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Brilliant White


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#1 Rooster

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 12:02 PM

Coldwarr2000:

Name of composition:Brilliant white
Composition Type:Extreamly bright white
Creator:unknown
Color/Effect:Very bright white color
The Composition:
Potassium perchlorate...4
Aluminum dust...4
dextrin...1
Any Precautions/Incompatabilities:none
Precedure/Preparation:Just mix the compisition and wet with 50/50 water/alcohol and cut or pump.

Be very carfull as these stars can burn to fast an burst your mortar of they are used in a starmine. But this is the best white ive ever seen. Highly recommend to all those who can make this star comp.

Vids and pics.

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TheAlmightyVineMan:

Jesus dude, that is fucking bright! Hmm, I want to make it... now all I need to buy is Potassium perchlorate and !Aluminum dust...heh...im so poor

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Frkonaleash1010:

What was the approximate size of those stars and in that mine? Cause if you say it burns fast I am wondering if I should make them the size of my C6 stars or idk if I should make them normal sized like a cm or something.

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ColdWarr2000:

No I didnt mean they always burn fast. Its just that since it is a flash mix thats modded you have to be carefull. The stars are small but they burn a little fast. Just test everything in a star gun.

Ive included a pic of the size of my stars in the first post(like you didnt see). Seems small but they work fine.

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Frkonaleash1010:

My bad musta missed those pics. Anyway that is a decent sized star around a cm or so like I said. Thanks for the help and beautiful bright pictures. I'll try some this weekend hopefully.

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screamingflea:

Man, those stars are absolutly beautiful, I just need to get ahold of some Al powder. Do you think Mg would have close to the same affect? It seems like that I never see any white stars with Magnesium.

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Coldwarr2000:

Youd have to change the ratio for the magnesium. Magnesium will gove a really bright white. But as said with these stars, BE CAREFULL! I have yet to have a accident(8 starmines 2 shells so far)but with this comp you can never be sure so test the hell out of the stars before use.

Frk you didnt miss those pics. I added them after you asked. I just put them on the top post cause I wanted it to look neat and orderly. I put the "like you didnt see" for people who are seeing this thread for the first time. i was being sarcastic also but its my fault for not putting the oh well.

I just made the star comp again but I used more dextrin and it burns more sparkly-yellow/white rather than a plain white ill see how it looks as soon as i get another starmine up. Ive become obsessed with starmines people I love em to much for my own good.

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Blindreeper:

If you want a really white white star, try using Sb metal with perchlorate based stars

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Crazy_Swede:

Many years ago, I made very fast burning, bright white stars. They were effective for short-lived effects where you didn't want to risk any burning stars on the ground or where you couldn't tolerate the stars travelling too far:

48 Potassium Nitrate
20 Pyro Aluminium
20 Magnesium (<60 mesh)
5 Sulphur
5 Antimony Trisulphide
2 Charcoal dust

The composition was kneaded with NC-lacquer, formed into a slab and cut into 10 mm cubic stars. After drying, the stars were tumbled in a black powder/NC-slurry and finally dusted with dry black powder.

The burn time was about 0.5 seconds!

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pyrohawk:

"I just made the star comp again but I used more dextrin and it burns more sparkly-yellow/white rather than a plain white ill see how it looks as soon as i get another starmine up. Ive become obsessed with starmines people I love em to much for my own good."

I know what you mean Starmines are probably my favorite fireworks! By the way those stars are beautiful! I put in a order for AL dust not long ago but have no Perchlorate... Could I use KNO3 in place of it and add some sulfer to aid ignition??

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rooster:

Yeah, of course you can use KNO3 instead of perchlorate. And in stars containing strontium nitrate, you can use barium nitrate instead.

BUT IT WILL NOT GIVE THE SAME EFFECT!

You should have read enough to know this, pyrohawk. The star will probably burn with your ingredients, but then it won't be the same star! So if you want the same effect, you cannot substitute one oxidizer for another.

