GregWoloshyn Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 What better way to start off firework making than to build a bigger ball mill for my BP! I currently run that red 3lb one people toss around here alot, but I need something with more capacity. I just bought this motor off ebay to get the ball rolling, should work perfectly.FASCO 7189-6433 - Type U89B1- Electric Motor w/capacitor1/4 HP1700/1400 RPM115/230 V 60/50 Hz Thermally Protected 3" x 1/2" ShaftClockwise rotation (looking down shaft). http://i52.tinypic.com/n3srkn.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 That should work fine. Now you need to decide on jar size to determine pulley ratios. Th erecommnede motors are TEFC (to avoid powder getting in to a sparking motor). I've never had one. The 1/4 hp will be great. I used to mill batches of up to 1kg with a 1/15hp motor and never had any problems.The rotation makes no difference, it will determine which side you mount the motor on. Mine is reversible, but from what I've read the driven roller should be lifting the jar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregWoloshyn Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Yeah i figured 1/4 hp will be plenty. My plan is to design it in three separate bays, one for the motor and two for the jars. The calculator in the ball mill faq thread will prove to be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Yeah i figured 1/4 hp will be plenty. My plan is to design it in three separate bays, one for the motor and two for the jars. The calculator in the ball mill faq thread will prove to be useful. If you plan on building a nice "deluxe" ballmill, build it so it can be a star roller too. Two great functions in one machine.For star rolling, I just drop a lawn tractor tire onto the rollers and VOILA! A cheap and easy addition to the ballmill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregWoloshyn Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Cool idea. Im very new tothis hobby so i'm going to have to read about star rollers before i begin construction. The articles at skylighter are excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Cool idea. Im very new tothis hobby so i'm going to have to read about star rollers before i begin construction. The articles at skylighter are excellent. Take a look at the ballmill thread here. Lots of good info there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregWoloshyn Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 In your first reply you said the driven roller should be lifting the jar. Could you please elaborate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 In your first reply you said the driven roller should be lifting the jar. Could you please elaborate? It's kind of hard to write out...If you picture the jar sitting on/between 2 rollers, you want the driven (powered) one to be "lifting" the jar. From an "end view", assuming your motor (and driven roller) are turning clockwise, you want the driven roller to be on the right (lifting) and the idle roller to be on the left. The jar will now be turning counter-clockwise. That way the driven roller is lifting the jar as opposed to it "turning the jar down" (not sure how else to say that). I hope that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregWoloshyn Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Oh i get it, makes perfect sense. I'll keep you updated on my progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZenZaBill Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I don't think that driving the mill "up" or 'down" matters...I built a rock tumbler that had a geared-down final drive wheel (rubber) contacting 2 drums to drive them. Both were resting on idler wheels. With the rubber drive wheel between the drums, one is driven 'up" and the other 'down" and we saw no difference in rotation speed, slipping, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 I don't think that driving the mill "up" or 'down" matters...I built a rock tumbler that had a geared-down final drive wheel (rubber) contacting 2 drums to drive them. Both were resting on idler wheels. With the rubber drive wheel between the drums, one is driven 'up" and the other 'down" and we saw no difference in rotation speed, slipping, etc. I am afraid that i does make a lot of difference when it comes to heavy jars. CplMac just finished a very large ball mill and found it had to drive up or the drum would no turn. My commercial ball mill also pushed up to drive the jar. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrophury Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I am afraid that i does make a lot of difference when it comes to heavy jars. CplMac just finished a very large ball mill and found it had to drive up or the drum would no turn. My commercial ball mill also pushed up to drive the jar. -dag I experienced the same problem when designing my ball mill, heavy jars would just slip if they were 'driven down'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algenco Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 driven down is actually pushing into the idler, no work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldguy Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 (edited) My 3/4 HP TEFC powered BM will run 100 lbs (2 jars + media + chems) turning UP very effectivly.Up is far more efficient than down. Edited June 11, 2011 by oldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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