Bcorso85 Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 (edited) Hey Fellas,It's been a while since I've posted, so how is everyone? I hope you are all doing well.For about 3 years now I have had about a pound of uncoated -325 magnesium that I could never really use. That being said I have never used magnesium in star or comet formulas before. Always magnalium or aluminum. So after some quick research I decided linseed oil is the right choice for me. How ever I did not heat it up in any way. I moistened the magnesium until it was perfect sand castle consistency! I then screened it on to kraft paper to dry before I re screen it in a finer mesh. Sound good guys? I just want to make sure the process is really as easy at it was. And to make sure I didn't miss something important. This will not be used with any AP formulas. Feed back would be great! Thanks,Benjamin Edited March 23, 2016 by Bcorso85 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueComet24 Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I don't have any experience with magnesium, but I have heard that linseed oil can react exothermically with cotton cloth. I'm not sure if this would pose a hazard with other organics such as paper or charcoal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIL Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I coat my 100-200mesh magnesium with linseed oil.325 mesh may burn too fast for normal color stars,but can be an excellent fuel for go-getters. The oxidation of linseed oil pose a fire hazard only when the ventilation is poor.I added 3% linseed oil ,diluted it in alcohol for an even coating then laid the wet magnesium onto a large tray . No fire has ever started ,proving that it's a safe practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zumber Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Linseed oil takes too long to dry....I dont recommend to use it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schroedinger Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 The actual drying of linseed oil is a polymerisatikn not a real drying. Now wait at least 2 weeks. The problem with xotton cloths is an other. The polymerisation needs oxigen to happen and is exothermic. The fault some people do is to use a cloth for applying linseed oil and then take the cloth or multiple of it and stuff them into a bin. Now these cloth balls have the problem that they insulate the inside quite good. So when the polymerisation happens, it doesn't get cooled down. But it also reacts faster at raised temperatures. If the raxk gets layed flat on a surface, you don't get that problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bcorso85 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 I coat my 100-200mesh magnesium with linseed oil.325 mesh may burn too fast for normal color stars,but can be an excellent fuel for go-getters. The oxidation of linseed oil pose a fire hazard only when the ventilation is poor.I added 3% linseed oil ,diluted it in alcohol for an even coating then laid the wet magnesium onto a large tray . No fire has ever started ,proving that it's a safe practice. Thanks for the feed back. I remember using -325 mesh magnalium for stars in the past. At least I seem to remember! Thanks for the advice. My plan was to most likely use the magnesium for a case when I need a large but fast burning comet in a canister shell. Hopefully! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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