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Get sulfur - purity 90% is good?


pyrosailor99

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Hi all!

 

i've searched the forum but not found any about this.

 

well i would like to know if a sulfur agriculture grade (90% + 10%inert components) is good fo BP and what could be INERTs components...

 

i've really searched all my cityy for sulfur 98%+ but none have this type. tu most pure i found is 90%. would be this good? could 10% inert be dangerous mixing bp with other comps (chlorates etc) ?

 

thank you!

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It should be fine in BP. The inert components are usually just clay. You use 10% sulfur in BP and so if 1/10th of that is clay you're only watering down your composition by 1%. Most compositions should work just fine.

 

If you need to ask this kind of question you shouldn't be playing with chlorates and therefore don't need to be concerned about your second question.

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It should be fine in BP. The inert components are usually just clay. You use 10% sulfur in BP and so if 1/10th of that is clay you're only watering down your composition by 1%. Most compositions should work just fine.

 

If you need to ask this kind of question you shouldn't be playing with chlorates and therefore don't need to be concerned about your second question.

 

 

you are right, at the moment i won't use chlorates (maybe perchlorates for stars)... but this don't mean i will not try to use my bp with other industrial devices.

since year i'm a monster in disassembly each kind of firework and build new custom. so i really think to use my bp to improve or create new fireworks... this means that stars disassemblied from other devices may be come in touch with my bp...

 

this is not the only cause i wrote this question.

i made until now (since years) many and many tests on making my own bp.

 

all test really failed for many and many reasons:

-devices used

-chemical used

-wrong expectations

-wrong timing

-wrong media

-...

 

in the first tests i made i used this chems:

-handmade charcoal (not by me but by another person that sell it for barbecue. IT'S NOT INDUSTRIAL. it's made in open groudn by hand (i don't know how). i suppose it is GRAPE and mixed wood charcoal as in my city we have a lot of grapes.

-agric. sulfur : quality unknown

-pure 99.9% kno3

lortone miniball mill wth fishing lead balls

[for other mix]

-white dextring

-arabic gum

 

many test failed for many reason. i discovered that if i was using that chems and milled by hand... bp WORKED (not so fast and leaving much incandescent kno3 residues)

 

now i finally have Wiillow airfloat charcaol.

made new test WITHOUT milling. (kno3 milled in a professional coffee grinder. it seems airfloat)

 

it worked, yes, but no so fast. underneath paper burned, some residue leaved.

pressed in a paper cylinder (as a spolette). worked, much residue leaved

 

retried with old charcoal (no milled, so charcoal wasn't airfloat)... bp worked about like the new... also a bit faster... so i know my old charcoal was very good...

 

now i really suspect on sulfur. who gave it to me said he used for agricultre... and i know, NOW, that sulfur for agric may be also at 50% purity... and mine could be this!

i'm on the way to complete my about-pro ballmill, but befor spent inthe most expensive part of the project (brass media), i have to know if my chems are good and if i can buy it.

it wouldnt be the worth if i have to order ALL from other countries spending 100usd/kg for my bp... (the real is that i'm a fireworks feticist... i would spend also more)

 

i think to be the most feticist person on the world for MATCHES. i love desperately black match and i'm trying to do it since years and tried also about all composition disassemblied from pro-fireworks to make it.

so my biggst doubt is... may a 90% sulfur degrade the power of a blackmatch?

 

 

anyway thank you for the reply!

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so my biggst doubt is... may a 90% sulfur degrade the power of a blackmatch?

 

For blackmatch, the biggest concern may be particle size. If this sulfur is "dusting sulfur", I believe it'll be good.

 

If it's not fine and "dusty", I'd be concerned. Grinding sulfur is no small job and it generates a lot of static, too. I'd worry more about course sulfur than impure sulfur.

 

Don't get me wrong, the best is fine and pure, and a good thing to have. I just wouldn't lose much sleep over a little impurity in it when using for BP. Have fun.

 

WSM B)

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  • 4 months later...

I'm glad I found this post because I was wondering if it was the sulfur that was making my BP burn too slowly to function as lift powder. So with that variable out of the way I'm left with

not ball milling the powder as the only problem left to contend with,unless my recipe which calls for KNO3 (potassium nitrate) is ineffective when substituting NaNO3 (sodium nitrate).

Edited by SolarSeeker
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You CAN use Nano3, but it has a hygroscopic nature , and will burn slower as a result. A ballmill is the key to a well intimate mixture of your bp chems. W/o the best you can do is work with the finest airfloat material and screen mix the heck out of it, wet and granulate.

 

I'm glad I found this post because I was wondering if it was the sulfur that was making my BP burn too slowly to function as lift powder. So with that variable out of the way I'm left with

not ball milling the powder as the only problem left to contend with,unless my recipe which calls for KNO3 (potassium nitrate) is ineffective when substituting NaNO3 (sodium nitrate).

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you are right, at the moment i won't use chlorates (maybe perchlorates for stars)... but this don't mean i will not try to use my bp with other industrial devices.

 

 

 

Sulfur mixed with a chlorate creates a friction sensitive compound.

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interesting you ask, I have found it makes a difference in my bp. I have 90% and 99.9%, here are a couple nozzleless rockets made exactly the same, only diff. being the sulfur used... first is 90%, second is 99.9%.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6aNeUtyXMk

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjuLfex5ICY

 

note, there is only a 20 gram difference in the headers.

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