Just reviving this so I can find it again!
Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:00 PM
Posted 17 October 2017 - 04:18 PM
Just reviving this so I can find it again!
good revive , replying to subscribe to thread
Posted 17 October 2017 - 08:05 PM
From a Google Pyro forum chat.... post was by John Reilly!:
"The method described in Fulcanelli part II is the traditional Italian
method and is the best in my opinion. The stringing of the hole shots as described is an art. The dried shots are cut apart and the string ears overlap the cavity end of the crossette star and are held in place by the pasted paper crown when finishing the loaded star. The string keeps the shot from falling through the burned open cavity as the comet is spinning through the air. I cheat a little and use 3" gummed paper tape to roll the shots using a 4 point crimp to close one end before
punching and fusing.
For the 1-1/4" comet shots I take a 5/16" diameter piece of wooden
dowel (mandrel) which is about 4 to 5" long and waxed by rubbing with a
candle stub to avoid the paper's sticking to it. One end of this
mandrel is bored dead center with an 1/8" hole about 3/8" deep. The 3" gummed kraft paper tape (std. 60# weight) is cut into 3" lengths to give three turns around the mandrel. (One 3" strip gives 5 finished "hole shots". A piece of this paper is placed gum side up with the mandrel squared and centered on the edge nearest you. With thumbs and forefingers the first turn of paper is laid on the mandrel and held tightly against the rolling board with the fingers of the left hand (if you're right handed) grabbing the damped sponge and wiping the remaining pasted side of paper to activate the glue. The thin casing is formed with a push of the palm of the hand and rolled firmly back and forth the round and tighten the 3" long tube. The damp tube is slipped up about 1/8" to 3/16" past the drilled end and with a thin awl, a 4 point crimp is started on the overlapping paper. (12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 o'clock positions. The mandrel with the overlap crimp end is smashed smartly down on the rolling table which folds the 4 point crimp down on the end of the mandrel. While the mandrel (crimped
tube end) is held tightly against the table the mallet is taken and the mandrel is give two or three quick raps to "set" the crimp closed. The awl is taken and a hole punched in the center of the crimp to allow for the insertion of the fuse later. The case is slipped up on the mandrel again and with sharp scissors is snipped off (into a small box) so you have a shot tube with one end open, one end crimped closed, and with a fuse hole in the center of the
crimp. This is repeated 4 more times and the another 3" paper strip is rolled and so on till you have 100 "shots" or however many you need. This sounds like it is time consuming but I could have rolled ten shots in the time it took me to type this. I use either specially made thin fast match or chinese firecracker (tissue) fuse which is cut ahead of time into 3/4" lengths: the fuse is
inserted through the hole in the crimp of the shot leaving about 1/4" projecting outside the crimped end. The shots are all fused first and then loaded. A number of 1-1/4" pcs of thin cotton or flax string are cut (one per shot). First, a shot is taken and a piece of the cut string dropped into the open end of the shot tube with the tag end hanging out. A scoop of dark report comp. (50/50 mix of KClO3 and Antimony Sulfide)
is added to the open end of the shot. A pinch of fairly coarse sawdust is added on top lightly pressing in with the forefinger (string still hanging out.) Lastly a good smear of white glue (PVA) is run across the sawdust (keeping the string end out of the way). Set them aside to dry. When the shots are loaded into the star cavity the string lays across the comet end. The comets get a 1-1/4" very thin chipboard disc on the end (holding the string) before the kraft pastewrap is pleated down over the shot end. (The chipboard disc helps keep the paste from
soaking into the star). There are many method and tricks to cracking
crossettes and this is just one way I find convenient and workable for
me. There is no "correct" technique except the one you find reliable and feel comfortable with. Flash powder (70/30 KClO4 to blackhead or similar fine flake aluminum) will work fine with these shots too. I only use the black antimony and chlorate to avoid the bright flash. --John Reilly--- "
John Reilly has some good info from Fulcanelli part II here. I was relieved to be able to get my crossettes to break as I wanted to by dialing in a non-chlorate comp. <phew!> Potassium Chlorate and Antimony trisulfide are a very sensitive dark break mix.
Edited by PeteyPyro, 17 October 2017 - 09:14 PM.
Posted 18 October 2017 - 12:27 AM
Posted 18 October 2017 - 06:17 AM
Posted 18 October 2017 - 09:34 AM
You can use whistle to break crossettes. I've typically used it granuated, and with a burn rate catalyst like iron oxide or copper oxychloride. It all depends on the size of the crossette of course. Smaller crossettes typically need a strong burst, and large crossettes typically require something with less strength.
The sky is my canvas, and I have 2,113 pounds of powdered paint in the workshop.
Posted 18 October 2017 - 10:49 AM
Edited by greenlight, 18 October 2017 - 10:49 AM.
Posted 18 October 2017 - 01:48 PM
Posted 24 April 2018 - 04:04 PM
I just wonder is there any type of flash powder without perclorate/clorate that is enough powerful to break small crossete stars (16mm).
Is KNO3 + Mg powerfull enough?
Posted 14 February 2019 - 02:34 AM
Posted 10 August 2019 - 08:26 AM
Posted 12 August 2019 - 08:49 PM
This is a 6" cylinder shell I made with shotless crossettes, using my own break method. I break them with whistle tamped into place, a magnum pistol primer, and more whistle tamped in. Worked every time.
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