oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 was there any documentation of this in any way? ive been looking but i cant seem to be able to find anything about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 was there any documentation of this in any way? ive been looking but i cant seem to be able to find anything about it Sorry, it was in a PM with Swede, 6-27-10. He was encouraging me to get a Harbor Freight spot welder, not knowing I had already gotten one a couple years earlier . WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrojig Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Sorry, it was in a PM with Swede, 6-27-10. He was encouraging me to get a Harbor Freight spot welder, not knowing I had already gotten one a couple years earlier . WSM Ah, good to know that harbor freight one does work( the one that Swede speaks of ) ... I had my doubts as well. I will have to continue to search for a cheap fix at the moment. I wonder if I am to use a Tig , Wont it get too hot? It requires a longer duration of a weld v.s. mig or spot. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Tig is by far cooler then Mig in the same application and Mig requires an immense amount of heat to melt the wire in a manner that will give a usable weld. Tig welding can be done on soda cans without *burning through. Spot welding is the least invasive (heat wise) and is used in the auto industry because of the lack of metal growth (warp). Anybody with an old car or truck that wants to replace rust-through will have a spot welder because even Tig welding will heat the base metal up too much and cause warp. Frankly, if you have access to all forms of metal welding, a spot welder is going to cost less then a single 5# spool of Ti wire for the Mig welder and there is no way that you could lay a good bead down with a Mig shooting Titanium wire without a trailing gas device or a flood cabinet (my preference). Mig can make great spot welds if the amperage is high enough and a good spray arc is achieved and it lies on the surface with little base penetration. (I hold six certificates in welding and hold a Mil Spec Cert as well for mild steel and 6061 T-6 aluminum.) *high frequency with a 1/16" air-gap -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) Tig is by far cooler then Mig in the same application and Mig requires an immense amount of heat to melt the wire in a manner that will give a usable weld. Tig welding can be done on soda cans without *burning through. Spot welding is the least invasive (heat wise) and is used in the auto industry because of the lack of metal growth (warp). Anybody with an old car or truck that wants to replace rust-through will have a spot welder because even Tig welding will heat the base metal up too much and cause warp. Frankly, if you have access to all forms of metal welding, a spot welder is going to cost less then a single 5# spool of Ti wire for the Mig welder and there is no way that you could lay a good bead down with a Mig shooting Titanium wire without a trailing gas device or a flood cabinet (my preference). Mig can make great spot welds if the amperage is high enough and a good spray arc is achieved and it lies on the surface with little base penetration. (I hold six certificates in welding and hold a Mil Spec Cert as well for mild steel and 6061 T-6 aluminum.)*high frequency with a 1/16" air-gap -dag Hey Dag, that's good to know. We need to talk at PGI ! More good news! I got an ad from Harbor Freight today with a coupon for the spot welder (either voltage) and the price is $149.99!!! PM me and I'll send a pdf of the coupon . The coupon is good till 8-10-11 . WSM Edited August 5, 2011 by WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 WSM, introduce me to this Majdali character, I would like to see the SBR set for myself. Will the guy with the fishing vest be hanging around him this year? -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 WSM, introduce me to this Majdali character, I would like to see the SBR set for myself. Will the guy with the fishing vest be hanging around him this year? -dag Hi Dag, Steve spends a lot of time in the rocket manufacturing area. Who knows about the fisherman? (he gets around ). Is Chris going to make it? WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 i just cut my MMO, and i gotta say, i really suck at cutting straight with a plasma cutter!i even maganged to stuff up the spot weld on one, and now its crooked by about ~10 degrees.it looks like i have some grinding to do before the MMO is suitable for selling also, i just looked at my new anode, and then at my HDPE jar, and the anode is bigger than the jar looks like i will have to make one form pvc which i dont mind as much as i did before, now that its my only option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I was talking with Chris earlier today, and he said he wouldn't be making it. Next year for sure though. We all should have a good APC meet and greet. It will actually be close to the 10 year anniversary of me being a mod here, plus the impending apocalypse, so we can find something to celebrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdfbq Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 My little contribution.When you dont want or can not spot weld you can do it as follows.I cut very small Ti strips (like a nail), and clamped my anode between the shaft and a small Ti plate. Just bended the nails and then pressed it in my vice. This one did 20 ampere with no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 nah, im good with welding, its the plasma cutting im no good at. next time, when i cut my other sheet, ill use some wheels and a guide, or some controlled method of moving it.i made only 1 mistake with spot welding, but i did it in a rush, so what do you expect!.im sure though, since the other one is still in good nick, people will still buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I was talking with Chris earlier today, and he said he wouldn't be making it. Next year for sure though. We all should have a good APC meet and greet. It will actually be close to the 10 year anniversary of me being a mod here, plus the impending apocalypse, so we can find something to celebrate. Too bad , at least I can meet him next year . An APC meet n greet sounds like fun . WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 My little contribution.When you dont want or can not spot weld you can do it as follows.I cut very small Ti strips (like a nail), and clamped my anode between the shaft and a small Ti plate. Just bended the nails and then pressed it in my vice. This one did 20 ampere with no problem. Hi pdfbq, Now I have to admit, I never thought of that one (I like