Rising star effect, and fuses for effect?

[braddsn]

I have noticed that on most ball shell pictures that I see with a rising star hot glued to the top of the shell, the star is cylindrical. I assume these are pumped or pressed correct? Do I need to add a star pump to my arsenal of tools? Or is there another way to do this? Also, as for the pre-cut pieces of effect fuse.. (i.e. strobing, flying fish, etc), do you all use these often in your shells? It seems like an easy way to add some effect. I am getting ready to order time fuse and visco, and wondering if I should add some of the effect fuse as well.

[Zumber]

the star is cylindrical. I assume these are pumped or pressed correct? Do I need to add a star pump to my arsenal of tools? Or is there another way to do this?

Yes its a pumped star.

and this star on a shell is known as 'Comet'.

you can order star pump.

Another way to do this is, to use doctor's syringe; cut the needle side part & pump stars.

[schroedinger]

A doctors syringe works like mentioned above, but if you really want to get serious with these things, buy a couple of pumps in different diameters, it is much easier to work with these then with a syringe.

A syringe will be god to produce about 50 to 100 stars efore you need to exchange it. But make sure not to get one of the new type where the inner stamp breaks away if a certain force is applied (these are getting used to make the reuse of disposable syringes impossible).

Edited August 12, 2014 by schroedinger

[Mumbles]

I wouldn't really bother with syringes at all. Basically they produce cylindrical shaped cut stars. All of the advantages of pumping go out the window when you need to get them that wet.

 

A piece of copper or PVC pipe and an appropriately sized dowel will be serviceable, cheap, and 100x more durable.

 

Also, rising tails shouldn't be just glued on with hot glue. You really need to cover the sides with paper or tape, or anything that will block the sides from taking fire. You want to have the comet burn from only one end, other wise you run the risk of the comet melting the hot glue and falling off. You get a longer effect with the sides taped/pasted up too.

[braddsn]

Thanks guys. And what about the pieces of fuse (flying fish, strobing, etc) for effect? Do any of you use those in your shells?? Mumbles, I am glad you pointed that out.. I did notice that the comets I saw glued to shells all had paper wrapped around the sides. I will do it that way when I get to that step. I assume the exposed end of the comet would need primed as well...

[schroedinger]

If you prime the exposed end or not, depends on your tail composition. If it for example TT maybe with some titanium added then you don't need to prime, if it is a color or metall glitter star then just prime the top just like normal. Also to make sure it ignites, just ad a thin bp slury over the prime and dip in 2 FA. (It's not 100% needed, just personal preference)

[nater]

I think the special effects fuse work fine in very small shells or inserts. I like to use it inside headings for 1/4" rockets which I typically use 3/4" - 1" headings. The flame front from fuse is small, that the effect is lost as a distance. 1.5" - 2" shells are probably the sweet spot. I would not use them in larger shells or anything viewed at a longer distance.

[Mumbles]

I prime all my rising comets, no matter the formula. I prefer just tying a few pieces of blackmatch over the top to make sure the lift lights it. An additional prime painted on, and dipped in granular BP, as Schroedinger described, is also helpful if you want to be 100% positive it lights for slightly harder to ignite compositions like silver streamers. The blackmatch usually does the trick, but I combine it with a prime if I want to be sure.