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D1 Glitter


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#101 zAZO9a

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 01:18 PM

i have 30-60 mesh glitter aluminum at least thats what was advertised.will it work in d-1?. im using a 1/4 star pump for small shells. an answer before i start would be nice lol..but ill give it a try anyways. who knows :D

#102 Mumbles

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 01:59 PM

I suspect that the aluminum will be too coarse and have too long of a hangtime for D1 in small shells. The larger the particles in a glitter composition, the longer the delay before the tail will flash. If this delay becomes too long, it can result in significant fall out. I'd suggest starting with a 200 or 325 mesh aluminum.

Adding in small amounts of coarser Al, charcoal, or even KNO3 can be an interesting way to tune the delay time. It's definitely easy to overdo it and rain down a lot of flaming or glowing fallout.
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#103 zAZO9a

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 06:04 PM

thanks mumbles your advice is always welcome i havent pumped them yet ...more snow.. it would interest me to know what i can use it for though...hcs does have an advertising scheme going..lol.. :D

#104 zAZO9a

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 06:08 PM

my bad its 30-80 mesh i dont know if that really makes a difference

#105 Oinikis

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:59 AM

i have used brightflake painting aluminium, cut them, and i was very satisfied with them, it left nice bright tail, whitch twinkled. but due to bightflake Al the stars looked silver.
I feel the need, the need for speed.

#106 zAZO9a

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 06:05 PM

that doesnt sound all that disappointing of an outcome lol..but im using the glitter al from hcs. i looked it back up .it has mesh sizes from 30 msh all the way up to 325. i screened out the course stuff and screen sliced them.i was kinda shocked that it was actually that simple..they worked pretty well.but they burn to quick.and leave a very small tail.pretty.. but could be better.they were sliced into 1/4 in cubes which may also be to small even for a 1.5 shell.so ill go up a size or two maybe 3/8 and try tweaking it a little .there to go with some of my parlon starsso im gonna try with tt too

#107 AirCowPeacock

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 06:47 PM

I suggest cut 3/16" tailed stars for a 1.5" shell, and 1/8" for color.

#108 zAZO9a

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 08:51 PM

thanks.. that sounds simpler.. and sounds better than sittin round trying to tweak a comp for weeks ill try that first. sounds hopefull...soon as it quits raining..lol

#109 BlastFromThePast

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 07:42 AM

I'm bummed that I messed up my first batch of D1. I made 100g of comp, wet it with like 6 or 7% solvent, hand pumped 3 and then gave up because of how meticulous it was. I let those 3 dry and 2 hours later I lit one off and it was absolutely awesome. So then I decided to go back and pump all of the rest of the comp which took me an hour to do. I had to re-wet it again because it had dried out. Now I have 130 1/4" D1 that burn mediocre at best by comparison to those first 3. What's weird to me though is that when I burned the first 3, they burned completely. All of the ones that I pumped later on leave residue. Why could this be happening?

#110 Mumbles

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 02:55 AM

Don't be so sure the batch is ruined yet. Wait for them to completely dry, and test fire some. A lot of stars burn very differently in the air, particularly those designed to leave a tail. Residue is quite common with these types of stars too, especially when only partly dry. D1 tends to be kind of slaggy in my opinion. It is of course possible that sitting around wet in a pile could have cause some deleterious effects, especially with something containing basic ingredients. It's not all that likely you would have noticed it with a 100g batch, but heating up or the presence of hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg) or ammonia are all characteristic of an unwanted reaction.
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#111 TritonPyro

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 06:08 AM

For all the glitter effects with fine mesh aluminium has anyone tried magnesium? I realise it is used in flash and flare compositions, but is there any other safe use for it?

#112 BlastFromThePast

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 09:14 AM

Don't be so sure the batch is ruined yet. Wait for them to completely dry, and test fire some. A lot of stars burn very differently in the air, particularly those designed to leave a tail. Residue is quite common with these types of stars too, especially when only partly dry. D1 tends to be kind of slaggy in my opinion. It is of course possible that sitting around wet in a pile could have cause some deleterious effects, especially with something containing basic ingredients. It's not all that likely you would have noticed it with a 100g batch, but heating up or the presence of hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg) or ammonia are all characteristic of an unwanted reaction.


