tentacles Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Can he get you the out-of-spec or scrap bearings? That would be an unbelievable score for you. I work at a scrapyard and some guys once brought in a box of 47lbs of chrome steel bearings, .73".. gave 'em $10 for it and they were happy, I was happy.. Turned out to be exactly enough to charge 2 of my 6" jars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I got mine cheap from these guys: Steel Ball Media per lb They have two little dimples of flashing from the forming process, but they get hammered down after a few milling runs and don't seem to adversely wear my milling jars . They *do* rust, so you have to keep them lightly oiled during storage. To remove the rust, just ball mill some rocket nozzle clay from kitty litter for an hr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yankie Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 I got my MgAl from Cooperman, it is good stuff, granules the size of peas. So I put some in a blender to see if it would do anything. to my surprise in under a minute 90% of it passed a 1mm screen. I will get some finer screens this weekend, but it looks as if around 50% of it will pass a 200 mesh screen. I just wanted to know before I make any more, are there any major issues with blending it? Also would it work for the finer particles? say getting it down to 200-400 mesh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miech Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 It might spark and ignite when put into a blender. For making it really fine I'd go with ball milling it with ceramic media. Of course this should be done outdoors, far away from flammable materials and peoples properties. If it sets on fire, never attempt to extinguish it with anything else than dry sand, or you'll get an explosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superman1451 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Would something like this work well for a crucible? Stainless steel malt cups Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyboy Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Would something like this work well for a crucible? Stainless steel malt cups It looks like a parting line at the bottom of the cup and in that case, no it will fall apart after a while. Although I think it's just an edge that is put on afterwards to improve stability and in that case it would work nicely. Stainless is really nice to use for melting in but I'm going to put an order in for these [apply envy]: http://www.konradw.se/ShowProduct.aspx?pro...328&cat=169 [/apply envy] It's only 30 bucks and it should hold up for 10-15 melts if used properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) Tentacles uses uninsulated stainless drink shakers with a bit of wire rod tack-welded to it for a handle. They work great, and have lids too. I'm sure they were much less than $20/ea as well. Cheap: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=360119699274 or for more than (1): http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=220301674727 Edited February 12, 2009 by FrankRizzo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyboy Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Tentacles uses uninsulated stainless drink shakers with a bit of wire rod tack-welded to it for a handle. They work great, and have lids too. I'm sure they were much less than $20/ea as well. I would never buy that crucible for making MgAl, my thoughts wandered when writing that, I use a stainless steel juice collecting mug from a juice-press for that (2 bucks for the whole thing at a flea-market, the press is used for small ID rockets and the cup was leftovers. ) like the picture: What I should have mentioned is that I am going to be using the graphite crucible for casting, when making MgAl I don't really care about the flakes and stuff coming of the crucible in to the mix but when casting parts I want a little more control of things. F-ing up a casting with strange flakes and crud is not my cup of tea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I would never buy that crucible for making MgAl, my thoughts wandered when writing that, I use a stainless steel juice collecting mug from a juice-press for that (2 bucks for the whole thing at a flea-market, the press is used for small ID rockets and the cup was leftovers. ) like the picture: What I should have mentioned is that I am going to be using the graphite crucible for casting, when making MgAl I don't really care about the flakes and stuff coming of the crucible in to the mix but when casting parts I want a little more control of things. F-ing up a casting with strange flakes and crud is not my cup of tea. Does that juicer seal with the pressing cone? If not, I'd go with the cocktail shaker instead. The lid is a great feature, and has proven itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 If I was going to change my method, I'd go with the drink shaker for simplicity, low cost, and easy to find. In my case I do the melting in my neighbor's small forge (he's a blacksmith), which is not tall enough to put the shaker in. I simply use a small SS bowl with a pc of steel over top for a lid. I actually just made a pound or so the other day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firetech Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have a decent amount of powdered Al. Can this be used in production? or will it somehow alter the product.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyboy Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 It's a waste of powdered Al for one. There will also be a lot of slag since every exposed surface will have an oxide layer on it. I bet there are tons of places one can find Aluminium on if you look for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yankie Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Well I got a kilo of MgAl chunks from Cooperman, put them through a blender, and then sorted the different sizes. I ended up with around 650g of 20-100 mesh, and 350g of -100 mesh. barely any passed through a 200 mesh screen so I just mixed it in with the -100 mesh stuff. I am surprised and dissapointed as to how little of it passed star grade fineness. I will just have to buy some 250 mesh I guess, or get off my ass and build a ball mill. Well at least I have alot of stuff for comets, go getters, and silver streamers (not to mention strobes) Heres the MgAl as I bought it:http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6879/pictures123456001od4.th.jpg This is the 20-100 mesh:http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3403/pictures1234567007zz0.jpg and the -100 mesh:http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3284/pictures1234567008yo4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Well I got a kilo of MgAl chunks from Cooperman, put them through a blender, and then sorted the different sizes. I ended up with around 650g of 20-100 mesh, and 350g of -100 mesh. barely any passed through a 200 mesh screen so I just mixed it in with the -100 mesh stuff. I am surprised and dissapointed as to how little of it passed star grade fineness. I will just have to buy some 250 mesh I guess, or get off my ass and build a ball mill. Well at least I have alot of stuff for comets, go getters, and silver streamers (not to mention strobes) Heres the MgAl as I bought it:http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6879/pictures123456001od4.th.jpg This is the 20-100 