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D1 Glitter


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#41 FrankRizzo

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 05:40 PM

That looks more like strobe than a glitter.

#42 crazyboy25

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 07:10 PM

That looks more like strobe than a glitter.

no i don't think so strobes flash as they go but don't leave a flashing trail these had trail that continued to burn after the star was gone.
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#43 pudidotdk

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 08:21 PM

That's strobe for sure.
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#44 Mardec

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:58 AM

I agree, that are some slow ass stobe stars, not glitter!
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#45 blaadjes

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 01:54 PM

But if you take a look at the video from qwezxc12 with his D1-glitter, you'll see something like the same effect, so I was wondering, why does that Alu visualy reacts the same way as a strobe effect..?

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#46 Mumbles

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 06:51 PM

I see where you get the idea from, but those were definatly strobe cores. You may notice that the strobing kept falling and expanding, and burn out at roughly the same time , while in CPL's video they were in the tail of the stars, and burnt out at random intervals. Additional point being, those were red strobes, and red glitters do not exist truely to my knowledge.

The effect is just from a long delay on the glitter effect.
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#47 qwezxc12

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 10:16 AM

Videos showing the differing effects of Al size and oxidizer mesh:

6in D1 glitter shells using 5um spherical Aluminum and finely milled KNO3

6in Di glitter shell using 25-30um spherical Aluminum and more granular KNO3

Those two 5um shells were D1, not white strobe...I liked the effect - I plan on using 1/4" stars as cores for color changing shells.
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#48 hst45

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 08:11 PM

qwezxc12, I've had the same impression: the type of Al you use can make D1 totally different. I've been using 80-325 mesh spheroidal lately (Skylighter). This seems to give a longer series of flashes which I like. 325 flake is good too, but different.

Different KNO3 mesh? Damned, more experiments.....what we'll do for science......

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#49 qwezxc12

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 08:19 PM

The two batches weren't an attempt to be scientific in the least...too many variables changed at once. The KNO3 was powdered in my ballmill to talc consistency in the two shells with the 5um Al; the other shell with the larger Al used it right from the bag - about the consistency of salt. I'm sure the stars with that were drossier when burning.
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#50 hst45

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Posted 28 March 2008 - 08:47 PM

The two batches weren't an attempt to be scientific in the least...too many variables changed at once.

...I know the feeling. I do the same thing; I'm out of one particular mesh/species of charcoal so I substitute what's on hand, I use a different KNO3, I change the moisture in my rolling of the stars, I dry them more/less, and they are SPECTACULAR. O.K., what made the difference??????? :rolleyes: Never to be duplicated again....(damn it!)

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#51 Zmuro

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 05:15 AM

What mesh size is airfloat charcoal in D1 composition? Some say that the boric acid shouldn't be used because it counters the effect of bicarbonate, so is that true? Can it be ball milled for about 3-5 min just to achieve homogenus mixture?

#52 RubenE

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 06:28 AM

The boric acid will get neutralized by the bicarbonate, so it would be a "waste" to add it. And when using atomized Al it is very unlikely that the composistion ignites spontaneously. I usually ball mill all the ingridients except the Al for like half an hour, and the I screen in the aluminium. Allthough I have heard that the best way to make glitter it to make sure that all the components are finely powdered and the screen them together. No ball milling. I'm gonna try that soon to se if there's any difference.

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#53 pudidotdk

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 09:16 AM

I make sure the chemicals are fine grounded, then mix it in a plastic bag 'till homogeneous.

#54 Miech

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 10:33 AM

The best D1 glitter I ever made was made by grinding all ingredients excluding aluminium with a mortar and pestle for about 5 minutes. I think it is not the general mesh size of the ingredients that matters, but the variation in particle size. Also, the particle size and shape of the aluminium is of great influence. Spherical atomized #250 aluminium is superior to most flake aluminium.
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#55 Zmuro

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 01:49 PM

I ball milled it for 5 minutes and screen in the aluminium and the composition barely burn and with no sparks, so it seems that my chemicals are not fine enough. So what should I do with 1kg of composition, I know I can't ball mill it.

#56 oskarchem

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 03:19 PM

Well, wet it and make stars out of it.. Normally glitter comps don't burn in powder form...
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#57 KAP

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 09:11 PM

I made this today, I should have looked into its burnrate before I pumped them. I pumped 3/4 x 3/4'' comets.

I really like the bursts of the aluminum, I used skylighters 325 spherical Al.
It does seem slow, and to slow for thundering aeriolites (I made some of those to).
I may end up breaking up the comets and make a 3''polka shell with no rules on star size, just as long as they don't reach the ground.

#58 KAP

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Posted 27 April 2008 - 08:31 PM

Disreguard the last post, it seems to burn just fine. I rammed 6 1'' Aeriolites and the delay time is perfect 1'' deep rammed slightly dampened, its about three seconds before the Flash Thunder Charge with Ti for Bling Bling.
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#59 Yankie

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 05:16 AM

I have only ever made one batch of D1 before and I used Aluminium that i simply filed, it was spectacular, just to think what i could acheive with the proper Al, I have a choice of 200 mesh atomized or 325 mesh atomised, would the larger particles make brighter flashes? which one should I get?
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#60 FrankRizzo

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 05:04 PM

The larger mesh will increase the delay and make *slightly* brighter flashes. Get the -325.




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