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Detonation


TranslucentDragon

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That is exactly the way I take it also.

 

I can say without doubt, you can take almost all of the above and detonate it with the right package and cap.. Double base "like Bullseye" is extremely impressive with a good cap. Kidd you not!

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  • 1 month later...

This is true, because the hottest point of the flame is at the top. And at the bottom you can, because it's not too hot there

Edited by lokhaalma11
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This is true, because the hottest point of the flame is at the top. And at the bottom you can, because it's not too hot there

WTF is that? Does it affect the price of tea in China?

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That is exactly the way I take it also.

 

I can say without doubt, you can take almost all of the above and detonate it with the right package and cap.. Double base "like Bullseye" is extremely impressive with a good cap. Kidd you not!

It’s nitroglycerine, basically. Made ‘safe” But sure you can still “anger” it :D

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  • 4 months later...
Is there any safe way to make a cap? In the books I've seen, you'd be fortunate to live through the experience of making, for example, mercury fulminate.
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Is there any safe way to make a cap? In the books I've seen, you'd be fortunate to live through the experience of making, for example, mercury fulminate.

That’s prolly not gonna be discussed here, as it’s an HE making related topic. For the record, that is something I’d never mess with tho.

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DDT is a fascinating subject. In 1947 a freighter full of AN quietly burned for some time before detonating, killing 600 people. I don't think anybody understands what caused the transition. Is it possible DDT could occur in a pyrotechnic device filled with standard flash?
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  • 2 months later...

The only useful definition is blast pressure.

You have to use a metal "witness" plate and see if it puts a decent dent or hole in it. For example a rifle barrel pressure will be around 50,000psi. But low performance ANFO will be around 1,000,000psi.

 

Salt grain sized pieces of silver azide blow 3mm holes in the side of a soda can that leave dents on the opposite side. No amount of black powder will cut neat holes in metal.(brisance)

 

Critical diameter is also important. It's the minimum diameter of a charge that can keep detonating. Rdx is 3mm and ANFO is a couple inches.

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  • 4 months later...

On the topic of smokeless powder, double base smokeless is not only NC but nitroglycerin as well. I believe Bullseye has the most NG @ 40% if I remember correctly, which isn't a negligible amount. And obviously burns instead of detonates based on the very few shattered barrels and/or receivers. And of those few I think most are linked to material imperfections, excessive age and/or use, or an obstructed barrel and not because of an 'earth shattering boom' aka detonation.

 

I'm far from an expert but it's been my understanding that a detonation happens when a shockwave travels thru the material at sufficient speed/energy that molecular bonds are broken releasing a tremendous amount of energy almost simultaneously. And no heat, flame, or oxygen is required as with burning, and many times there are no visible flames. This is why Tannerite detonates because the bullet is traveling fast enough to impart enough energy to start the bond breaking. When it burns there is heat/flame and oxygen and the material/fuel heats and destructively oxidizes like a normal fire which lacks the necessary energy to break the molecular bonds that releases the explosive energy.

 

In something like flash powder the particles are very small with lots of surface area so burns fast like a small piece of tissue paper vs a log. And it also has its own oxygen supply and isn't slowed down by having to use what's in the air which is consumed and takes time for more to move in and replace the supply. Without the limits a very fast burn results, releasing lots of energy in a small instant. Metals also burn hot and higher temperatures result in higher pressure which increases how fast it burns which is also why containment can be important to allow greater pressure. And in some cases the chemicals involved can burn fast and hot enough to release enough energy to start breaking those energetic molecular bonds which adds more energy and it turns into a detonation thru the rest of the material, which is the deflagration detonation transition (DDT - where deflagration means burns really really fast).

 

At least this is my layman understanding of it all...

Tannerite could be a solution to my need, but I need a way to detonate it other than a rifle bullet. I am using black powder or substitute to blow logs that are too big to fit on a small saw mill. The black powder is hard to get and expensive, the black powder substitute is still expensive, but Tannerite is more affordable and locally obtainable, and if I can find a way to detonate it that could lead to other less expensive solutions for my need. So, it seems I need a shock wave with a fast enough rise time and enough energy to work. Could you recommend a way to do that with easily available materials? I can do fuse or electronic ignition.

 

Thanks,

HLB

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A 3-5 gram Vitamin F cartridge would take care of that for you. Technically, this is not to be discussed outside the HE forum however.

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As an addendum- you might consider the power of the product. You do not want toothpicks. Well, maybe ya do but....

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A 3-5 gram Vitamin F cartridge would take care of that for you. Technically, this is not to be discussed outside the HE forum however.

I would like to discuss this. Where is and how does one enter the HE forum?

 

Thanks,

HLB

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An established way of splitting logs along the grain is to use black powder. Better ways include using wedges and a big hammer. Both BP and wedges will produce timber with whatever twist was in the original timber, which usually negates the value of this method for timber, but the product can suit logs for burning.

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I am afraid the government has made black powder too difficult to obtain, and it is too expensive. Yes, I have done five wedges in a 38 inch red oak log swinging an 8 pound sledge in the 100 degree heat and humidity this last summer so that is not going to work at my age. My need for splitting is to use the logs I have on the mill I have and the logs will not fit unless they are split. One of the great things about quartering a log is that you get real quarter sawn lumber which is much better at resisting warpage over time, such as use in ship building. No, I need to go high explosive.

HLB

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I am afraid the government has made black powder too difficult to obtain, and it is too expensive. Yes, I have done five wedges in a 38 inch red oak log swinging an 8 pound sledge in the 100 degree heat and humidity this last summer so that is not going to work at my age. My need for splitting is to use the logs I have on the mill I have and the logs will not fit unless they are split. One of the great things about quartering a log is that you get real quarter sawn lumber which is much better at resisting warpage over time, such as use in ship building. No, I need to go high explosive.

 

HLB

Once again..too powerful a product is going to leave you with splinters. I suggest you procure a ball mill and make your powder. It’s not that complicated. Lots of posts here on mixing, milling, pressing/corning and sorting. Plus..it’s kinda fun :)

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Once again..too powerful a product is going to leave you with splinters. I suggest you procure a ball mill and make your powder. It’s not that complicated. Lots of posts here on mixing, milling, pressing/corning and sorting. Plus..it’s kinda fun :)

Done that before. Need to make Tannerite go off. Thanks anyway though.

 

HLB

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Done that before. Need to make Tannerite go off. Thanks anyway though.

 

HLB

Well..look up a dude named “Mumbles” and send him a PM on HE forum access. Be happy to help, even tho it MAY be a fool’s errand.

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If you want to split timber for planked wood then HE will not be your friend -likely the grain will split in so many places as to make the lumber unusable.

 

I've seen chainsaw mills and band saw mills in the USA, either of these should be better than making shredded wood.

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