bottom) has a central 3mm hole and the hummer guide (at the top) has an offset 2.5mm hole, The hi tech hairband keeps pressure on the tube while the holes are drilled.http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/farfalleandhummertool.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Hi dagI use hot 75/15/10 willow bp with 10% ti-sponge. My drilling jig does 1/2" id farfalles and hummers, its effective but not pretty The farfalle guide (at the bottom) has a central 3mm hole and the hummer guide (at the top) has an offset 2.5mm hole, The hi tech hairband keeps pressure on the tube while the holes are drilled.http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/farfalleandhummertool.jpg Col, Are you drilling them before or after you fill them? The jig I made is for drilling them right after the plug is pressed then a strand of black match is inserted and the comp is pressed on top. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I do it the same way. Clay plug in first, then drill the hole. I tend to make a load of drilled cases with bottom plugs in and then fill them all, its less tedious than switching from drilling to filling Here`s a test i did, not great camera work but it fizzed nice for 1" of comp.http://youtu.be/DEpzHCY9F-I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Dag - Instructions may not be necessary, you just gave them in this thread. The tooling and tubes (or a source for the tubes) would be all I would need. I've had in mind using FeTi or steel to make a gold farfalle ring with purple stars for the guy that owns the company I shoot for (not in a public display, obviously) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsroom Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I think the end tool will be nicely done as well as easy to use.............Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) nevermind Edited December 16, 2011 by warthog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) . Edited December 16, 2011 by NightHawkInLight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) no worries, thanks. Edited December 16, 2011 by warthog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I am making some Farfalle (Butterfly) tooling for small shells (3" ID shell hold 12) and made a couple extras while I was at it. These are made to hold 7/16" X 1-1/2" long red tubes I have for sale and are shown below. I am gauging the desire for the tooling sets, tubes or both combined in a kit along with step by step instructions on how to make a 3" Farfelle shell from start to finish. -dagI thought the hole or vents went straight through the center of the tube,FARFELLE/buttery fly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) I thought the hole or vents went straight through the center of the tube,FARFELLE/buttery fly Ahhhh, you are correct sir, the holes may be in the center or the end or the top but with the holes in the bottom as such, you can make the Farfalle to report like TR makes. If the holes are centered, there is no space to put the report and they have to be longer for a longer effect. Keep in mind that these are for small shells, a 1/2" tube 3" with a centered hole is good for larger shells. Also, I keep the tube inside the fixture until they are complete less the report, the fixture serves as the drill guide as well. What do you all think about this:A bag of 100+ tubes, the base, the rammer and shipping all for $30.00?* I have plenty of the tubes so they will be around for a while. Extra bags of tubes for $7.00 a bag. -dag *USA only via USPS flat rate boxes. Edited December 16, 2011 by dagabu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheArchitect23 Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 30 sounds fair in my opinion. Write me up for a set with 2 bags of tubes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 30 sounds fair in my opinion. Write me up for a set with 2 bags of tubes Let me get this over to the AGORA first please, I need to follow the rules here Is there any more interest? I only have so much material available and don't want to over manufacturer them. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) pm'd By the way, why is it that there is a slit up each side of the sleeve instead of just a hole large enough for the match? Doesn't the tube want to push out through the crack? Edited December 16, 2011 by NightHawkInLight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 30 is a very fair price, i am in - however if there is more interest than material or time, i will back out so someone else can use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 pm'd By the way, why is it that there is a slit up each side of the sleeve instead of just a hole large enough for the match? Doesn't the tube want to push out through the crack? If you press too hard then the tube will poke out the slits but the purpose is to allow for ramming the plug, drill the hole, insert a section of blackmatch, press in the comp, plug and then press the whole finished insert out of the fixture. I am sure there other ways to do this but i like the system I have for making them but I certainly will make them without slots and just drill the cross hole(s) anywhere anybody wants along the fixture. Just tell me how you want yours made and I will do that. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Oh duh, the way I was thinking you wouldn't be able to remove it after the fuse is pressed in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheArchitect23 Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Looks like to me slits is the way to go, plug then fuse, comp, plug. Remove. The fuse can't slide out without the slits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Looks like to me slits is the way to go, plug then fuse, comp, plug. Remove. The fuse can't slide out without the slits. Yup, and if you dont want to drill, just a sharp awl and poke a hole through the tube, turn 180° and poke the other side. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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