Pimpsac Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Well I am not to familiar with the commercial grade ematches and by me I find them way to expensive for me. Now I have heard that by getting a small silicon diode and dipping it in wax it makes a great ignitor, when a charge is applied onto it. ( and myth says it works underwater ) well I need help on which diode is it and If this will be the best way to go. Because I can order it on digikey and get an epic bulk deal. Thank you for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Its been covered, go to the top right hand corner of the page and use the search function, carbon film and igniters in the search box will lead you to the threads that cover this topic. It has also been found that carbon film resisters are superior to diodes and are cheaper as well in bulk. LINK -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 OK, I'm in the UK, so your wisdom may differ, however; An igniter bought as a single or in small quantities costs £1.40 + tax. By the case the same igniters cost 50p + tax Several people have tried DIY igs using resistors and other components, but, when they get it right the product works til the next batch of components, when something changes and they don't work again. Using diodes your continuity testing will be harder, because the circuit may not see the diode the right way round.With the proper bridgewire chips costing a couple of cents each it muse be easier to produce igs from them rather than odd components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 OK, I'm in the UK, so your wisdom may differ, however; An igniter bought as a single or in small quantities costs £1.40 + tax. By the case the same igniters cost 50p + tax Several people have tried DIY igs using resistors and other components, but, when they get it right the product works til the next batch of components, when something changes and they don't work again. Using diodes your continuity testing will be harder, because the circuit may not see the diode the right way round.With the proper bridgewire chips costing a couple of cents each it muse be easier to produce igs from them rather than odd components. I've tried carbon film resistors (7 Ohm, 1/8 Watt) with success but am not thrilled with them. They work, but typically have a one second delay which I don't care for. They do work with or without a pyrogen if in intimate contact with BP grains or black match (also BP, of course). If you have access to fine NiCr wire and thin PC board material, you can make your own electric matches. The trick was whetting the nichrome and the best flux I've used was phosphoric acid. I applied the smallest drop to the wire and PC board (held together with a flat-jawed hemostat) with a tooth pick and added heat from a soldering pencil and then the solder,...and the job was done! All that remained was rinsing with water, drying, soldering lead wires and applying the pyrogen. One of the simplest pyrogens was H-3 in NC lacquer, which worked well. If you need more detail of any particular part of the proceedure, let me know and and I'll fill you in. WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 50g and 36g igniter chips are available so cheaply in the States that there really isn't any reason to play DIY! Replace the chip each time and keep reusing the firing wire til it gets too short! oda-ents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 If you have access to fine NiCr wire and thin PC board material, you can make your own electric matches. The trick was whetting the nichrome and the best flux I've used was phosphoric acid. I applied the smallest drop to the wire and PC board (held together with a flat-jawed hemostat) with a tooth pick and added heat from a soldering pencil and then the solder,...and the job was done! All that remained was rinsing with water, drying, soldering lead wires and applying the pyrogen. One of the simplest pyrogens was H-3 in NC lacquer, which worked well. WSM Phosphoric acid? Really? Ill be darned... I have tried Ruby Fluid and others with no good results. -dag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WSM Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Phosphoric acid? Really? Ill be darned... I have tried Ruby Fluid and others with no good results. -dag Oh yeah, phosphoric acid! I tried many other fluxes and the simplest and best working (so far) is phosphoric acid. I've heard of using citric acid solution, but I haven't tried it yet. The main advantage of phosphoric acid is it gets the solder to actually stick to the NiCr wire! You only need the smallest little bit of the acid to get it to work, that's why I use a toothpick to apply it. In fact, I used to carry it in a 10ml Nalge bottle with only about 2ml acid in it. Try it and you'll see what I mean . WSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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