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screamingflea:

Since Magnesium degrades quickly with water, do you think I should just use a higher alcohol percentage when dampining? I might have to switch to KNO3 since I don't have that much Perchlorate left. I know the effect will change but from from past experiences it should still be a pretty bright. I just need a good white star. The #6 and similar stars comps on andyboys site seem to never light.

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#2 Rooster

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 12:06 PM

Andyboy:

Why not try priming them then? I have a sure way of getting them to ignite everytime, I spray the stars with NC-laquer and add some 200 mesh Mg in the bowl to "pre-prime" the stars. Then I prime them with NC-lacquer and BP to finish them of.

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screamingflea:

I gave them a light-medium BP prime. A few did ignite at the top of a comet I made, I should have metioned that.

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pyrohawk:

"Yeah, of course you can use KNO3 instead of perchlorate. And in stars containing strontium nitrate, you can use barium nitrate instead.

BUT IT WILL NOT GIVE THE SAME EFFECT!

You should have read enough to know this, pyrohawk. The star will probably burn with your ingredients, but then it won't be the same star! So if you want the same effect, you cannot substitute one oxidizer for another."

I know it wouldn't give the exact same effect But it should give a similar bright white, not all of us are blessed with a large supply of Chems. or money to buy them with! So I try to make due with what I have, which in this case does not include Perchlorate!

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BongerMann:

Someone should try that in a shell. I would but I am out of Perch. Anyone want to send some to me for free so I can try it?

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Frkonaleash1010:

I just made an awsome mod of this comp. I used the folowing ratio

Potassium perhclorate 8
Aluminum -16mesh 4
Aluminum 600mesh 4
dextrin 2

I pressed it into a 3/4 inch plastic tube and it made a very high flitter fountain. It is gonna work perfect as a flitter star or as a fountain mix. Bright white sparks. I'll get a pic in a minute

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ColdWarr2000:

Holy shit thats a big image, if I didnt have cable I would of given up loading this page.

Take the pic down and bring it into somthing like adobe illustator or MS paint and resize it, or link this

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Frkonaleash1010:

Idk how to delete just the pic so i deleted the whole post....heres the post

Well i guess the first times a charm I made a batch and split it into two tubes this time....first tube the plastic meleted over it and kinda killed the effect other one tipped over...but you can still kinda get the effect. But the first one made a fountain unchoked just pressed in the tube about 12-15high. I guess if it doesn't fall over or get burning plastic on it it would be very nice for a comet or similar. Pissed cause if I got a pic of the first one it was so much better. O well....this was the one that tipped.

And about the pic. Idk wtf I am doing or how to resize so fuck that....I dont give a shit. Pic is shit anyway. If you're interested IM me and i'll send it.

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Chaz:

Well, there seem to be no working images or videos, so heres a video of mine. I had to use KClO3, and I reduced the amount of dextrin to 7 parts, rather than 10. You dont need 10 percent dextrin.

Here
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#3 artificier

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Posted 01 October 2006 - 12:11 PM

i have my own brillant white comp:

65% kno3
20% Al fine
15% sulphur
+5% coase Al

this is the vid : http://www.apcforum....2006009.mpg.mov

#4 Fire-Man

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:09 PM

Do not mean to bring up an old topic but figured I would post this white formula so I wouldnt have to start a new bright white star formula. It's called Electric White, and I got it from a fellow Pyro on another forum.
Barium Nitrate %11.25

Aluminum, flake, dark, American dark. -325 mesh %3.75

Sulfur %0.75

Dextrin % 0.75

Does this seem right, or does it need some tweaking? Also since I'm new, I would use water as a solvent in this since there is no magnesium right?

#5 Mumbles

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:16 PM

Are those parts or percentages? If they are parts, it may be alright, but percentages is rather of. It only adds up to around 15%.

Anyway, yes, it should be alright to wet them with water. I'd highly suggest using a boric acid solution to wet them thought to prevent any sort of nitrate/aluminum reaction. As far as from a good formula stand point, I would imagine it would be very bright and very white. It's pretty much a bound flash powder, so be careful.
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#6 hst45

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 04:20 PM

Barium Nitrate    %11.25     
 
Aluminum, flake, dark, American dark. -325 mesh  %3.75   
 
Sulfur  %0.75   
 
Dextrin  % 0.75

Does this seem right, or does it need some tweaking? Also since I'm new, I would use water as a solvent in this since there is no magnesium right?