mesh:http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3403/pictures1234567007zz0.jpg and the -100 mesh:http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3284/pictures1234567008yo4.jpg Build the ball mill... you can't really get by in pyro without one. I just finished milling my MgAl I made few weeks ago. So far I've seived it to -60+100 (for Dragon eggs per Mumbles) and -100. The -100 mesh will be separated into -100+200 and -200 when I get a few minutes. I've got to say though, I love that shaker machine. Just load it up and go do something else for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yankie Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Build the ball mill... you can't really get by in pyro without one. I just finished milling my MgAl I made few weeks ago. So far I've seived it to -60+100 (for Dragon eggs per Mumbles) and -100. The -100 mesh will be separated into -100+200 and -200 when I get a few minutes. I've got to say though, I love that shaker machine. Just load it up and go do something else for awhile. I have a ball mill, infact I have 2, I was talking about making one with a 6" PVC jar and steel media. I am currently using 2 4" plastic jars with lead media which wont work for MgAl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 I have a ball mill, infact I have 2, I was talking about making one with a 6" PVC jar and steel media. I am currently using 2 4" plastic jars with lead media which wont work for MgAl All you need then is some steel media, but you will have to dedicate one of the jars. I mill my MgAl in a ~4" peanut butter jar with various (mostly 1/2"-3/4") to steel ball bearings...takes awhile, but works fine. I just sieved my -100 mesh into into -100+200 and -200. The jar won't last for too many batches though. I use that jar and the steel media for MgAl and bentonite (kitty litter )ONLY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I've got my Mg stash, plenty of Al, and I need to get off my ass and make some of this magic material. We also MUST set up some sort of a group buy, and get a half ton or so of stainless mill media. Ball mill media has always been an issue in this hobby in general. There have been workarounds, but in certain cases like this one, there just is no substitute for good stainless steel. I've emailed a supplier in Asia before, but they never wrote back. Would anyone be interested in a group by of stainless media? Even in bulk, it's going to be expensive, but not 1/10th as expensive as buying stainless balls, which are usually made for ball bearings, and have tolerances that cause them to be costly. All we need are crude balls or slugs, not perfect polished spheres that are +- 0.000001" or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwezxc12 Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I might. Brass cylinders/balls, too (more so, actually). My copper jacketed media is beginning to show deformation and wear after serious use in the 8in mill jar. Not really interested in Alumina...density seems too low for it to be as efficient as brass, SS, or lead. I'm guessing 300 in3 will be enough for my big and med jar. Keep me in the loop if you score a deal. I'm nearly to the point of ordering brass hex or bar stock and meditating at the band saw at work for a few hours cutting them into milling media. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I'm in a similar situation as you. I've seriously looked into getting some brass round rod, and cutting it by hand with a hacksaw, or similar time consuming/jagged cutting tool. I've been looking into casting my own lead too, but I am still a bit wary of contamination and such. I only really mill BP and BP related compositions, so I'm not too worried about copper contamination with chlorates or AP. I'd probably pick up some ceramic for certain individual chemicals. I dunno if 3/8" is big enough, or what kind it is, but there is a HUGE lot of 3/8" Steel on ebay right now. Looks to be about 16,000 linear feet for around $350, pickup only in NC. http://cgi.ebay.com/3-8-inch-steel-round-b...93%3A1|294%3A50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tentacles Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Swede, I'd be interested in some SS media, what we need to find is a place in China that has a machine that can shear 1/2" rod. I'd take 50lbs if it's under $3/lb. Which it could be these days, with the price of metals as low as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 3 years ago I bought a 16-foot piece of 3/4" Brass rod stock and used a Milwaukee-look-alike chopsaw to cut it into pieces 3/4" long. Deburred well with a sanding disk in the drill, and haven't looked back since. Worth the investment, for me at least. They're still almost pristine. With all that's happened in the last 2 years they've gone unused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 I like and use my brass media, especially for BP, but I've noticed significant staining of the brass... not that I care what the brass looks like, but it indicates that there are chemical reactions occurring between the Cu or Zn and the material being milled. Probably excess paranoia, but I'd like to go towards more stainless steel if possible. If you locate enough SS bar stock, find a local machine shop... I guarantee they will have BIG bandsaws, and they could probably feed an entire bundle of 1/2" or 3/4" SS bars all at once, and chop it up for a modest bill. Tell them the length tolerance is +/- 0.100" or so, otherwise they'll cut them to exactly the same length and the bill may go up. Just a thought... hacksawing hundreds of slugs would SUCK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 I like and use my brass media, especially for BP, but I've noticed significant staining of the brass... not that I care what the brass looks like, but it indicates that there are chemical reactions occurring between the Cu or Zn and the material being milled. Probably excess paranoia, but I'd like to go towards more stainless steel if possible. If you locate enough SS bar stock, find a local machine shop... I guarantee they will have BIG bandsaws, and they could probably feed an entire bundle of 1/2" or 3/4" SS bars all at once, and chop it up for a modest bill. Tell them the length tolerance is +/- 0.100" or so, otherwise they'll cut them to exactly the same length and the bill may go up. Just a thought... hacksawing hundreds of slugs would SUCK. I get staining on my brass media as well. Must be the sulfur or KNO3, when I mill straight charcoal to airfloat, they come out clean again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 It's probably the sulfur. One could probably splash some vinegar or HCl on the media to find out. It's harder to tell with copper than silver though where the oxide and sulfide are different colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swede Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 It could be the zinc content of the brass that is reacting a bit... zinc sulfide? One could go with bronze media, but now the cost doubles. I'm guessing the staining is not a factor or any sort of danger, just a mild nuisance. But it is a curiosity. I've sent a few feelers out on the SS mill media. We'll see if anyone answers. Just like bulk Chinese chemicals, or anything bulk Chinese (remember the ceramic media guy? 1 ton minimum?) it seems you need to order an entire cargo container full of the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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