Col Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I just give the spindle a quick wipe with a soft cloth after each motor but it`ll be interesting to see if graphite makes the job easier.I think the clay nozzle provides the lions share of the grip on the spindle and it knocks the shine off, so i may look into going nozzleless in the new year to remove the abrasion factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebird Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 There are a few sprays out there that help a lot one is Sail coat. Then the other I have not tried but hear it works well and is easy to find and much cheaper is Jigaloo. I think that is close to the right spelling . Can find it at Maynard's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 No metal in the mix just a reasonable slowish not too hot BP for this size motor, I did not stike the spindle as I was already at the top of the spindle and had just gone to a solid ram with a 3/4 ID raise above the sindle I guess its like," I took up sky diving years ago,at one jump after talking shit before a drop a guy said "hell if you aint had a malfunction your odds are in your favor to have one on your next jump",?If you figure out what he meant then you know your that much closer to have a engine pop the next time you ram one,didnt stop anyone from jumping doubt if it will anyone ramming,shit people die every minute from car crashes but we still drive,not making light of your accident which would open anyones eyes but.............................................................................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I just give the spindle a quick wipe with a soft cloth after each motor but it`ll be interesting to see if graphite makes the job easier.I think the clay nozzle provides the lions share of the grip on the spindle and it knocks the shine off, so i may look into going nozzleless in the new year to remove the abrasion factor. After Firebird got a special spindle I looked into Navel Bronze for materials and thanks to a good friend, I have a 1# & 2# navel bronze spindle that does not need any lube no matter the nozzle material. It is ridiculously expensive but I have never found a better material for rockets. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Now that you mentioned that col, I've heard more than one person say that after they press the nozzle they give the spindle a quarter turn to break it loose. After that the finished rocket comes off much easier. I'd imagine that nozzle materials with coarse particles like grog might hold on tighter to the spindle in addition to the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) I always press the nozzle in one lump, i guess a largish clay increment is likely to grip the spindle tighter than a small one. I could break the spindle loose after pressing the clay but the finished motor breaks loose easy enough with a turn or two of the nut. My press can be a bit temperamental, a quarter.turn post nozzle pressing could mess with the spindle alignment Edited January 1, 2012 by Col Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 vegetable oil,pops right out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 With the tradeoff of lower performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gelamex Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Would Molybdenum as used in coating bullets be any good for coating the spindle to ease extraction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Would Molybdenum as used in coating bullets be any good for coating the spindle to ease extraction? vegetable oil so simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gelamex Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Applying Moly only requires a large jar, some stainless steal BB's and a pinch of Moly powder. I believe the coating on the spindle should last a wee while. Anyway, it was just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Short5 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Applying Moly only requires a large jar, some stainless steal BB's and a pinch of Moly powder. I believe the coating on the spindle should last a wee while. Anyway, it was just a thought.I tried applying it using the method I use for applying it to copper clad bullets for reloading. This involves adding molly to corn cob polishing media in a vibrating case polisher. The molly did not stick to my stainless spindle in the time I allowed. I need a bigger vibrator bucket to really get the whole spindle floating in the media but that aside I suspect molly may not stick to polished stainless steel. It would certainly stick to brass and if not perfect would still make for a much less "sticky" spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Hi, I hope I'm not Hijacking this thread... I just signed up, and need to reply to a thread before I can start one. I have turned my own core burner rocket tool, for a 1" ID rocket. The business end of the core is .5", and tapers to .18" at the top in 6". I usually press about 1" of nozzle, and the rest BP (75/15/10, Willow charcoal). The probelm I'm having is every attempt has ended in a CATO. Most never even produce thrust before they burst. I don't have any method of measuring press pressure, but I'm using a 6ton hydrolic press. I have an aluminum sleve that I clamp arroung the tube (Parallel