dangerousamateur Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 The reason I'm interested in them is that for me, nitrates are much harder to get then perchlorate. Also I've got a large suppy of that stuff.It's not toxic, not hygroscopic, alsways a fine powder, no need to mill it like nitrates... Much more convenient. And the carbonates are very easy to get anywhere. The green made with this formula is VERY bright, the only down side is the stars burn VERY fastNo wonder they are bright - 30% Metal....But how is the color? Is it really green, or more white with a greenish tint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 If you just add some dextrin to the formula, then you could roll or cut with water, and no issues about the parlon goo in your roller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Pyro Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) The reason I'm interested in them is that for me, nitrates are much harder to get then perchlorate. Also I've got a large suppy of that stuff.It's not toxic, not hygroscopic, alsways a fine powder, no need to mill it like nitrates... Much more convenient. And the carbonates are very easy to get anywhere. No wonder they are bright - 30% Metal....But how is the color? Is it really green, or more white with a greenish tint? Sorry, meant to say the color is VERY good. In the air it's a nice green, I didn't notice much of a white hue. I have video somewhere, I'll post it if I happen to find it. Edited September 30, 2012 by Xtreme Pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cogbarry Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I have rolled these stars but it is messy. I used a plastic salad bowl from one of those cheap stackable tupperware kits from the grocery store. I added some NC to the acetone. I believe you do need to use acetone to dissolve the parlon. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that. The NC made it even messier but the stars picked up the comp much faster. I found that it pays to work with small batches. I did not roll them in the conventional way. Instead of rolling the stars using the whole bowl, I did something closer to "panning for gold". I used one side of the bowl to "pan" and add comp, then, I would let the starts shift to the other side, stop and spray them with solvent, bring them back to the comp side. I found this method greatly reduced the amount of comp wasted from coagulating in the bowl. The stars come out perfectly round for me with this method so it's easy to roll on more layers. Rolling versus cutting also helped me to size the stars as I haven't figured out how to use my mums sizing screens with cut stars. It also seemed to increase burn time, not sure if that's due to the NC, density or both. Maybe someone will jump in here. The stars are a bit hard to light but fence post prime solved that problem for me. I have made the red, green and blue stars and have been pleased with all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerousamateur Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Sorry, meant to say the color is VERY good. In the air it's a nice green, I didn't notice much of a white hue. I have video somewhere, I'll post it if I happen to find it. Thanks. I hoped to hear something like that. Besides:How do your carbonates come from the dealer?Mine consists mainly of coarse hard granules, wich are very hard to sieve. Afterwards I can see some tiny white specks in the starmix. No good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 ... It's not toxic, not hygroscopic, alsways a fine powder, no need to mill it like nitrates... Much more convenient.... I've seen a few people say that barium carbonate is non-toxic. I'm really not sure where that came from, but it's dangerously false. If ingested, barium carbonate will dissolve to barium chloride in your stomach acid and become an issue. It also seems to be believed to be able to be absorbed through the lungs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerousamateur Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Mumbles, my comment was pointed to the perchlorate.I'm aware of barium carbonate not beeing harmless, but it's free available almost anywhere. Seems like they used it as rat poison in old times. If this stuff wasnt so damn lumpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 My apologies. I got the impression you were talking about barium carbonate. I've generally gotten barium carbonate that was a quite fine powder. It's always been strontium carbonate that is clumpy for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerousamateur Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 I've generally gotten barium carbonate that was a quite fine powderOk, time to change the supplier. It was pottery stuff. First dextrine bound batch is drying... How do you guys prime your stars, I still got a batch BP with silicon ready. Or do I need some hotter perchlorate based stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Mine has been pottery stuff for the most part too, though I inherited some from Skylighter or one of the other pyro suppliers in addition to having some of the good stuff from Barium and Chemicals. I generally get mine from Clay Art Center. It's been so long since I've purchased any, so things might have changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 im using pergut instead of parlon its spossed to be "superior"to parlon am making the brililant red version basicly cause uncle harry charges to much if you could post the white formula i would be grateful unless you buy the kit they only give a complicated mathmatical version of the rainbow ones thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowcat1969 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) The table in this article shows exact amounts of chemicals to make the comps for the various colors. Nothing mathematical about it, they are just in decimals instead of percentages. i.e. .30 = 30%, etc. http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to-make/colored-screen-sliced-rubber-stars.asp Edited February 25, 2013 by Shadowcat1969 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Anyone that tries to tell you that pergut is superior to parlon is working some sort of marketing scheme, or is just totally full of it. They are just about the same chemically, but pergut has much more coarse material that leads to incandescent tails if not properly screened out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 thanks guys ..i figured that was probably the deal wit the pergut thus the perenthesis appreciate the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 okay nave made brilliant red ...they are brilliant alright. put a few through my star gun and noticed a couple actually let off a nice little pop at or near the end is that normal. cuz im pretty sure it aint..anybody know why?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loaded4bear Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Bob: To answer your question - Yes - roll away. Put away the acetone and add 3-5% dextrin to taste. I do this all the time, no mess. I really don't like to cut any stars. Seems very imprecise to me and I wind up with little bits of star nubs leftover that are mostly a waste for aerial shells (though good for star mines). For exact color transitions and burnout timing, I prefer rolling and careful sizing. Round stars fit more precisely in the shell as well. I would never put parlon and acetone in my roller drum. It will take forever to get it clean. Rolled parlon/dextrin stars will be a bit rough on the surface but the prime goes over that. Screen out the large pieces of parlon before you weigh. The spritz and sprinkle method works fine for parlon stars but use the toro method for charcoal based comps. I use mustard seeds for cores. I refuse to use lead. Spray down the seeds in a separate container with water/alcohol outside of the drum. Swirl around quickly then dump the damp seeds in the drum and add the first sprinkly quickly. This way you don't get too much water in the drum to start with. Good luck with the new roller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 this is true. but personally the weather where im at is so freakish that unless you want to wait a month for them to dry the acetone has to stay..but i am looking into rolling stars .if ever spring comes. its the only reason i decided to give the rubber ones a try. and they are pretty i cheated and am using non carbonates they just dont thrill me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TritonPyro Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 When I received the Strontium Nitrate, I was amazed at the amount of moisture that was included. I knew it was hygroscopic , but it needed a lot of drying before use, it felt like damp beach sand. The skylighter formula is really good and I wonder if anyone has made a green Barium Nitrate one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 not yet.. but i orderd some barium nitrate and some calcium carbonate couple days ago .. ireally like bright green mines but he chartreuse is what im really wanting ive seen japanese shells . that look awesome .with this combo.im gonna make the purple ones here in about an hour or so.let ya know how it turns out as soon as i figure out how to ill include some vids..funny huh can make things that explode and look pretty but cant figure out how to up-load a vidieo...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 To make a chartreuse, adding a little bit of sodium can help. It's very easy to over do it. I'd start either adding one or two parts at a time of a sodium salt, or replacing some of the barium with sodium. A couple parts should get you a lime green, a couple more should get you more to chartreuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zAZO9a Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 thanks.. i appreciate the help..these shells really are pretty and offer a two color mixture that i dont think would normally even be considered by most people.kinda like pink until you see the way pinks.whites and reds are used in maltese shells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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