BJV Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Good Morning, I am having some problems with my Ruby Red formula.The formula is rolled over dragon eggs cores which arebound with NC, which are totally dry.My question why are my stars cracking. See photo and theformula I used below.Any ideas would be helpful.Thanks,BJV Strontium nitrate 50Potassium perchlorate 8Parlon 18Magnalium (-325 mesh) 12Charcoal (airfloat) 5Sulfur 5Red gum 2Dextrin 5 Add 25% alcohol/ 75%water http://barry.dcwisp.net/RubyRed2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Good Morning, I am having some problems with my Ruby Red formula.The formula is rolled over dragon eggs cores which arebound with NC, which are totally dry.My question why are my stars cracking. See photo and theformula I used below.Any ideas would be helpful.Thanks,BJV Strontium nitrate 50Potassium perchlorate 8Parlon 18Magnalium (-325 mesh) 12Charcoal (airfloat) 5Sulfur 5Red gum 2Dextrin 5 Add 25% alcohol/ 75%water http://barry.dcwisp.net/RubyRed2.jpg I think I will rephrase a bit.Could the above comp. be bound with NC?BJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Two guesses, first one based on stars I made last year and second based on making the same star this year. When rolling stars, only coat 1/8" max before drying, the coating may shrink on some comps and crack. No need for NCL, acetone with all that parlon will work fine but are a bear to roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Two guesses, first one based on stars I made last year and second based on making the same star this year. When rolling stars, only coat 1/8" max before drying, the coating may shrink on some comps and crack. No need for NCL, acetone with all that parlon will work fine but are a bear to roll. Thanks dagabu, I am going to try the acetone. I need these star for next weekend.Will let you know how the roll.Thanks again,BJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExplosiveCoek Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Ruby red really is a PITA to dry, one of the reasons is it swells when drying and gets cracks al over. Probably due to the SrNO3, my advice is to try a SrCO3 based red next time ! I've made those Ruyb red stars once this year, and I'm never going to make them again (bound with water that is!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) Ruby red really is a PITA to dry, one of the reasons is it swells when drying and gets cracks al over. Probably due to the SrNO3, my advice is to try a SrCO3 based red next time ! I've made those Ruyb red stars once this year, and I'm never going to make them again (bound with water that is!) ExplosiveCoek Thanks for your input. I just finish another batch of the Ruby Redand bound the just with acetone. I rolled the over dragon egg cores.I brought them up to just over 1/2". I will let them dry and bringthem up to 9/16" and them prime them. So far so good.Thanks,BJV Edited January 25, 2011 by BJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 BUT... Strontium Nitrate makes a MUCH better red! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 BUT... Strontium Nitrate makes a MUCH better red! finally someone else has realised it !!! you just cant get the same richness from 15% strontium carb (same would apply to such a small amount of nitrate) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I bought 10# (about 4.5 kilo to you metric guys) of SrCO3and thought that I had done something wrong with my reds then I bought some SrNO3and the red came alive (thanks TBP!!) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I've rolled ruby red a few times and never had any problems. I think you just made the stars too large (or too wet) in one shot.Even if you have to us ethem this weekend, roll a good layer today, another tomorrow and (if needed)another + prime on Thursday. Make the shells Friday. If you are that pressed for time, then better planning is needed in the future. Remember, this is not a RUSH hobby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrueBluePyro Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I bought 10# (about 4.5 kilo to you metric guys) of SrCO3and thought that I had done something wrong with my reds then I bought some SrNO3and the red came alive (thanks TBP!!) . Haha yes, the red that SrNO3 makes is amazing,,(I also have made a few of those falling leaf shells with green and they look beautiful!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 BUT... Strontium Nitrate makes a MUCH better red! You just don't have a good red formula containing SrCO3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karlos Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Guys, ruby red formula is the shit mix, but these crackling can be explain by reacting between some compounds. Ruby red formula don´t like water, because contain magnalium, OK, but 2:1 water alcohol don´t make crackling I thing. What about white crystals on the surface of BJV's stars? I have had the similar problem with pop glitter, which contain copper oxide. I used NC and acetone and stars crakled like on BJV photo! I read on internet(I don't know where) that suphur react with copper oxide, and magnalium... I made once blue star mix, with 6% magnalium, 3% S and 15 CuO, stars crackled too! Mix without sulphur was OK!! Mabe in BJV's stars Copper oxide from dragon eggs reacted with sulphur from