They definitely needed to dry. They work very well now, only leaving a miniscule amount of slag residue. There's one thing I've noticed though. When I did a ground test for one of them, I got caught in the smoke cloud and inhaled a little by accident, but when I inhaled, the smoke irritated my nose and I felt a burning sensation. When I burn BP, the smoke is not irritating at all. Is this the hydrogen sulfide you were referring to?

#113 BlastFromThePast

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 04:33 PM

How come my rolled D1's came out lookin' like this?
D1 Glitter to C8


#114 BPgorilla

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 05:12 AM

How come my rolled D1's came out lookin' like this?

wow, did you roll them too wet?

#115 dan999ification

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 05:58 AM

We call them rasberrys, caused by Uneven wetting( and high point loading) I left a comment in the gallery But can't see it Now.
It won't matter much with glitter, only shells where symmetry is important as the raspberry can change course. It's easy to fix though.
Don't worry they will take fire better with this surface.

Dan.

#116 BlastFromThePast

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:50 AM

Yeah, I figured they would light well due to their shape. I think they look kind of cool ;) But I think the problem came from the fact that I was litterally rolling all of the stars you see there in one of the HF mill jars. hahah it was over flowing a little not to mention they were riding up the side of the wall alot and it was hard to get my hand in there well enough to spray only on the stars. I'm gonna build a better star roller in the future but it was a good learning experience.

#117 zAZO9a

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Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:55 AM

is there a particular size these have to be to look right ..mine are 1/4 ...small..havent shell tested them yet but.. pretty star out of a gun..but the tail isnt as prominent as i would like any ideas. i used a mixture of red stem willow and commercial hwd airfloat.maybe some of my 36 mesh char????

#118 BlastFromThePast

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 07:07 AM

Depends on what size shell you're looking to make them for. I've used 1/4" in a 2" ball shell and they looked alright. I don't know what the correct sizing would be for larger shells but there is definitely a proportion factor there. Also, I find the tails are greatly hindered when I ball mill it, even more than 15 minutes of so.

#119 bigbuck

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 01:38 PM

so I read back in this post that you DO NOT have to wet comp with boric acid added to solvent??? I actually rolled some of these with boric acid and if I recall just water they looked alright, no real wow factor, so do you just use 75/25 water/alch mix for solvent? would like some clarification on this as I am going to give it a go tmrw, thanks for an help



#120 Mumbles

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 02:00 PM

Boric acid is not always necessary.  In fact I tend to only use it with compositions I've had trouble with.  These are typically formulas containing aluminum, particularly flake varieties, and highly basic burn rate modifiers, like sodium oxalate.  I've never really had much trouble with just nitrate and aluminum, or that combination in the presence of something like barium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate.  In all likelihood D1 is fine on it's own, but it's almost impossible to say for certain.  Smaller batches tend to have less issues as well.  

 

That said, there's nothing wrong with adding it just to be safe.  You can add it as a powder to your composition.  In this case +1-2% by mass is typical.  Alternatively, you can pre-dissolve it in your wetting solvent.  I'm not sure how alcohol would affect the solubility.  Boric acid is not overly soluble in water to begin with.  You can only get 3-6% w/w depending on the exact form of the boric acid.  

 

There is some concern over the compatibility between MgAl and boric acid.  I honestly don't know the answer to if it is a real problem.  I can say that heating these compositions in a dry box has caused issues for me in the past.  I can't say for certain if it was just the heat, or if the boric acid in combination.  I don't use boric acid with any MgAl glitters however.  Boric acid and magnesium itself do react.  The reaction is slow at room temperature, but accelerated at higher temperatures. 


Just so you guys quit asking, here is the link to the old forum. http://www.xsorbit2....forum/index.cgi

The sky is my canvas, and I have 2,113 pounds of powdered paint in the workshop.




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