Mumbles Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 That shouldn't be so bad. I guess only a trial will tell. Keep us updated. I really like the modular design of the stacking screens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I don't think the upper pipe between the 2 is needed at all.If you remove the upper pipe, cover the holes, except leave about a 1/2 inch exhaust hole to restrict the air flow out.I think it would function perfectly.If I recall correctly, the heating element goes from 90F to145F.That should do the job about under any conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taiwanluthiers Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) I don't know much about star drying (haven't gotten there yet) but does it really need heat to dry? I am thinking just moving dry air through it, with a large fan or something should do the trick, no risk of ignition there. If you live somewhere very humid, then a dehumidifier can be used, unless its one of those dehumidifier that can auto ignite (there were several models of faulty dehumidifiers in Taiwan that would auto ignite when left on too long. They were obviously recalled but some may remain) Edited June 13, 2012 by taiwanluthiers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potassiumchlorate Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) It depends. For instance: I have a pretty high air humidity where I live. In this very moment it is 81% relative air humidity - indoors. When making organic chlorate stars, they will first dry excellently, though, but after some days more they will somehow attract moist and become hard to ignite, even compositions with no hygroscopic chemicals in them will do this. I can't explain this phenomenom. That the wet stars will first dry is probably thanks to the alcohol, that helps the water evaporate. But anyway, I heat my organic stars in the oven at 70-90oC for three hours. Then I put them in a ziploc-bag. I don't have any fans or stuff to make a drying box, so I first let them dry the "natural" way, so that the water evaporates from the core and outwards. Then I dry them brutally in the oven to drive out the last water. Edited June 13, 2012 by Potassiumchlorate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taiwanluthiers Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 What if you just take a dehumidifier and pipe the output right into the star drying box? It sure is a lot safer than using heat that could potentially ignite the mixture. Dehumidifier heats up the air too so the air that comes out will be very very dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GalFisk Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Potassiumchlorate: at that high humidity, many compounds not classified as hygroscopic will still attract moisture. A substance with any hygroscopic properties will attract moisture above a certain humidity point, and release it (and dry out) below This point. Below a certain point it is classed as hygroscopic, but some of our compounds have points in the 80-90% range and may cause you problems. Iirc KNO3 is at 78%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TritonPyro Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Californiapyro, I see the 4oz rocket tooling set. Excuse my ig. But what size tube would that be for. Looks great for a small rocket. Thanks. By the way, you cannot use a light dimmer for controlling a heating element. ( forgot who that was ). My rockets have always been 3/4inch X 7inch tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taiwanluthiers Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 I believe 4oz uses 1/2" ID tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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