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Safe milsim prop advice


Karma

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I have been searching the suppliers section, but I can't seem to find all that I need at one place.

Could anyone recommend one place to get all of these items?:

 

Charcoal powder

sulphur

potassium nitrate

a scale

and anything else that I would need to make black powder

 

Thanks everyone

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http://www.skylighter.com/

Is the only place I can think of to get all those in one order, it'll cost you a pretty penny and I don't know if they'll sell it all in the same order but you could ask and see, and you do have to give them your personal info just FYI.

EDIT, I don't think they sell Ballmilling media, but it's not too hard to make.

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Skylighter sells "BP manufacturing kits" with all the chemicals necessary to make decent BP. The mechanical mixing is up to you, although if you don't ball mill it, it's going to be poor.

 

There's a guy on eBay that sells ball mills. I think he makes them himself, and they are pretty nice. Do a search for "ball mill", and the guy I am thinking of sells YELLOW painted mils. You can't miss it.

 

Stuff you'll need:

 

1) Ball mill + jar

2) media - quickest for you is going to be about 1,000 1/2" lead balls. It won't be cheap

3) the chemicals to make BP

4) a screen, to make granules. I don't think you need to press it.

 

Look at this link, ball milling 101, at skylighter...

 

http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_...le.asp?Item=110

 

There it is, all you need to know. It's not hard to do.

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Go to a home improvement store, get stump remover, an empty paint can, and dusting sulfur from the garden section. The stump remover is potassium nitrate nearly pure. Take the paint tin, poke a few holes in the top, fill it with sticks (barkless) and put it on a fire till smoke stops coming out of the holes. Ta-da!!! all your chems readily and easily available!!!
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I'm not certain how much BP you will need, but it might be best to simply contact a local pyro (we got anyone near him?) and ask if you can make a (few?) batches of BP in their mill. It might be as simple as providing some chemicals and helping with the grunt work (like granulating).

 

This would also allow you to get a feel for the process, equipment needed and some instruction from someone with experience.

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This is an excellent idea and beneficial for both parties I think.

 

Karma gets cheaper BP, no hassle of making it or searching for the supplies and a feel for the process and usage of BP. The supplier gets to do his hobby, make a penny doing it and a grunt to help :-)

 

I'd be all for it (providing a sane nature of the one purchasing and a written and signed proof to not be held responsible at any point) but I'm from Belgium ...

 

EDIT: Still calculating on a price for the finished product though ... chemicals + time + wear & tear ballmill + electricity

I guess it's a bit different for all, my time is precious to me, chems are fairly cheap. Electricity and ballmill usage should be next to nothing.

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Although not used as a high explosive in a bullet,

Technically, the bullet is the projectile. The whole round is more correctly called a cartridge. There are of course military large caliber projectiles that contain explosives, but these are not used in civilian-caliber ammunition.

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Although not used as a high explosive in a bullet,

Technically, the bullet is the projectile. The whole round is more correctly called a cartridge. There are of course military large caliber projectiles that contain explosives, but these are not used in civilian-caliber ammunition.

Chemichaly, NC is a HE.

But as sylar said, it is not used as an explosive in ussual gun bullets. As I remember there are small balls made of NC with NG and other chems in the last side of the bullet and they burn only on surface. Because of burning balls hot gases are produced and they push bullet forward.

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If you're worried about reload times and a large report just get a report cannon that fires 20ga shotgun shell blanks. We use them in our airsoft simulations all of the time. The concussion from that puppy could be felt all the way across the 120 acre field. Plus, Shotgun shells are easy to obtain, legal, and safe (make sure you use BLANKS!!!!). Very loud though, we use them to simulate air strikes.
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You guys have tons of information. I can't thank you enough.

 

I live in Federal Way, Washington, so if anyone wants to help me put some BP together, that would be great.

 

That's interesting about obtaining chems at the home improvement store. How do others view this idea?

 

I have been experimenting lighting safety fuse with percussion caps. It usually works, but I was curious if there might be a way to prepare the end of the fuse to light more easily from the primer, maybe if I dipped the end of the fuse in a slurry of bp, or some other chem? Can anyone help with this?

 

I have been speaking with the club about all of the ideas that you all have shared with me. They are very excited about it.

 

Here is our web page:

http://1st-sword.com/

 

If anyone is ever in the area, we would love for you to stop by, and maybe join one of our events. They are a lot of fun, and a great challenge.

 

Thanks again everyone.

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That's interesting about obtaining chems at the home improvement store. How do others view this idea?

 

It may be expensive, but It's quite doable, Dusting Sulfur, Lump Charcoal (Briquettes don't work well for BP) and stump remover for KNO3 (I've used spectracide brand, I've heard Grants works well to)

 

But, there is a chemical supplier in Monroe WA,

email undergroundgadgets@comcast.net and ask him for a list of chems, I think he does local pick up, I've bought from him and he's a great guy, very nice and great service, he might also be able to give you some more pointers on makeing BP.

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Ya, but with the Home improvement like I recommended, you can use cash. No trails, no names. Grants is pure KNO3 and I totally recommend it.
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Well now, if you want to be really inconspicuous I'd imagine buying everything as "gardening supplies" from separate stores would be your best bet, or just buying commercial Black Powder, but where's the fun in that? ^_^
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hst45 writes:

 

"To hear this message in English, please press 1 now"

 

"To hear this in gibberish, please press 2 now"

 

(Presses 2)

 

Chemichaly, NC is a HE.

But as sylar said, it is not used as an explosive in ussual gun bullets. As I remember there are small balls made of NC with NG and other chems in the last side of the bullet and they burn only on surface. Because of burning balls hot gases are produced and they push bullet forward.

I'm not talking about the propellant, which as you correctly state may be ball shaped, or flake, or stick, I'm talking about the fact the the *bullet* is the actual projectile that punches a hole in a target. The ammunition that one loads into the firearm isn't a *bullet*, the bullet is a component of the cartridge. You are in fact correct that modern civilian smokeless powders are "double-based", being made from both nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine.

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I'll have to check out the supplier on Monroe.

 

For priming fuse to light easier, what is the best way to make the bp slurry?

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I'll have to check out the supplier on Monroe.

 

For priming fuse to light easier, what is the best way to make the bp slurry?

Just BP powder and water. Or Iso alchohol and water dries faster. Nothing high tech about it.

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Generally I would dip the slurry primed fuse into a pile of finely granulated dry BP. It will give a rough surface to take the fire more easily. Cutting the visco itself on an angle, and then slurry priming should pretty much ensure ignition.
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That makes sense.

 

If we were going to create the charge by containing it in a card tube, how much bp should we use to get a good report, while still being safe?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Karma,

 

Have you looked into using a concussion mortar? I read your second post and you stated it would be in a vented cylinder and in a pot and NOT handheld. You also mentioned wanting something "rechargeable". I would say the concussion mortar would possibly be the way to go. Look on skylighter or firefox for their mortars. I have had outstanding results with the mortar I purchased from FF.

 

Just another alternative to some of the already great suggestions.

 

Please post back on here and let us know what you end up doing and the results. I know I for one am interested in how it turns out.

 

Stay safe.

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