I don't think you posted the whole comp. correctly, as it adds up to 16-1/2%. Is this to be added to green meal perhaps? As for binding, water and/or water/ethanol should work, and you might add a bit of boric acid (say 1%) since you have aluminum and a nitrate.

[Edit]

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#7 Fire-Man

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Posted 04 January 2008 - 08:13 PM

Yes thats in parts, what kind of boric acid would you recomend? Here is percent, what would you rate this on a scale of 1 to 10 on dangerous making? This will be my first comp.

Barium Nitrate 68.18

Aluminum, flake, dark, American dark. -325 mesh 22.73

Sulfur 4.55

Dextrin 4.55

#8 hst45

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 08:29 AM

Boric acid can be easily obtained (in the U.S. anyway) at a home center or hardware store; it's sold as a roach-proofing powder. It's commonly labeled orthoboric acid. It's used in comps with aluminum and a nitrate to tip the PH of a water-bound comp slightly acidic.

Also, do take precautions with barium compounds as they are quite poisonous. If it were me, I would start with something more forgiving like tiger tail, but I've never tried the comp you describe so I can't comment on it's relative safety. Please do SMALL batchs at first until you get a feel for how this or any other comp works. Good luck, and stay safe.
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#9 qwezxc12

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 10:54 AM

Fire-Man,

That formula is similar to an old Italian formula called "Luce Forte", meaning Great or Powerful Light. Formula is in parts:

Barium Nitrate.................24
#809 Aluminum..............8
Potassium Nitrate............3
Sulphur..........................2
Dextrine.........................2

Percentage-wise it's very close to what you posted with the KNO3 traded for a little less BaNO3.

The ingredients should be fine...no need to mill, and hand mixed then well screened together. I used -450 mesh Al flake for the Aluminum, but I suppose any reasonably fine, uncoated flake would work. Note the absence of Boric Acid...I don't know if the Barium Nitrate is less susceptible to contributing to Al-Nitrate reactions, or of the old Italians just liked to live dangerously :) FWIW, I didn't notice any heating or ammonia smell when I made this (two different batches).

It will need a good prime. It certainly is bright, though. Here's a 4in shell of 1/2" pumped Luce Forte stars with some added Ti:

Video

Posted Image

Interesting note: If you sub NaNO3, it's the Italain formula known as "Giallo Abbagliante", or "Dazzling Yellow"...and on my list of things to try.
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#10 Fire-Man

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 11:20 AM

So I don't need to use boric acid? All I have to do is add water to the dextrin when hand mixing? Then screen it. You said you didnt use it or you did? Sorry if I didn't understand. :D

#11 qwezxc12

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 02:53 PM

Well, when I made that comp, I didn't use Boric Acid in it...I do now. I just throw 10g or so in when I fill my "Nitrate/Al" spray bottle. Solubility is 5.7g/100 ml so what ever doesn't dissolve will be there until it gets topped up again with water/EtOH...It's easy as I keep several dedicated spray bottles for different applications.

When you say, "All I have to do is add water to the dextrin when hand mixing? Then screen it.", I'm not sure what you mean. Do you know how to use screens for mixing dry chems together?...Hand mixing your comp in a bowl (dry), then screening it through a -20 or so mesh screen several times will ensure homogeneity in the mix, as described here: Pyroguide - screen method.

Then (if you're pumping or cutting) you add your solvent. You can rescreen the mix to help distribute the moisture after you've added it if you wish.
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#12 Frozentech

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 07:05 PM

I just throw 10g or so in when I fill my "Nitrate/Al" spray bottle. Solubility is 5.7g/100 ml so what ever doesn't dissolve will be there until it gets topped up again with water/EtOH...It's easy as I keep several dedicated spray bottles for different applications.

Exactly the way I do it as well.
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