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New firing box


dpotter

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Here is some phone cam pics of my new firing box..sorry about the quality, couldn't find a camera. It has 7 firing switches on each strand of cat5 cable with a ground on the 8th strand. the other end of the cat5 is connected to another modular jack connected to a bus (but i think now i will change this to a push terminal setup for quicker time). Let me know what you think

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/062907_2306.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/062907_2306a.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/062907_2307.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/062907_2336.jpg

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OOOoo looks nice, i'd like some better photo's if thats ok.
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Here are some better quality pictures..enjoy

 

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/master035.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/master037.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thats not a bad idea at all using Cat-5 cable, if you can find it cheap, All my shows are wired and i've been just buying 1000ft rolls of dual stranded 22 gauge wire for about $35. I might have to try Cat-5 though.

 

Good Idea...

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Very nice!

 

Its scary how closely that resembles an idea i worked out about 5 days ago!

 

I was going to use that same kind of project box from radioshack, the key safety switch, but then those flip up safety switches with the red cover for the individual buttons... I would have 5 of those, and 5 multiple position rotary switches (number of positions on the switch would equal number of output plugs) instead of Cat5, i was going to use 6 conductor (data/fax) telephone line, so 5 cues and 1 ground each, very similar to yours. Then in the field i would have slaves using the stereo input tabs things. 8 conductors on one of those, so i would ground 3, and use the other 5 for the cues. I would going to mount them in the small project boxes.

 

My switch/rotary switch setup is to conserve switches as $2-5 a piece from radioshack or frys is common... Making things get real expensive real fast. Its not as fast and convenient as you have to unflip switches before changing the rotary knob position or it will set a different device off though.

 

But 5 flip switches (+5 knobs) * 3 positions on each knob = 15 individual cues.

5 switches * 4 positions = 20 cues.

5 switches * 5 positions = 25 cues.

...

5 switches * 10 pos = 50 cues.

 

I have not bought anything for the project aside from some aligator clips for experimentation and one 8 slot (4 speaker) "rail" for one slave unit thus far. (Just bought a radio scanner and didn't want to just spend a ton of money on this too.)

 

 

As to the connections:

For the cat5 cable did you buy it with the end connectors already on it? Or did you put them on yourself? For the phone data cable i was going to buy it in 100ft lengths, and put the ends on myself, but im not sure how easy it is to do without the tool to snap them on. My main reason for phone data over cat5 is that 5 cues seems more round in my head than 7, but having seen your success on a very similar idea im now considering changing to cat5 and having 7 switches and 7 knobs.

 

7 switches (+ 7 knobs) * 3 positions = 21 cues.

7 * 5 = 35 cues.

7 * 10 = 70 cues.

 

Was wiring to the female cat5 sockets hard?

 

Edit: If you posted this in june... perhaps i read it and subconciously thought out my design later... hmmm... nice regardless!

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It looks nice, just gotta get those switches the same color! Are the diodes in the firing panel or on the bus?
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The cat5 was left over from a job i did. I wire networks in my spare time for money. I terminated the cat5

myself, with an rj-45 male plug. I'm using an Ideal Telemaster. As for the female rj-45 modular plugs, they come

with a punch down to make the connections. You just have to make sure the wires all match in the right order

to make them work right. The micro pushbutton switches come in a pack with half red and half black, which is the

reason for the different colors. With the switches being a momentary on normally open push button i haven't though about

putting diodes in the circuit, but i should get out the meter and see if their are any problems with the flow.

I am using nichrome wire to light the fuse. I haven't had any problems, but i will take any input to improve my design.

Im putting some pics up to help explain what im talking about.http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/30-496.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/cabling054.jpghttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/cabling064.jpg

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Thanks, that explains alot!
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Hey do you have any plans for your box?
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Im trying to get a drawing done in MS Visio i will try to post it when i get finished..if possable.

Unless anyone knows of a better program to draw a schematic with

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Here is a picture of the nichrome fusehttp://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/IMG_6342.jpg
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  • 11 months later...

Bump..Here is a attempt at a schematic..Let me know if this helps at all.. :D

I think its right

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/12.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

Nice system. I've been building remote systems and selling them on ebay. I've got a 4 cue system I'm currently sell. My job causes me to spend a lot of nights in hotels, so to not go crazy I build these little systems.

 

MadMacs

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  • 1 month later...
Bump..Here is a attempt at a schematic..Let me know if this helps at all.. :D

I think its right

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x261/dpotter_photos/12.jpg

 

 

Sorry to write on an old thread, but theres something i dont catch. I just cant understand how you can more cue's by adding differant channels for each button? Ex. You have 4 channels with 5 buttons, makes you 20 cues.

 

I cant understand how you can get more cues, while still using the same buttons?

Anyone helpfull?

Edited by Greenman
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Start with something simpler until you understand the concept 2 buttons, two channels, gives four cues.

 

In order to ignite an ematch needs two connections, one to +ve and one to -ve. If you just pull one side of the igniter up to the +ve voltage but leave the other side disconnected (floating) nothing will happen.

 

So each button is connected to two ematches the other side of each match goes to a different channel select switch which then connects to -ve.

 

I select channel 1 and push button 1, the ematches at position channel1-cue1 and channel2-cue1 both have one side pulled high but only channel1-cue1 has the other side connected to -ve to complete the circuit and therefore only one match fires. Change the channel select switch and push the same button, now the other match has a connection to -ve and fires.

 

I hope that makes sense, if not let me know and I will try and draw some pictures or something.

Edited by mike_au
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Thanks a lot mate. Got a little clearer there.

 

Tell me if i got it right: You have to "rows" of wires. Row one which goes from negative, and row two goes from positive. Like this with example of 2x2cues=4cues:

 

Negative-----------|1--|2

| |

Positive------------|a--|b

 

So, say i press channel 1, and A or B i get connection 1A or 1B. Channel 2 and A or B i get connection 2A or 2B? If thats it, il run down straight away and upgrade my panel :)

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I don't like ascii-art schematics so I made a picture.

 

You have two firing buttons up the top, and a 4 way rotary switch down the bottom as your channel selector (that way you can't accidentally have two channels turned on at the same time), the resistors are actually ematches in disguise :)

post-6492-1238648850_thumb.png

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