Jwdrummer5 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 sorry the camera wasn't in focus, believe me I am Saddened by this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Pyro Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 sorry the camera wasn't in focus, believe me I am Saddened by this. That was a really nice shell you made. Nice job! I see you also have Eds shell in their, he did very nice as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allrocketspsl Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 nice shell mate great colors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
californiapyro Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 nice'un! this was winterblast, not do-it, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwdrummer5 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Right, Winterblast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I made a comment on your picture about this but could you be convinced to do a tutorial on Kyoko-do for us at some point? I think that most if not all of us can attach a rising tail effect to a shell but how about some of the more spectacular items like you have done? I know I for one would sure appreciate that sort of thing.I really enjoyed watching those shells and I hope I get to see some in person at PGI this summer if I am able to make it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jwdrummer5 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the Kind words Warthog, I have only just began to apply myself in Kyoku-do (i dont even know how to pronounce it correctly, and apparently i've been spelling it wrong too). I would like to offer as much info as i can about the effects and the method. But i haven't really experimented enough to be any authority on the subject. But I will try to explain what i have found to be helpful if not key. Kyoko-do has been partially described on pyroguide. But it seems that that information is limited to rising comets, FYI a rising comet is any star that can be attached to a shell which burns on the way to the shell's apogee, thus providing a visual tail to follow the shell with. I would like to note that although i have had limited experience with rising effects, the preferred method is to form a comet that can be glued and taped onto the top of the shell, some use cylindrical pumped stars with Titanium or iron added to provide a long lasting tail. I on the other hand use a lightly dampened comp that can be wetted and bound with dextrin, I gently press the comp into a small dixie paper cup to a depth of approximately 1/2" depending on the burn speed of your comp. (1/2" is good to start with no matter the comp. when the rising star is dry i use scissors and cut the top of the cup all the way down to the comp making (Petals) of the cup that can be folded back and used to secure the star to the shell.Glue the now bottom of the star and the opened petals with hot glue to the shell. i then use a razor blade to expose MOST of the now top of the star. i never cut the bottom of the cup all the way off because i believe the small edge helps secure the star. then i use an appropriate prime usually consisting of Nitrocellulose lacquer mixed with meal powder with 10% atomized aluminum to ignite hotter comps. while still wet i dip the slurry into 2FG or equivalent. ****Disclaimer**** As with all compositions, be aware of compatibilities before attempting to use certain compositions.****A rising star is my minimum rising effect, I find it necessary to be able to track the shell to it's apogee. Moving on to other rising effects, Such as with my 10" shell above. I have found some information that has lead me to try and attach other parasite shells to the top of another shell. I will take this moment to mention that when a rising star or rising shell is attached to another shell, in order to ignite the effect, shell or star, all that is needed is to prime the effect. I had previously thought that a rising star had to be attached to the shell inside the lift cup, or that special measures had to be taken to properly ignite the rising effect. However after some experiments, I have proved to myself that as long as the rising effect is somewhere in the mortar, and that it is primed, it will be ignited. One way i have proved this is by simply dumping other parasite shells/stars into mortar on top of a "Host" shell. at this last Winter blast i was given a number of 2" shells with lift cups removed. i used these by simply dropping many of them into a mortar on top of mine and other members shells, we all thought it was cool, especially with the larger shells, the smaller shells tend to fall to the sides of the mortar and thus present as a bouquet of shells that burst at approximately the same height/time.One member identified this effect as being called "ONIONS" As far as adding lift to the "Host" shell, i have found this unnecessary. In fact i have recently read something that explained what percentage of parasite shells can be lifted by a host shell. I don't know the source though. So until you experiment, don't overdo it. So moving on to the rising shells, there may be many ways to accomplish this, but i will tell you how i did it. After i had completed my shell, i attached the rope that is used to lower the shell into the mortar. i left the rope a little long, (i had never used a 10" mortar before and didn't know the length needed anyway) after securing the rope with hot glue and strapping tape, i then proceeded to attach my rising shells, first was a 4" commercial shell, i simply removed the lift cup along with lift, and used its string loop on top of the shell to tie it onto the host shell. i then did the same with the (2) 3" Shells and the 1.75" shell no additional priming was used to ensure ignition. I did however tie the parasite shells as close as i could to the host shell. After all parasite shells were attached i then attached the rising comets as described above. After all was attached i then weighed the shell and used 10% GOEX 2FA to lift the shell, I also dropped in a number of red/ blue/ magenta/ and white stars into the lift BUCKET, which was a paper paint bucket given to me by another member. How did i time the Rising shells you ask? I didn't need to, all the shells had their own timing fuse in tact and were already primed. i figured that the (2) 3" shells had only a slight possibility of bursting exactly at the same time, since even the best commercial shells vary in timing from shell to shell. I have however used a different method when using rising shells of all the same size. At Winter Blast 22 I attached (3) 1.4g (1.75") shells to the top of a 6" shell. to adjust the timing i securely taped over the existing time fuse on the shells. i then used an awl to poke into the shell. ***(this method or others is not recommended since using a steel awl can ignite the contents of the shell)*** i then used visco with a consistent, known burn speed as my new time fuse, i simply wrapped the appropriate length of the fuse with a number of turns of masking tape. each rising shell had a different length of visco that was wrapped. The length of taped visco will vary depending on burn speed of your visco. I then stuck the new Visco time fuse into the punched hole and glued into place. afterward as with all timing fuses i primed with a mixture of Nitrocellulose lacquer and black powder and atomized aluminum, and then dipped the still wet slurry into some 2FG or equivalent. So far i have had 1 out of 1 shells successfully launch this way. obviously more testing is needed, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just a word on priming time fuse. i have spent much time ensuring that my time fuses are adequately primed and cross matched. But i have since changed my method. After seeing some commercial shells with the time fuse simply primed, and after seeing a fellow member of WPA simply prime their razor cut time fuse, i have done the same and had 100% success. Of the 30 or so shells that i have made this way, they have all properly ignited and burst at the right height. I do not have a Chinese time fuse cutter, but have plans to make one. So i cut my time fuse by marking on the fuse the length needed (approx 1" of 2.7 sec red/white fuse for a 3" shell) i then tap a razor blade through the fuse with a mallet or hammer. I have marks on my work bench that show appropriate lengths which i can use to cut many at a time which i promptly prime both sides, to prevent any powder falling out. i then re-dip one side and then dip into 2FG. The inside is simply dipped into a 70/30 NCL/BP slurry, Not dipped into 2FG. I do this to ensure that no powder falls out and believe that the prime may slow down the end of the burn thus preventing a problem that has said that un-cross matched time fuse (on the inside) burns so fast that it may not ignite a flash bag if used. (i doubt that is really an issue) Since my method is not a time proven method, I did however use a second time fuse in my 10" shell that was cross matched at both ends. Since I am shooting all my shells on a closed club site, with little fear of an unexploded shell being found by the general public, i will continue to time my shells with this method. Well that's the way i do it. It seems to work well for me Hope this rant helps someone to make amazing shells.-Tim Edited February 26, 2012 by Jwdrummer5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 THANKS! I really appreciate that a lot! Now all I need is a chance to try some of this out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrogeorge Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I had the same issue with the focous in my camera and the next day i sold it I lost many fireworks video because of focus. ps.awesome shell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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