
black powder competition
#21
Posted 15 May 2012 - 10:47 PM
I didn't realize you lived in Canada, sorry.
#22
Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:19 AM
You are cool with us here, you just have unrealistic expectations for a test that is ill timed partly due to the 4th celebration. As Peret says, Aluminum tubing is made to a standard ID and OD, it is not very expensive for a long lasting solution.
HDPE DR 9 is 1.81" ID but is really hard to find because of the minimum amount you have to purchase up front.
-dag
David
PGI Rocket Boss http://www.pgi.org
IPA Member http://www.iowapyro.com
"The art of fire is indeed the supreme art; for fire is at once the universal slave, the universal master."
#23
Posted 16 May 2012 - 08:35 AM

Conflo, ergo sum
#24
Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:42 AM
By the way: I'd like to ask one of my frequent questions again.

Edited by Potassiumchlorate, 22 May 2012 - 12:10 PM.
Conflo, ergo sum
#25
Posted 22 May 2012 - 01:27 PM
We shot 6&8" shells this past weekend using 8% 5/1 coated hulls (made with Paulownia) , the lift was more than adequate
Using coated hulls seems to be more effecient than granulated or corned BP
BPG,HPA, PGI
#26
Posted 22 May 2012 - 01:42 PM
I just must test 5/1 on rice hulls.

Conflo, ergo sum
#27
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:42 PM
The product I use for lift from my homemade powder is 2+3FA. I use a wider range than is normally used commercially. My meal is plenty hot on it's own, but inclusion of some of the finer stuff helps to break my shells a little better. I lift all of my shells as normal and they still work fine without lifting too overly hard.
The sky is my canvas, and I have 2,113 pounds of powdered paint in the workshop.
#28
Posted 22 May 2012 - 03:53 PM
Conflo, ergo sum
#29
Posted 22 May 2012 - 06:45 PM
bob
#30
Posted 31 May 2012 - 06:34 AM
Conflo, ergo sum
#31
Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:23 AM
#32
Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:27 AM
Conflo, ergo sum
#33
Posted 31 May 2012 - 09:28 AM
I tried again. Very long muzzle flame, but still "whoof" and not "bang". But maybe it should be that way with so small amounts (1.5g)? The star didn't seem to ignite this time, or, if it did, it burned too fast for me to notice. It's daytime here, so it's hard to decide.
Conflo, ergo sum
#34
Posted 31 May 2012 - 03:15 PM
While the quality of a particular powder is important, I found it was more important to keep the lift charge confined, especially for small shells. It does take some finite time for the fire to propagate from grain to grain, and anything that doesn't ignite in the first milliseconds is wasted in a short mortar. 10 grams twisted tightly in a baggie will give a far better performance than 10g spread over the bottom of a mortar tube. My objection to using coated hulls would be that they're very bulky and can't be so well confined.
#35
Posted 31 May 2012 - 06:13 PM
The sky is my canvas, and I have 2,113 pounds of powdered paint in the workshop.
#36
Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:00 PM
Another good way to test black powder is to "shoot anvils".
You need (2) high quality forged steel anvils.
One anvil has a hole drilled into the center of the flat top.
A measured amount of black powder is loaded into the drill hole.
A playing card is placed over the black powder and a small diameter fuse ran to the outside edge of the anvil.
The other anvil is turned upside down on top of the other anvil.
Fuse is lit and powder ignites and propels anvil into the air.
Total energy of black powder is measured by the total distance anvil travels up in the air.
An old time military guy told me this was how they tested black powder in the civil war era.
Back in those days quality of black powder was an issue for the artillery groups.
If you wanted to hit your target you needed to know how "hot" the black powder was.
#37
Posted 31 May 2012 - 09:25 PM

#38
Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:04 AM

Conflo, ergo sum
#39
Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:44 AM

Conflo, ergo sum
#40
Posted 28 August 2012 - 04:00 AM
Conflo, ergo sum
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users