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Does original Bickford timefuse contain sulphur?


mabuse00

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Hi guys,

 

see topic, does anyone know if original Bickford Timefuse contains sulphur?

I'd like to use it together with H3 lift...

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Hi guys,

 

see topic, does anyone know if original Bickford Timefuse contains sulphur?

I'd like to use it together with H3 lift...

 

I would think so, as the powder core consists of BP or a comparable mixture of KNO3,S and C.

You could just dip the end in NC lacquer to seal it and prime with a non-S priming.

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Touching is not an issue. I don't see a reason to worry about.

 

touching is where the problem is at (thats where friction can occur) if its a sulfur containing prime on a chlorate star there is no opportunity for friction during handling.

 

There are 3 good methods you can keep sulfur away from your H3 while still using ordinary time fuse

 

1. a sulfur free prime on the time fuse

 

2. an Exploding spoltete (that takes care of your boost too not that it is needed with H3) made by either pressing a spolete and filling the top with flash than capping it with tissue paper or by inserting a peice of time fuse into a 1/4" tube and again adding the flash..... just be careful when I first thought of making them I ended up packing the flash alittle tight in many and ended up with a bright white dot burning for quite some time (almost a gram of pressed flash(70/30) in a 1/4" tube will burn for long enough(after the initial delay) for a 3" to hit the ground before it burns through)

 

3. add a small bucket ontop of your fusing containing either bp bp on hulls or flash or a combination

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Mr. mabuse00 wants to combine bickford fuse with H3 lift. Seriously, from where will this enough force come to rub the lift charge against the bickford fuse?

Sulfur/chlorate touching is worrying where high friction occurs, when it comes to burst charge/stars rubbing, especially if the stars are sharp edged. Heavy shells with unprotected stars can explode while lifting or when falling on the ground, but the forces needed to ignite the stars are much supperior than the ones that the lift charge and the bickford will meet.

 

From another point of view it would be wise to protect the bickford, because I don't thrust anyone else's black powder. Who knows if they put acidic sulfur?

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If the powder core doesn't contain, the tar layer definitely does. When I burned it there was some noticeable sulfur odor. It was difficult to tell if it was from a typical BP type mix as the tar odor was quite over powering.

 

I completely agree with 50AE on this one Ralph. You are blowing things entirely out of proportion. H3 lift with a BP time fuse, blackmatch, or spolette will not cause any issues. If you're really that worried, you must take almost zero safe handling precautions.

 

As far as your flash spolette idea (maybe not a great one by the way), try using good flash and you wont have that problem.

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I completely agree with 50AE on this one Ralph. You are blowing things entirely out of proportion. H3 lift with a BP time fuse, blackmatch, or spolette will not cause any issues. If you're really that worried, you must take almost zero safe handling precautions.

 

As far as your flash spolette idea (maybe not a great one by the way), try using good flash and you wont have that problem.

 

 

 

If someone doesn't feal comfortable having an ancient sulfur containing composition in contact with their chlorate than they are suitable options to separate it and like I said if an accident will occur it will be from 2 things that are touching that are made to rub together.

 

 

I was using 70/30 with indian pyro100 al (2-4 micron)and milled perc . If you press flash (ill bet even the star molecule) with an open end it will just make a really fast end burning nozzles rocket motor

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I realize I am out of my league in this discussion here but isnt pressing flash a not so good idea?

 

 

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about as good an Idea as pressing whistle or most coloured rocket fuels if pressed there is no problem at all its when people start doing stupid things like using body pressure hammers and what not that problems occur
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I see, learn something new every day. :rolleyes:
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about as good an Idea as pressing whistle or most coloured rocket fuels if pressed there is no problem at all its when people start doing stupid things like using body pressure hammers and what not that problems occur

 

 

it can still go boom if pressed there are other factors besides the pressing force.

 

dan.

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Thank you for your answers.

 

I dfinitely want to use the bickford. Indeed it's fumes smell a little sulphur like...

 

I want to use the angled cut method and prime it with normal BP. I could use sulphurless BP, but I'm afraid that the possibility of a failed ignition is higher. Also I would of course prefer a rough surface.

So there is defenitely the possibility of little crumbles of sulphur/crumbles containing sulphur mixing with the H3.

 

After all we are humans and we make mistakes - accidently dropping a shell cannot be ruled out.

I don't have much experience with chlorate, if you say the risk is reasonable I'll try it that way next time.

 

 

 

 

The flash spoletta (I thought about a H3 or sulphurless BP spoletta...) is a nice variant for sure but is is to special for me. Without a proper press it will be hard to maintain constant quality and safety. And one little crack is likely to create a flowerpot that ruins the mortar.

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If someone doesn't feal comfortable having an ancient sulfur containing composition in contact with their chlorate than they are suitable options to separate it and like I said if an accident will occur it will be from 2 things that are touching that are made to rub together.

 

 

I was using 70/30 with indian pyro100 al (2-4 micron)and milled perc . If you press flash (ill bet even the star molecule) with an open end it will just make a really fast end burning nozzles rocket motor

 

You may want to rethink the quality of your chemicals or construction techniques. You cannot accidentally compact flash to much to make it burn like a flare.

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Why don't you just simply slice/pierce the bickford and put a piece of BM like the most do? I use to slice the time fuse, insert a thin piece of blackmatch and tighten it with string.
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You may want to rethink the quality of your chemicals or construction techniques. You cannot accidentally compact flash to much to make it burn like a flare.

 

It wast quite accidentally the flash was added after the powder train had be pressed the flash was added and than same rammer was inserted and carefully pushed down (with a single finger) so that I could fit the amount of boost I usually used in those shells. Chems are fine Using High purity Perc and I've already mentioned the Al 3g of it will self confine if the flash is added loosely it should report every time

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Thank you for your answers.

 

I dfinitely want to use the bickford. Indeed it's fumes smell a little sulphur like...

 

I want to use the angled cut method and prime it with normal BP. I could use sulphurless BP, but I'm afraid that the possibility of a failed ignition is higher. Also I would of course prefer a rough surface.

So there is defenitely the possibility of little crumbles of sulphur/crumbles containing sulphur mixing with the H3.

 

After all we are humans and we make mistakes - accidently dropping a shell cannot be ruled out.

I don't have much experience with chlorate, if you say the risk is reasonable I'll try it that way next time.

 

 

 

 

The flash spoletta (I thought about a H3 or sulphurless BP spoletta...) is a nice variant for sure but is is to special for me. Without a proper press it will be hard to maintain constant quality and safety. And one little crack is likely to create a flowerpot that ruins the mortar.

 

golden powder?

 

dan.

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