calebkessinger Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Thanks Lloyd. I have to admit I haven't watched the vid.. but did listen that he was using starch and liked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CityPigeonPyro Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 Wow. I loved reading this thread and all that to find out that there is a difference in using Laundry Starch instead of just regular Corn Starch in making black match. I made my QM with dextrin and didn't feel comfortable with the results. Making next batch exactly like Ned did. Just wish APC search on topics was a little better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakudama Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) My first BM method came from Skylighter. Need Gorski article Tiger Willow Shells in 2½ Days. https://www.skylighter.com/blogs/how-to-make-fireworks/tiger-willow-ball-shells He milled 30oz. KN, 6oz. Charcoal, 4oz. Sulphur, and 2 oz. Dextrin for his black match. My math came to 75-15-10-5 equivalency. The match worked great until a very humid day, it went limp and sputtering inconsistently. I'd tried to quickmatch a series of mines together, it was random timing, hangfires, well, not working. We noobs have to start somewhere, who wouldn't try Neds formula? I have since learned that dextrin is a bit hygroscopic. Not Neds fault, in the op video he used Argo. I had to give up on dextrin bound match too because it's humid here.I am an experienced home Brewer, so gelatinized starch and enzyme conversion to dextrin is quite familiar. I have no problem understanding the concept of laundry starch being gelatinized, then dried out. I suppose you could boil cornstarch to gelatinize it first before mixing it with the BP, but just adding laundry starch sounds much easier to accomplish the same result. I will most certainly do that next time.I have learned that knowing that you don't know something makes you much more teachable than when you think you know something you actually don't know. (if you know what I mean ;-) Edited January 13, 2020 by Shakudama 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CityPigeonPyro Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Shakudama - Where are you from? It is very humid here in South Louisiana. I am making my next batch with the laundry starch. I am hoping for much better and reliable results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakudama Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I'm in Ohio. The particular day was cool, and as dusk approached, warm moist air blew in and dew formed on everything. Quite a bit damper than usual, just happened to be on July 4th. Wilted my quick match. Good luck to you, I think we're on to something here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlking59 Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I haven't used laundry starch but I did see Ned's video. If he used LS then I will be trying it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CityPigeonPyro Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Is there something that you can spray and coat the match with after it is made to make it water proof? I know you can make the lacquer but is there anything easier and quicker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkWhisperer Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) Rubber cement might do the trick for waterproofing. The quick-drying alkane solvents shouldn't mess with the water-soluble/miscible components--KNO3 & dextrin/starch. But uniform coating might be an issue, as well as burn rate/consistency and possible slowing from the new rubber coating/fuel. Likely the rubber coating would render it useless for quickmatch. Are you trying to waterproof BM for land uses (i.e., protect from rain/humidity) or for underwater use? I store my uncoated BM in cardboard tubes with a few gel packs. Never had a problem with humidity. Edited January 23, 2020 by SharkWhisperer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CityPigeonPyro Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Protect from humidity. It is extremely humid in south Louisiana. you never know how it will be and setting up and having everything out can get effected by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkWhisperer Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 (edited) Sheesh, CPP, I'd just store my match in cardboard tubes or Al foil wrapping with some silica gel packs that absorb atmospheric water. Or CaCl2 packs from the dollar store. Super cheap insurance. Spend a lot of time getting sassy in Florida, similar clime to yours in LA, and my goods never get "wet". But, the humidity is so high that you have to check them on occasion for long storage, and maybe change out your protection All my goods, including BP, get a silica gel packet or two; changed out as/if necessary. You can blow pyro in the Swamp!!! No prob ! Edited January 24, 2020 by SharkWhisperer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BetICouldMake1 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Protect from humidity. It is extremely humid in south Louisiana. you never know how it will be and setting up and having everything out can get effected by it. Where I live in PA the average humidity is 78% and I have no issues storing black match. The first time I made it I did use too much dextrin based on a bad tutorial I saw (something like 10%, and that created issues, but 3-5% dex and the match is fine. If you are really concerned you could store it inside a length of pvc pipe or something similar, along with some silica packs like Shark suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 (edited) Can anyone actually tell me what traditional method uses an ultra bright Hi Vis orange cone please? What is actually traditional blackmatch fuse? One fat string with powder,? Five thin strings with powder, five strings in one solid block of powder? Or anything/something else? Let's face it there are so many varieties of "Bickford" like timing fuse, only the original patents will tell the original design but they are all simply a BP core in a textile tube with fibres and films and maybe bitumen. How many types of Blackmatch are there, or have there ever been. Has anyone any references from historic text (Bate, Audot etc) of the style of fuse available from the early days of fireworks? Bate - https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=30533799901Cheaper copies exist! Print on demand Audot - https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=1045666565 Edited February 21, 2020 by Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkWhisperer Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 His videos are very informative BUT I'm developing a resentment with his site firerorking.com. It seems that if you try to make any changes to any of his methods or teqniques and then mention it on the forum it is quickly snuffed out by a closed minded audience. I use a nc/bp slurry for bm but I won't talk about it on his site for fear of getting roasted and directed to watch his video for proper bm. I'm just always looking for an easier, softer way in all aspects of my building and want to bounce ideas off of open minded people for suggestions and constructive criticism or even just to BS.Just saw this old post. Curious about the characteristics of your NC/BP blackmatch versus usual dextrin-reinforced... Burn rate? Spark spit? Flexibility? Flaking? Ease of integration into cotton string versus aqueous slurry? Suitability for quickmatch? What concentration NC do you use? I'd imagine clean-up could occasionally become "complicated" after a bout of NC/BP match making! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkWhisperer Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 His videos are very informative BUT I'm developing a resentment with his site firerorking.com. It seems that if you try to make any changes to any of his methods or teqniques and then mention it on the forum it is quickly snuffed out by a closed minded audience. I use a nc/bp slurry for bm but I won't talk about it on his site for fear of getting roasted and directed to watch his video for proper bm. I'm just always looking for an easier, softer way in all aspects of my building and want to bounce ideas off of open minded people for suggestions and constructive criticism or even just to BS.Hola Neighbor, Hoping you'll get around to answering my queries from several days ago when you get a minute. Am planning to whip up some blackmatch this coming weekend if the weather holds, and would love to try your NC slurry. So, your experiences and tips would be helpful. Tx, SW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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