drthrust Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 for me , aluminum first, (its very forgiving on the lathe you can get a nice finish by filing, sanding) then brass , bronze.ive not worked with stainless yet so i cant comment.talking of steps in spindles, done any work on stepped whistle tooling? the results are surprisingly good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 for me , aluminum first, (its very forgiving on the lathe you can get a nice finish by filing, sanding) then brass , bronze.ive not worked with stainless yet so i cant comment.talking of steps in spindles, done any work on stepped whistle tooling? the results are surprisingly good Yes, my first were designs by a member over on Passfire that had stepped all of his whistle tooling. The issue was the ever changing thrust curve and I found that I liked the taper much better. The Universal Tooling is my favorite so far, the lift is amazing and with 5% charcoal, the tail is fantastic as well. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guntoteninfadel Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 On the outside it may seem that commercial tooling is WAY TOO expensive. However once you really look at what is required to make decent tooling its really not that expensive. There is a lot of machining that goes into a good set and that takes time and as we all know time is money. Not to mention the 2k that the lathe cost +/- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WonderBoy Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've been using a WWII era South Bend Quick Change Gear Lathe with taper attachment. I really like the taper attachment, helps a lot. Also, I turn almost all of my spindles out of SS. After turning stainless, aluminum turns like a dream. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've been using a WWII era South Bend Quick Change Gear Lathe with taper attachment. I really like the taper attachment, helps a lot. Also, I turn almost all of my spindles out of SS. After turning stainless, aluminum turns like a dream. So true!! Hmmmm, want to make some spindles for me? -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stckmndn Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Hey eggi, Sorry about your thread being hijacked. How are your tests coming along? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 commercial tooling cost way too much PM me, you may get tooling for a better price then you would imagine. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guntoteninfadel Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) This isn't a cheap hobby REALLY wish someone had clued me in on this one before the addiction! Edited July 8, 2011 by guntoteninfadel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Crack, meth, pot and Heroine are like that too -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guntoteninfadel Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Can you slow down! Im trying to take notes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 commercial tooling cost way too much all my one pound two pound three pound tooling is handmade,aluminum rod wood(oak) rammers(I know I know a no no) they work my one pounder tooling is three years old still going strong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 What's wrong with aluminum and oak? That's how I got started as well. I do love my good stainless and brass tooling, the ease of making motors is amazing. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 What's wrong with aluminum and oak? That's how I got started as well. I do love my good stainless and brass tooling, the ease of making motors is amazing. -dag one dayI will fork over the money for tooling Im just so damn cheap and they work!lol Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggi96 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 hi guys just question on fusing.How do i fuse core burner rockets cause won't the fuse just fall out when lighting it. Do I put cotton wool around the fuse? If so won't that cause a cato Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 There are as many options as you have fingers for fusing a core burner, one way (and my preferred method) is a simple J hook at the end of the fuse. They are pretty darn stable as long as you dont pull on it. The next option is to tape the visco to the stick. This works fine with American visco but Chinese Visco burns completely away leaving nothing for the tape to hold. I just grab the visco and bend it about an inch from the end and stuff it in the nozzle just past the clay unless its a nozzleless and then its placed just inside the fuel grain. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1dermon Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Do you have specific dimensions for your tooling? For instance, diameter of nozzle throat, length of divergent section, diameter of exit cone, and if possible, angle of divergent section cone, and inner length of nozzle throat? In addition, length of fuel grain and diameter of core? Im under the impression that you're using 454g of propellent in your design? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Do you have specific dimensions for your tooling? For instance, diameter of nozzle throat, length of divergent section, diameter of exit cone, and if possible, angle of divergent section cone, and inner length of nozzle throat? In addition, length of fuel grain and diameter of core? Im under the impression that you're using 454g of propellent in your design? Thanks. I do have all of the dimensions for my tooling but I do not share them as I sell tooling to pay for my trips to PGI each year and that would put a real damper on my little cottage industry. Also, the design is the creation of another hobbyist from whom I purchased the rights to make tooling from so the prints are not mine to share. Buy a set and grab a set of calipers I use 165g of fuel in my 3# core burners, 454g is one US pound. That is an awful lot of fuel for a rocket unless you are getting into the larger non-standard sizes. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 hi guys just question on fusing.How do i fuse core burner rockets cause won't the fuse just fall out when lighting it. Do I put cotton wool around the fuse? If so won't that cause a cato try taking some bm inside a tube that holds three strands,make it 1" longer than the core,leave 3/4" at the end exposed so it can light the top of the core,at the other end slide a piece of visco into the tube holding the three strands of bm and tape the visco in. It will light the top of your core making it thrust a tad more,I make slow bp for all my 1,2,and 3lb rockets so fusing this way makes a nice lazy smooth take off with plenty of power.Try it you'll like it,I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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