Ruby red and Emerald green

[Miech]

I don't even bother drying chemicals in an oven when I'm going to bind them with water. The chemicals will get wet anyway when you bind them. Magnesium compositions are the only thing I would dry chemicals for, but I rarely use magnesium as I think it is insufficient resistant to most crap in stars and such.

 

I use a syringe to measure the exact amount of water added to the composition, and this gives very reproducable results. I usually make notes on how much wetting a certain composition needs, and use slightly more than the minimum amount needed. When pumping stars under slight pressure you can use significantly less water then when cutting or rolling them. Stars of a 10 millimeter size are usually totally dry in 2 to 3 days drying at room temperature, but charcoal streamers usually take up a week.

[qwezxc12]

I don't even bother drying chemicals in an oven when I'm going to bind them with water....snip

 

That is true, however you may find that drying your chems is in order if you need to mill them to a finer consistency...milling damp nitrates cake up my mill jars and/or clog up the coffee grinder, so drying is sometimes in order. Most of my Strontium Nitrate is table salt consistancy (and feels quite damp), so it gets a dry before it gets milled. I will also dry my chems when using other binder systems (Resorcinol Resin/Alcohol with Mg comps or Parlon/MEK for Go-getters)... Not that it applies, but I also 'dry' my Acetone/MEK with molecular sieves.

[Yankie]

Is it possible to replace the MgAl with just Aluminium powder, Would 200 mesh granular be too coarse?

how necessary is the KClO4, Would adding a bit extra of the Ba/Sr nitrate work?

[tentacles]

Straight Ba/Sr nitrate colors never seem to be as intense as ones with a bit of KClO3/4.. Aluminum will not produce the intense colors that you're looking for, if there's any color it will be washed out compared to MgAl or Mg.

[gomis]

I do not agree. The deepest colors you can get is with the Sr/Ba nitrate plus high parlon content and Mg. Magnalium or kclo4 will start washing out the color.

 

Is it true that very well ball milled the components avoid the ash formation in the ruby red and emerald gree?? I just mix the checmicals with fine screens, but did not ball milled them. Can you report the solution to the incandescent ash formation while burning the star in the sky??

[jacob]

Is it possible to replace the MgAl with just Aluminium powder, Would 200 mesh granular be too coarse?

how necessary is the KClO4, Would adding a bit extra of the Ba/Sr nitrate work?

 

I doubt that will give good results, but here's a formula you could try that uses those chems, from Passfire, Baechle System 6: Red.

 

Strontium Nitrate 60

 

Parlon 18

 

Aluminum, atom, spher, 120-325 mesh, 20 micron 12

 

Sulfur 4

 

Charcoal Airfloat 4

 

Red Gum 2

 

Notes.

"Mofidfied from original formula by Troy Fish published in Pyrotechnica VII. Dampen comp with acetone or mixture of acetone and alcohol."

 

Here's another one you could try if you have some fine AL.

 

Independence Red #4

 

Strontium Nitrate 62

 

Saran Resin 14

 

Aluminum, flake, dark, German Blackhead. 3 micron 13

 

Parlon 7

 

Red Gum 6

 

Dextrin 5

 

Boric Acid 1

 

Good luck.

[Yankie]

I have decided not to risk inferior colours and buy some KClO4 and MgAl.

[gomis]

The Baechel formula is modified from Troy Fish. Where used Al, u can replace it with Mg/Al as indicates Fish.

 

There are some points that help to reduce the ash production:

 

- KCLO4 reduce the ash production (stated by Shimizu)

- Red Gum helps the burning of KCLO4 and is a system containing Alcohol, will help to bind the stars too.

- Parlon generates also ash, so a moderate use is better (no more than 18%)

 

Im trying to increase in the ruby red formula the content of red gum up to 8% and bind with 75 alcohol - 25 water. So less moisture will affect the sr nitrate...

[Mumbles]

I've replaced all the Dextrin with RG on multiple occasions in these, and they work fine. I did bind with denatured alcohol though. It still absorbs water from the air over time though.

[gomis]

I was thinking some way to protect or "coat" the sr nitrate with solved parlon in MEK... i have milled the sr nitrate along with parlon and was thinkin to add some MEK while ball milling... will do something? maybe after that sr nitrate will nor absorve so much water in the star roller process...

[tentacles]

gomis: Sure will do something - coat your media in a parlon/Sr nitrate goo... and probably destroy your mill jar as well, unless it's stainless steel or Kynar or something.

[gomis]

ok... so try u first and let me know the results.

[gomis]

Tentacles.... it is amazing what u can find in google after thinking that u are not right just coz somenone it seemed to have the true....

 

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention according to one aspect relies upon the presence in a primer composition of a hygroscopic oxidizer which is combined with waterproofing vapour barrier material to protect the oxidizer from undue absorption of atmospheric water vapour. A preferred oxidizer is potassium nitrate (KNO3), which is coated with nitrocellulose, as a preferred coating material to protect the KNO3 from its hygroscopic nature. Sufficient nitrocellulose coating is provided to ensure that the performance of KNO3 as an oxidizer is not degraded by the presence of water that would otherwise be absorbed by the KNO3 from the environment. Other oxidizers susceptible to moisture absorption, e. g. strontium nitrate S (N03) 2 can be similarly protected.

