usapyro Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 (edited) I just got an empty 55 gallon barrel! I ran a sawzaw with a metal cutting blade around the inside of the top of the rim like a can opener and removed the end with the openings. I don't have a 20-30 gallon barrel to go inside it yet and am just going to use 5 gallon sealed metal buckets for cooking the charcoal. Not sure how to re-seal a 30 gallon barrel anyway... Put it upside down inside the larger barrel? Now... What I need help with is figuring out what size and shape to cut the air intakes for the highest efficiency and right temperature in making charcoal. I was thinking about cutting squares in the bottom still attached on one end so I can adjust them in and out... Six rectangular holes two inches wide and four inches tall attached on the top... Adjustable. But it's simpler if I just put in holes with a set size and call it good. Plus, the metal would probably eventually break from being bent in/out... Anyone around here know of a tutorial with exact specifications or have a double barrel type setup for cooking charcoal? Upgrading from my old setup where I used small chimney pipe inside large metal steam pipe. Edited October 8, 2012 by usapyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I use the same kind of retort ie two 5 gallon pails inside a 55 gallon drum for the buckets I punched two holes one in the lid and one on the bottom (in the center) and ran a long bolt through and used nuts to get it tight so there is no way that lids coming off! for vents on the bucket I punched two 1/4 inch holes on the lid. for vents on the barrel I use 8, 4 by 3 inch holes, four on the bottom (I have it one two, 2 inch pipe so there is some air flow under the barrel) and then four on the side near the bottom. I can cook my charcoal in about 1 hour and 40 mins but I use diesel to get it started I'm telling you it makes life a lot easyer a guy (can't remember his name I'll go check) on pyroguideforum was making a tut on it but I don't know if he did or didn't bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 check with Oil change shops, they get grease in 16g open top drums, perfect for Retorts I use a hole saw 1.25" to make the vents, about 2" apart On the 16g barrell 4-6 .5" holes below the top edge, .25" hole in the bottom (this is to allow steam to escape), fill the barrell , secure the lid and invert in the 55.This puts the .5" holes at the bottom, once the cooking begins the gases will do the cooking, takes a lot less wood this way You can see 2 of the 16g drums in the pic, 1 to the left (new blue one) and an old one in front of the 55 Charcoal cooking and I'm peeling bark for the next load http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr47/Algenco/SANY0308.jpg 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usapyro Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Btw, do you guys find the chimney on top helps all that much? I have some solid metal sheeting and a bunch of old metal chimneys lying around so I could easily make a short chimney for it. I was thinking of just making a vented metal cover to keep more heat reflected downward. I don't care about the speed that much. In some video's guys were talking about barrels wearing out and burning holes through them, but they were making seriously ridiculous amounts of charcoal for garden and other use... I only will be doing a couple runs a year or so at this scale. Edited October 9, 2012 by usapyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 chimmney helps slow the burn and keep temps lower.My outer barrell lasts for about 30 batchs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usapyro Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Nice... Thanks! Vented lid it is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I got lucky, found a guy with open top 55g barrells, got 4 for $10eaPaid $40ea for the 16g from a recycler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usapyro Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) You must make a crazy amount of black powder/willow stars/etc... Build a lot of large shells? I see that big cement mixer star roller there. I bet 99% of the people on this forum use less than one of your charcoal runs per year... Even I have not used that much in a year... But, I may scale up someday! Edited October 9, 2012 by usapyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) this year I think I made about 25 lbs of charcoal (I used a lot in fire balls) when it comes to barrels I'm really lucky I could get 20 for free if I really wanted to, theres tones of them were I live@ algenco that picture looks like pyro heaven lolbob Edited October 9, 2012 by bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 That's a beautiful pile of Paulownia, Al! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 That's a beautiful pile of Paulownia, Al! sure is, the pile is twice as lg now Removing the bark is a pita with the cement mixer I can make 20-25# of coated rice hulls per batch and roll lots of stars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 High pressure air lance might work to take the bark off real quick.Be careful!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 High pressure air lance might work to take the bark off real quick.Be careful!!! only the lg dia pieces 15" and up cause a problem and that isn't bad just time consuming, most peel fairly easy.Some people beleive the bark doesn't effect performance much at all, I'm anal, all bark removed and I don't use knots 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondogman Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Damn AlYou got me wanting to cut down my tree now. I had a paulownia sprout up out of nowhere a few years back its about 30 ft high now and maybe 8 in across at the base. I am going to give it another year to bloom and if it freezes out again its gonna be charcoal.Do you dry yours or cook it wet?? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Damn AlYou got me wanting to cut down my tree now. I had a paulownia sprout up out of nowhere a few years back its about 30 ft high now and maybe 8 in across at the base. I am going to give it another year to bloom and if it freezes out again its gonna be charcoal.Do you dry yours or cook it wet?? Steve Steve,If you bedark and split it will dry in a couple of weeks.I've cooked both green and dry, green just takes longerCut the sprout, 2-3 will come back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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