Updup Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 (edited) Yes, a three inch shell should be top fused. To attach the quick match you run it down the side of your shell (glue it or somthing) and cut a small slit in your lift cup, then remove some of the paper on the QM and slide it in the slit in to your lift powder. Just a question, if you are making a three inch double break, haven't you launched a single break before? And if so, you do know how to put the basics together, right? And if you think the QM hooks up to the spolette in some way, it dosn't, the QM lights the lift and the lift lights the spolette. Good luck Edited November 19, 2009 by Updup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 And if you think the QM hooks up to the spolette in some way, it dosn't, the QM lights the life and the lift lights the spolette. I think you are still thinking ball shell here. Canister shells are normally fused from the top and run down the side to the lift charge that is built in to the bottom. Here is a good picture of the stick holding the blackmatch for the second stage. See how much BM there is? D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Honestly, I would use time fuse. Yes, I know, unpure, unpure!! Time fuse is so easy to work with and is easy to use, it can easily be slipped into a tube for spiking (or just spike carefully) and take fire very well when properly primed. Good luck!D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usatrapper Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Ok I dont think people are understanding me... I know that quickmatch ignites the lift.... And I know it needs to be top fused.. how to I attach the quickmatch to the spolette on the top of the shell so that the quick match ignites the spolette and lift , thus breaking the first shell which ignites the spolete for the second shell..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 There are two ways to do this. The traditional, and slightly less tha traditional. I use the slightly less than traditional. This skylighter article does a pretty good job. It also shows a slightly less involved BM priming method. http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_...le.asp?Item=113 The more traditional method is related to that. A piece of quickmatch is ran from the bottom of the shell up to the spolette, and tied to the spolette so there is an inch or so of BM sticking up in the air. Then the bucket as describe in the article is tied to the base of the spolette. A second piece of quickmatch is placed in the bucket and tied off. To me two pieces is just asking for failure. You may also want to invest in Pyrotechnica 9 and 11, which are collectively known as the Fulcanelli Articles. They are an absolute treasure with regard to canister shell construction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usatrapper Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 There are two ways to do this. The traditional, and slightly less tha traditional. I use the slightly less than traditional. This skylighter article does a pretty good job. It also shows a slightly less involved BM priming method. http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_...le.asp?Item=113 The more traditional method is related to that. A piece of quickmatch is ran from the bottom of the shell up to the spolette, and tied to the spolette so there is an inch or so of BM sticking up in the air. Then the bucket as describe in the article is tied to the base of the spolette. A second piece of quickmatch is placed in the bucket and tied off. To me two pieces is just asking for failure. You may also want to invest in Pyrotechnica 9 and 11, which are collectively known as the Fulcanelli Articles. They are an absolute treasure with regard to canister shell construction. Ok thank you! thats what i neeeded to se.. So I am going to scracth up the bp on the top of the spolette tie a coupple strands of BM to it, cut a slit in my quickmacth and stick them inside and tape it all up.. This will be so that the quickmatch comes down.. ignites the spolette and then the lift.. Do I have it right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Yes sir. I like to reinforce the leader with a bit of strapping tape so that I can reliably use the leader to lower the shell. I put a piece of tape over the leader right where it meets the junction of the shell and the spolette. The tape is long enough to go down the sides of the shell a couple of inches. I then use 2 turns of strapping tape around the sides of the shell to reinforce this restraint. You should be able to hold the shell up by the leader. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 (edited) Got to it before I did.... My two cents worth:I would also recommend to puncture relatively small [1/8"] hole in the paper encasing around the QM/BM/spollete get-together. This just ensures that the spollete does not get "blown blind" by the explosive QM burn rate. It slightly slows the QM and enables more heat to build up inside the enclosure thus furthere ensuring your spollete igniting. Edited November 20, 2009 by Ventsi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usatrapper Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Thanks everyone for helping me out.. I hope to have this shell in the air at some point next week, ill video record it and show you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Updup Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Thanks everyone for helping me out.. I hope to have this shell in the air at some point next week, ill video record it and show you guys. Great, i can't wait to see how it works Also, be sure and write down what you did to put it together. Kind of sucks when you can't remember how many grams of lift you put in it when it works so well. Cheers, Updup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PyroMan Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 (edited) It's simply just a time delay before ignition of some device. I always use spolettes because I think they work better than visco. They hold up better against the pull of the spiking too, which is important. You're gonna have to do some experimenting here. For me an inch lasts about 3 seconds. It will depend on the burn rate of your bp. Hi Mate! Hi, Im really Newbie there and in pyro... But can someone Give me a good size of a spolette tube for 3 Inches or 4 Inches Aerial Shells ( wall thickness / Internal Diameter / length )... Thanks For your time! Edited September 21, 2010 by PyroMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Updup Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Hi Mate! Hi, Im really Newbie there and in pyro... But can someone Give me a good size of a spolette tube for 3 Inches or 4 Inches Aerial Shells ( wall thickness / Internal Diameter / length )... Thanks For your time! I would think mabye a 1/4" ID should work fine... length you'll have to do some testing with, as it honestly depends on the speed of your black powder (You wan it to take 2-3 seconds to burn through), and then you should make the tube a little longer than the depth of BP you find you need (Make sure you blackmatch or put prime of the ends of the spolette). Also, just make sure the tube is thick enough to withstand ramming, and spiking, then you should be good [= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Up answered pretty well. I would say you want a spolette to be about 2" long for a 3" shell, and 2-3" long for a 4". You want the tube to be long enough to reach into the shell far enough to tie on a passfire tube which will lead to the direct center of the shell, and also be long enough to stick outside of the shell a good 3/4". In shells so small as 3-4", a passfire from the end of the spolette may not be necessary, since it should end up close to the center of the shell without one. It will provide a slightly stronger break however if you at least fill the empty portion of the spolette tube with black match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I tend to use 1/4 to 5/16" ID tubes, about .5" OD, and 2.5" long. I can press them without a sleeve they are so strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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