[FrankRizzo]

Tentacles.... it is amazing what u can find in google after thinking that u are not right just coz somenone it seemed to have the true....

 

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention according to one aspect relies upon the presence in a primer composition of a hygroscopic oxidizer which is combined with waterproofing vapour barrier material to protect the oxidizer from undue absorption of atmospheric water vapour. A preferred oxidizer is potassium nitrate (KNO3), which is coated with nitrocellulose, as a preferred coating material to protect the KNO3 from its hygroscopic nature. Sufficient nitrocellulose coating is provided to ensure that the performance of KNO3 as an oxidizer is not degraded by the presence of water that would otherwise be absorbed by the KNO3 from the environment. Other oxidizers susceptible to moisture absorption, e. g. strontium nitrate S (N03) 2 can be similarly protected.

 

 

Sorry Gomis, Tentacles is correct. Nitrocellulose is a friable (crushable, easily shattered) material when coated in a thin layer. Parlon does not have the same properties as it is a rubber. You will indeed end up with a gooey mess. Also, just because there is a patent on an idea does not mean is either feasible or even that it works.

 

However, there are many formulas that include parlon, designed to take advantage of that gooey property. These comps are usually over-wet with solvent (acetone, MEK, etc.) and then poured/extruded into a suitable mold. This enables you to use moisture sensitive fuels (like magnesium) or oxidizers (like strontium nitrate). Search for "go-getter" compositions.

[gomis]

I was giving just an idea. I was not saying to use Parlon; just the idea of coating the sr nitrate in order to protect it agains humidity...

[gomis]

HI,

 

Back to the ruby red and emeral green, I have been testing these formulations... afer long period of drying.... and the color due to the long time under humidity has been whased out. These type of formulations, dampened with water, are quite affected by humidity, damaging the compounds. The color has been affected and now in some cases after one week drying is a pale red or pink. Compositions with sr carbonate are the only solution for getting a decent color with fast drying times. These only improvement for sr carbonate compositions could be the addition of passivated Mg. In this case, we would avoid the formation of Al oxide, improving the color quality. Adding a 0,5% of cryolite improves a littel bit the color.

[Mumbles]

There is definitely something wrong with your proceedures or chemicals if they're being washed out. I have stars several years old that still burn as red as a baboon's ass. I have noticed that after a few months in summer humidity they begin to burn slower, but certainly very red.

 

MgO is just about as detrimental as Al2O3 in terms of washing colors out. That is in part what the chlorine donors are for. The chlorides of the metals are not nearly as strong emitters. And cryolite? are you serious? It's a sodium compound. I'd be suprised if you could get anything but lime, orange, or yellow.

[gomis]

Just try to put 0,5% and let me know if Im serious or not... The addition of such small percentage gives a tone like traffic lights or the fog red lights of cars.

[PyroMan LTU]

Hello,

 

I wodered what solvent can I use for these stars:

 

SrNO3 - 55

sugar - 10

Mg uncoated - 18

PVC - 17

Dextrine - 5

 

I have some good isopropyl alcohol, and I want to use it. If I can what consentracion sould I use? Need a fast awneser, Thank you.

[h0lx]

As it has dextrin in it, use water. Worried about the uncoated Mg though.

[PyroMan LTU]

alright, thank you.

[GraafVaag]

Better idea: don't make that mixture. Instead, make this one:

55.00 Strontium nitrate

28.00 Magnesium

17.00 PVC

 

This will make a terrific red. Sugar is for making your tea taste better, not for pyro.

 

It is best to bind this using NC laquer since you will need no water. Red gum and alcohol is also a possibility. You can prime them with a meal dusting, they ignite pretty easily.

[Richtee]

Better idea: don't make that mixture. Instead, make this one:

55.00 Strontium nitrate

28.00 Magnesium

17.00 PVC

 

This will make a terrific red. Sugar is for making your tea taste better, not for pyro.

 

It is best to bind this using NC laquer since you will need no water. Red gum and alcohol is also a possibility. You can prime them with a meal dusting, they ignite pretty easily.

 

In the same vein... I have pared down the green with the same binding- and it works well- to:

 

Barium nitrate...................50

Potassium perchlorate........20

Parlon...............................20

Magnalium (-325 mesh)..... 10

[PyroMan LTU]

thanks, GraafVaag, I have tried It allready it was perfect: (10mm cut)

 

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k424/fa...ancasterred.jpg

 

I have made the one bach right now with sugar it strobes... Richtee your green looks good, I have my own

 

Ba(NO3)2 - 60

Mg - 20

PVC - 20

 

it works perfect: (22mm comet)

 

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k424/fa...astergreen2.jpg

 

And one question: why my win #20 glitters when not dry and burns fast quite fast when dry, I use "czort" mgal wich is said to be less than 70microns, dust.

I use 25% alcohol and add to comp around 15%. thank you!

Edited December 4, 2008 by PyroMan LTU

[Miech]

It's probably your charcoal which isn't fine enough. I've experienced the same problem with charcoal streamers. A 5/8" cubic star burned in half a second when lit on one corner, while I expected 4 seconds minimum. The only difference was that the charcoal in this star was -80 +120 mesh instead of airfloat. Try milling the composition together without metals and oxidizers for an hour at least.

 

Edit: This is the wrong topic for this actually...

Edited December 4, 2008 by Miech