ruby red.......Sorry, seriously, I can't able to explait this problem by chemistry, but maybe, someone else know about this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I think Mum can help with the chemistry side though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Guys, ruby red formula is the shit mix, but these crackling can be explain by reacting between some compounds. Ruby red formula don´t like water, because contain magnalium, OK, but 2:1 water alcohol don´t make crackling I thing. What about white crystals on the surface of BJV's stars? I have had the similar problem with pop glitter, which contain copper oxide. I used NC and acetone and stars crakled like on BJV photo! I read on internet(I don't know where) that suphur react with copper oxide, and magnalium... I made once blue star mix, with 6% magnalium, 3% S and 15 CuO, stars crackled too! Mix without sulphur was OK!! Mabe in BJV's stars Copper oxide from dragon eggs reacted with sulphur from ruby red.......Sorry, seriously, I can't able to explait this problem by chemistry, but maybe, someone else know about this! Ruby Red Update: Thanks Karlos for you input. I am sure there issome sort of reaction going on using water and alcohol.I rolled another batch just using acetone yesterday,and had no problems. The stars rolled very easy andthis morning they did not crack and they are got veryhard. I will do a burn test later today. Check the photobelow.BJV http://barry.dcwisp.net/RubyRed3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Nice job BJV, cant wait to see video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Nice job BJV, cant wait to see video! Thanks dagabu, I still have to prime them. I going to wet one or two stars tonight with water andsee if I am going to have problems with the prime using water and alcohol .BJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks dagabu, I still have to prime them. I going to wet one or two stars tonight with water andsee if I am going to have problems with the prime using water and alcohol .BJV If the stars are dried nice and solid, the prime using water and alcohol, or even straight water should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi All, Well I got my Ruby Red stars primed.This is the effect I am going to try for.Video: I am only using the Ruby red not two colors.BJV http://barry.dcwisp.net/Primed.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrenaline Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Wow that is a nice effect. I´m looking forward to seeing a video of your shell. What stars are you going to use for the ring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJV Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Wow that is a nice effect. I´m looking forward to seeing a video of your shell. What stars are you going to use for the ring? Adrenaline the silver stars I will be using can be seen in thisvideo. The are a simple star formula using KN03, Dark Alum.Atomized Alum. S. and meal powder.BJV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karlos Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Wau. These silver, or mabe golden shell look perfect. I must include BJV to forum's pyro elite:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50AE Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I cannot agree Sr(NO3)2 makes a so much better red than SrCO3. I have tried ruby red, and then organic chlorate/red gum/SrCO3 based red. The later is deep and beautiful and it is what I use now. I don't say the nitrate based sucks, ruby red is a very beautiful comp. But from my opinion, I'd go with the organic, mainly because of price and chemical avaibility issues. It is very nice and the only difference I notice between both (carbonate and nitrate) is the kind of red. SrCO3 tends to give a little on the pinkish side, while Sr(NO3)2 gives the purer blood like red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I don't say the nitrate based sucks, ruby red is a very beautiful comp. But from my opinion, I'd go with the organic, mainly because of price and chemical avaibility issues. Especially if one makes all their own chlorate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) Guys, i have to admit i just made an epic fail... I rolled a 1000g batch of ruby red, because the formula worked out great years ago for me. I am rolling and pressing stars for weeks now, all dextrin bound formulae.. without even THINKING i rolled the 1000g with water/alcohol too..... They are drying for 3 weeks now, in well ventilated area's and some days in the blistering sun, but i can't get them fully dry. As i have seen in earlier posts, there are no signs of cracking, or re-crystallization of salts used. They look perfectly nice, but they stay humid. What are my options: vacuum-dry them, wait very long, put them in the roller and soak them with acetone, .....or discard the whole batch on a campfire...? lesson: keep your mind on the job you are doing! EDIT: now i think about it... can water in moist stars be driven off by acetone...? Or would the water form a barrier? Assuming the viscosity of acetone is much much lower than water... And what if we mix acetone with alcohol, would that be sufficient to drive off the water ...? Edited July 14, 2011 by spitfire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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