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3" YELLOW PEONY


VikingPyrotechnics

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viking: I think it is the cryolite yellow from the Spanish PDF??

 

Nice break, I am seeing a steady improvement with your rolled stars. Improved symmetry and timings.

 

Personally I d shoot a little bit higher, but this is a personal preference of mine.

 

Well done viking, keep it up.

 

best

 

fred

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Yes Fred, that's the kryolith yellow. Unfortunately, sees the yellow on the camera is not as nice as in person.

You were right, round stars make a big difference. :)

I'm a little unsure about the height? For me it also looked too deep.

However, the sound was needed to the bottom about half a second.

That would have to be 160-170 meters in height? But that was never so high? :huh:

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Nice shell VP. I am still trying to perfect my round stars, too. I'm able to get them round now, but I have to start screening them to get them the same size. Good job.

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Lovely shell vp, nice yellow, what are you breaking with ?

 

How were the cores formed/ what were they?

 

Dan.

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Thank you Dan. :)

BP was break on Rice Hulls (5/1) and a bit booster.

Cores for the stars are 1mm steel shot.


VP

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Nice break there. I see some of your stars are jetting at the end of their flight, I also recall that Fred had some similar problems with those exact same stars haha. Maybe a bit more step priming next time for the *perfect* ignition? I like the big break, and also that the shell was not too high. Gives a cooler impression in my opinion.

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#viking: I ve experienced the same weird jetting of my stars when they almost burned out. The jetting did not bother me, and was actually a nice bonus when I d made a mine with these stars. I suspect it has to do with water content during batch startup, but can not wrap my head around it to why this occurs sometimes. It also happend to me with some batches of C based streamers...weird....

 

Your 3"peony looks very nice, nothing wrong with that. Height is also fine, although I would not try to shoot even lower next time.

 

Priming these yellow stars is a bit difficult, barium nitrate stuff is finicky in the ignition department. I ve made a new batch of strobe stars that took a bit longer to ignite when I d used the exact same priming method that had worked fine before.

 

Turned out the amount of anti caking gave me issues in already hard to light formulaes such as strobes. Previous batches I d made with barium nitrate without anti caking lit considerably faster. The author of the PDF told me I could overcome this issue by slightly upping the amount of magnalium . I will upload some strobe shells in the near future, but that particular batch was just weird. I ve made scores of strobe horsetails with those stars, so I am very curious how those will turn out.

 

Sorry for veering off topic, don't get me going about barium nitrate stars. I love them , but special care is needed for effective priming ( 100% ignition, no less).

 

best

 

fred

 

I

Edited by fredhappy
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Fred, your StarMine has prompted me to test this yellow. :D

Perhaps it is the "jetting" from the fact that the mixture burns relatively quickly?
When the stars are smaller, with the burn-up, they are too light and begin to whip around uncontrollably from? I had the same "problem" at a
6 ", where I had used win39.
With the priming I am quite satisfied. I use for this slow BP (for one hour in the mill), + 8% silicon.
I make sure that at the end of the prime-step the stars are "dry".
That no Prime take up more. This gives a rough / porous surface,
very easily catches fire.
Fred, my Bleser White strobe light also always late.?! :huh:
VP
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The jetting/swimming was why I asked about your cores, I was convinced my problem was my cut cores lighting unevenly or the velocity getting lower and the stars thrust taking over.

 

It's interesting about the water content possibly being culprit, it makes sense.

I've seen this happen to rolled stars with heavy round cores before, where the core rolls around making a cavity inside the star.

 

What was the speed and batch size?

 

 

Dan.

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