it!). Hmm, titanium rivets; where can I get some 3mm CP titanium wire?!! WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 nah, im good with welding, its the plasma cutting im no good at. next time, when i cut my other sheet, ill use some wheels and a guide, or some controlled method of moving it.i made only 1 mistake with spot welding, but i did it in a rush, so what do you expect!.im sure though, since the other one is still in good nick, people will still buy it. I usually sell the pretty ones and use the "beauty challenged" ones myself (who cares? they still work!). When spot welding metal mesh to sheet metal, more contact points seem better than fewer. It may not matter electrically, but I feel better with more points of contact . Excellent! Now drop it in some saltwater and power it up ! WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 titanium rivets would never work. could you imagin the required force to crush the titanium! nothing hand held would work. nothing made of steel anyway....... and large rivets would need to be used to match the mesh size of the anode , which is even more difficult.i can obtain such wire for free, but i think ive asked too many favours......... plus spotwelding is much easier, and reliable. i would imagine eventually the contact between the sheet and mesh, would become obstructed over time by titanium dioxide or some inert unconuctive salt by that method, whereas a good weld will probably never wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdfbq Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 titanium rivets would never work. could you imagin the required force to crush the titanium! nothing hand held would work. nothing made of steel anyway....... and large rivets would need to be used to match the mesh size of the anode , which is even more difficult.i can obtain such wire for free, but i think ive asked too many favours......... plus spotwelding is much easier, and reliable. i would imagine eventually the contact between the sheet and mesh, would become obstructed over time by titanium dioxide or some inert unconuctive salt by that method, whereas a good weld will probably never wear out.I don't understand this post.I did it, it works, and it worked run after run. Titanium CP2 is quite 'soft' and also keeps shape after bending.I did not said it is better than spot welding, just an alternative if someone does not have a spot welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbillyreefer Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 For contacts on my mesh I used a peice of 316 stainless tubing. I cut a slot in it, pinched one end shut in the vice, slid the anode in, put the stripped end of my wire inside the tubing with the anode and filled it with molten lead. Quick and dirty. Seems to be working well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrojig Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I don't understand this post.I did it, it works, and it worked run after run. Titanium CP2 is quite 'soft' and also keeps shape after bending.I did not said it is better than spot welding, just an alternative if someone does not have a spot welder. Do they sell Ti rivits on the market? That is interesting .. What is your success with using these? I'd prefer a weld, but rivits sound like a "next best thing" v.s. the weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 My little contribution.When you dont want or can not spot weld you can do it as follows.I cut very small Ti strips (like a nail), and clamped my anode between the shaft and a small Ti plate. Just bended the nails and then pressed it in my vice. This one did 20 ampere with no problem. Thank you pdfbq, I think i'll try this method, seeing as welding is a little beyond me at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrojig Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Thank you pdfbq, I think i'll try this method, seeing as welding is a little beyond me at the moment. Why not find someone who can weld it for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) titanium rivets would never work. could you imagin the required force to crush the titanium! nothing hand held would work. nothing made of steel anyway....... and large rivets would need to be used to match the mesh size of the anode , which is even more difficult.i can obtain such wire for free, but i think ive asked too many favours......... plus spotwelding is much easier, and reliable. i would imagine eventually the contact between the sheet and mesh, would become obstructed over time by titanium dioxide or some inert unconuctive salt by that method, whereas a good weld will probably never wear out. Alloy titanium rivets would be a problem but CP (commercially pure) titanium rivets wouldn't be much worse than steel rivets. No need to worry about the openings in the mesh, it looks like he sandwiched the mesh between two pieces of titanium sheet metal. I like the idea as an alternative to welding. Neccessity is the Mother of Invention . Welding will always be my first choice, but it looks like I now have a viable alternative . WSM Edited August 5, 2011 by WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Another method is to use titanium machine screws, I believe this was already mentioned. I used them to secure my Pt mesh to a Ti strap. I drilled and tapped the Ti and threaded the screws in nice and tight. I imagine drilling through and using nuts would also work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Why not find someone who can weld it for you? I'm only 16, it's mostly just a science project, and I have a tight budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 you know what, i take back what i said. the anode would probably be dead by the time the titanium had oxidized enough to block the current, if done properly. if not then earlier. of course i dont really know all that much about this any more than enough to give an educated opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmanbeefjerky Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) I just found my first ATX i ever tried using (but never succeeded in accessing anything other than the styandby power, i had no idea i needed to connect the green and grey to turn it on), and i am stupefied to find that its a 400 Watt ATX from a bloody windows 98 PC, and can produce 5V@40A and 3.3V@28A!Which is awesome since it means i don't need to move my other atx powering the fan cooling my ball mill, as well as keeping it above the ground, sitting on both my step down transformer and the atx on its side. Ima so glad Edited August 6, 2011 by oldmanbeefjerky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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