"Toro" question....

[braddsn]

I of course am new to Pyro, and have yet to roll a single star. But I have watched hours of video and have done a lot of reading... including several posts on this forum dealing with the "Toro" method. To me, the Toro method looks like the way to go. But there again, I have yet to roll a single star! But it seems like especially for the stars that are high charcoal (TT), this would be the answer. My question is, has anyone used the Toro method exclusively? Couldn't a person use this method only??? I know that it is more suitable for large batches... but surely there is someone out there who is using only the Toro method. Seems like making a slurry with your comp would make for easier rolling.

[Zumber]

Yes I used this method.

[pyrokid]

I don't understand how someone could start the rolling process with toro. My cores stick together if I spritz too much water, so they certainly would stick together if I poured toro mix in. The stars get a better tolerance for the addition of water at about 1/4" in diameter, when their mass is large enough to keep them from sticking.

 

I occasionally have issues with soluble colorants migrating between layers. Wouldn't this be exacerbated if toro was used?

[Jakenbake]

+1 on what PK said. I think this may work a little better if you use lead shot for the cores. Try both methods and see what you prefer.

[Mumbles]

SGRS is the preferred binder for the toro method. Anyone who has used it can attest to the length of time it takes to activate. While kind of a pain in the butt for certain aspects, it is advantageous in the toro method. After the inner star is dry, you can roll on a slurry and get it dried out with powdered comp without any real worry of the inner star softening and mixing with the outer layer.

 

There are always color change relays of course.

[TYRONEEZEKIEL]

Toro should only be started after the cores hit about 1/4" any smaller and it's too hard to keep the cores from forming a clumpy disastrous mess. Before that just use spray and sprinkle

[mkn]

I used the toro method to smooth some "raspberry" round coal stars they were around 3/8 " when I used the slurry, worked well.

 

For Coal round stars I like a 50 % rubbing alcohol mix and Dextrin to bind. The large bottle of alcohol is $2, plenty for rolling multiple pounds of stars. The alcohol breaks the water surface tension so the coal rolls really well. ( yes learned that after the rolling the Raspberries ) and also helps them dry quicker.

 

I use mustard seeds now for cores. 1 level 1/4 tsp is good for 1-2 lbs composition and 1/4 "- 3/8" stars. ( a lot of variables but a good starting point) atomizing spritzer is KEY ! for the first stages, then a regular spray bottle can take over when they are BB size or so.

 

Matt

[Bobosan]

I use mustard seeds now for cores. 1 level 1/4 tsp is good for 1-2 lbs composition and 1/4 "- 3/8" stars. ( a lot of variables but a good starting point) atomizing spritzer is KEY ! for the first stages, then a regular spray bottle can take over when they are BB size or so.

 

Matt

 

These bottles are small (2.5oz) but cheap and work well in small diameter roller bowls. All the larger spritzers I've used won't go into the bowl upright and when you turn them sideways, they can't pick up solution through the straw. There are fixes for that problem but using the smaller sprayers was easiest fix.