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Best Ba(NO3)2 Green?


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#41 ExplosiveCoek

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 10:32 AM

Do you have any vid's or some sorts to show the differences? Would be much appreciated.

 

I always found green, aqua and all sorts of green varieties to be a bit dull/blurred. Might be due to the use of parlon as you described.

 

Then again, a lot of vid's I saw online use parlon based comps..



#42 pyrogenius007

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Posted 12 October 2016 - 12:38 AM

Hi,  I would like to try out the green comp. using Barium Nitrate - 55, Magnesium. - 28 and PVC - 17, What would be the ideal binder and prime for these stars.



#43 greenlight

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Posted 12 October 2016 - 08:14 AM

I think the PVC or parlon (whichever you use) is the binder and chlorine donor in one and an organic solvent is used to bind it. Methylene chloride should work if you don't have tetrahydrofuran.
This is the composition info I found that seems similar to the formula you describe:

"The composition leaves lots of ash. Ammonium perchlorate improves it.
Preparation: Mix Parlon with magnesium. Add 50 volume parts of acetone, mix well and mix in the other ingredients. If PVC is used, add the correct amount of the solution in THF to the other ingredients.

barium nitrate....................................50
lab grade magnesium powder........................32
Parlon or PVC.....................................18"

Edited by greenlight, 12 October 2016 - 08:16 AM.


#44 pyrogenius007

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 04:39 AM

Thanks greenlight for the advice you have given, can you also tell me the right prime for this star and also if it can be cut or has to be pumped ?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      



#45 greenlight

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Posted 13 October 2016 - 12:01 PM

I don't know 100% whether cut or pumped would be better but I would try pumped if I was to make these.

I haven't made any stars yet that haven't been able ro be ignited by just spraying with alcohol/h20 and rolling the stars in a tub of meal powder and letting them dry.
Theres no chlorate in the formula so the sulphur in the bp shouldn't matter.

I want to start making hotter primes though cause they do get blown blind sometimes.

Edited by greenlight, 13 October 2016 - 12:15 PM.


#46 pyrogenius007

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Posted 14 October 2016 - 12:17 AM

Thanks greenlight for the advice, i will pump the stars and prime them with meal powder. 



#47 Carbon796

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Posted 14 October 2016 - 09:53 PM

If you use just meal powder, you will be very disappointed. Unless you throughly step prime them.

#48 greenlight

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Posted 14 October 2016 - 11:51 PM

I have just been using coats of meal to prime the stars but some of them have been blown blind. What prime would you suggest carbon796?
Chlorate or perchlorate based prime?

#49 Carbon796

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Posted 15 October 2016 - 07:03 PM

I would suggest a "hot" perchlorate based prime.

I'm not aware of any chlorate based primes. Even if I was, I would not advise to use them.

#50 Ubehage

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 08:45 AM

I would suggest a "hot" perchlorate based prime.

I'm not aware of any chlorate based primes. Even if I was, I would not advise to use them.

In lack of Perch, would fence-post prime work?

Blowing shit up is not a goal in itself. Seeing your device working the way you intended, is the greatest satisfaction of all.


#51 OldMarine

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 08:13 PM

Adding 5% silicon to your BP prime helps quite a bit. Forms a glassy slag that transfers the heat to the comp better.
Come on! Name one other hobby in which you cheer as your money and hard work go up in smoke!

#52 Seymour

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Posted 02 November 2016 - 11:07 PM

If you don't have Potassium perchlorate you can still step prime them with mixes of the green composition and the black powder prime. Perhaps first prime with 75% green and 25% BP, then 50/50, then 25% green and 75% BP, then a final layer of BP prime.

 

The only stars that I'll ever prime with only BP are ones like Charcoal streamers and glitters that are likely to light anyway. In these cases the BP prime is to absolutely guarantee ignition on all surfaces of all stars at the same time, instead of some stars only being lit on one side, and a percentage not lighting at all, especially in hard bursts.

 

Under priming is one of the most common mistakes people make in the journey of making lovely firework stars, which is quite understandable. Black powder does burn pretty intensely and it will often ignite star mixes when they are on the ground and not flying through the air. In my opinion it is better to do it a little bit more than you feel is needed than risk having a shell with nothing after the burst, or the disappointing effect of only 10% of them lighting.


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#53 PyroChem221

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Posted 11 May 2017 - 11:09 PM

As far as what truly is the best green composition to use is in fact, BaClO3 mixture. The following ratio will give the absolute best results possible. It used a three step priming method to ensure good ignition.

Barium Chlorate..........50
Parlon®.......................10
Magnalium (-325)........20
Red Gum.....................20

Bind with Xylene and screen slice. Prime using a healthy layer of this hot prime:

Potassium Perchlorate............50
Magnalium (-325)....................30
Charcoal (Air Float).................20
Rice Starch or Dextrin...........+10

Follow this with a easier to ignite BP based hot prime. The reason for the strange first prime is to prevent sulfur from coming in contact with the star composition as it contains chlorates and addition of sulfur will make it very dangerous. This is the black power prime base.

Potassium Nitrate.....................74
Sulfur........................................12
Charcoal...................................14
Dextrin or Rice Starch..............+5

Ball mill these ingredients together at least 2 hours. Overnight recommended. Then add in 20% by weight of fine magnalium after milling. Sieve everything together. Then add 1-2% boric acid to prevent unwanted reaction from the MgAl. Then dust with a final coating of standard BP. If anyone wants to try this like I did I am very curious to see your results.

Cheers




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