wound). Any suguestions on what I'm doing wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFeve81 Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Hi, I hope I'm not Hijacking this thread... I just signed up, and need to reply to a thread before I can start one. I have turned my own core burner rocket tool, for a 1" ID rocket. The business end of the core is .5", and tapers to .18" at the top in 6". I usually press about 1" of nozzle, and the rest BP (75/15/10, Willow charcoal). The probelm I'm having is every attempt has ended in a CATO. Most never even produce thrust before they burst. I don't have any method of measuring press pressure, but I'm using a 6ton hydrolic press. I have an aluminum sleve that I clamp arroung the tube (Parallel wound). Any suguestions on what I'm doing wrong? Haven't moved into big rockes myself yet but you might try adding more charcoal to the mix to cool it down some. Don't know if that will help though. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Haven't moved into big rockes myself yet but you might try adding more charcoal to the mix to cool it down some. Don't know if that will help though. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in. Thanks, I will try that, I know my BP is pretty hot, but I didn't think it was to hot for rockets. I'm thinking it's my press presure (too light?). But if the cooler bp works that would be ok as long as I can still lift a shell with it. I'l post my results after my cooler bp test. If anyone has any other ideas I'd appreciate hearing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 It's the fuel. Core burners typically use a cooler fuel. Full strength BP is typically reserved for end burners. You may also want to try pressing the cored rockets without any nozzle. Hot BP may work without the clay. Normally the fuel started with is 60 - KNO3, 30 - Charcoal, 10 - Sulfur. Changing the ratio of KNO3:C closer to BP will make it hotter if the standard isn't quite there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 It's the fuel. Core burners typically use a cooler fuel. Full strength BP is typically reserved for end burners. You may also want to try pressing the cored rockets without any nozzle. Hot BP may work without the clay. Normally the fuel started with is 60 - KNO3, 30 - Charcoal, 10 - Sulfur. Changing the ratio of KNO3:C closer to BP will make it hotter if the standard isn't quite there. Thanks a bunch!! I'll mix some new fuel and press one out tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Yup the Fuel!!! Just took some meal-D and added 15% additional charcoal, and off it went. Real strong launch, but short burn, only got about 500'. I'll have to slow it down a bit more. Thanks for the direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 New question. I just pressed another rocket. Same fuel as last two, but this time it burned more like a fountian Lots of sparks and flame but no thrust. I just swapped in a 12ton jack on my press, and am sure I pressed this motor harder then the last. Would over pressing cause this? I'm going to try another with the 6ton jack and see if I still have the problem, but I wont be able to get to it for a few days. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 New question. I just pressed another rocket. Same fuel as last two, but this time it burned more like a fountian Lots of sparks and flame but no thrust. I just swapped in a 12ton jack on my press, and am sure I pressed this motor harder then the last. Would over pressing cause this? I'm going to try another with the 6ton jack and see if I still have the problem, but I wont be able to get to it for a few days. Thanks I don't think you can press a rocket too hard, I have pressed a 3/4" ID rocket to 32,000LPI accidentally as i still had the pressure set for a BP puck and it flew the same as the others. -dag/no SOPA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justhininabouti Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) I don't think you can press a rocket too hard, I have pressed a 3/4" ID rocket to 32,000LPI accidentally as i still had the pressure set for a BP puck and it flew the same as the others. -dag/no SOPA! Boy do I feel stupid!!! I grabbed my container of Willow Star Mix not the rocket fuel. On the up side, the willow looks good. Thanks dagabu Edited January 19, 2012 by justhininabouti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Boy do I feel stupid!!! I grabbed my container of Willow Star Mix not the rocket fuel. On the up side, the willow looks good. Thanks dagabu LOL! You are not the first to do that! I bet it looked great though. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackthumb Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Still regulate my BP with my abundance of cedar/pine sawdust....at least 60 mesh....8:1 works well for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFeve81 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Just a quick question that's probably been answered a million times. What size rocket will lift a 3" shell? Standard core burner. 1 lb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
californiapyro Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 definitely a 1 lb, probably an 8 oz if you really take it to the edge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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