dagabu Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 After many promises and many delays, I present to you a tutorial for making timed reports the easy way. D https://sites.google.com/site/spamento/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExplosiveCoek Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Nice, very handy! But how do you finish the shell ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 The wife has me moving offices this weekend and that is as far as I have gotten so far. This is from my lappy in the shop. D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weirdo Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Very nice and handy tutorial. I really want to make one now, I only will use homemade rolled paper tubes because in the netherlands you dont have a shop that sell caps .I really hope you will make pictures setting the shell together, that will be very handy to . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
explomaan Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 (edited) Thanks for this clear tutorial ! Couldn't you prime the firetaking side just like the firegiving side of the timefuse? That seems to be a lot quicker Edited April 11, 2010 by explomaan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 Weirdo, I sell the cap plugs. Do you want me to check what the shipping is to the Netherlands? Exploman, Yes, you can use a dip prime on the fire taking side but what I am looking for is perfect timing. Dip prime will not give you the 1:100 second timing you are looking for... unless... I have hollow glass spheres on their way, they are about 300 mesh and will allow the flame to move from the prime to the face of the time fuse much quicker. NC lacquer acts as a fire stop when used in a dip. The spheres will allow the fire to pipe down to the time fuse like quick match. When they come in, I will test the new mix and I will post video of the results. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
explomaan Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Weirdo, I sell the cap plugs. Do you want me to check what the shipping is to the Netherlands? I would like to know, I live in the Netherlands myself too . The hollow glas spheres things sounds very interesting, I'm very curious to the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExplosiveCoek Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 If we're going to send those cap plugs to The Netherlands I'm in too ^^.. Gives us some nice excuse for a meeting to . Dave, it would certainly be nice if you let us know how those glass spheres turn out. I already was watching your progress on passfire with them. What are those 'glass spheres' anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 The ones I bought are the K15 series. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=TTTTTVv_LdGtMYu7QY0TOZ9Tfwvrfdv_IwUTfwUTfTTTTTT-- They have little strength and pop (shatter) when exposed to heat allowing for a clear path to the time fuse core. You two may want an entire 10,000 box and make some money selling them in your area. Send me an email coldfire11@msn.com and I will help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weirdo Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I'm really curious about putting glass in the prime, let us know when you did test ie .I'm interested (just like the other dutch people) in the shippingcosts. Also because its a great moment for the meeting yes . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 The ones I bought are the K15 series. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=TTTTTVv_LdGtMYu7QY0TOZ9Tfwvrfdv_IwUTfwUTfTTTTTT-- They have little strength and pop (shatter) when exposed to heat allowing for a clear path to the time fuse core. You two may want an entire 10,000 box and make some money selling them in your area. Send me an email coldfire11@msn.com and I will help you out. Well, I'll be dipped. That's what we use in R/C building to lighten epoxy mixes when we want high strength but very low weight. "Top Flite Microballoons". (I just walked upstairs and verified, lol.) Pricey for our market, though, at $4.00 per ounce. But that ounce fills a pint-sized bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Well, I'll be dipped. That's what we use in R/C building to lighten epoxy mixes when we want high strength but very low weight. "Top Flite Microballoons". (I just walked upstairs and verified, lol.) Pricey for our market, though, at $4.00 per ounce. But that ounce fills a pint-sized bottle. That's a good price for them but according to the product sheet, they have a crush strength of 1000 psi which makes them pretty strong and I wanted the lightest crush I could find and the one I got is half the price of the lightest that 3M sells. I would appreciate it if you could mix some up and see how it performs for timing or bring some with you to the spring shoot. I'll trade you 1:1. Its going to be in Ham Lake on the 15 th of May. Just confirmed it last night. D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 OK, I'll bring the bottle since I haven't done squat with pyro now for...umm.. too damn long. But god, make sure to remind me to toss that bottle in my car a day or two before the shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skycastlefish Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Wow. I try not to assume others opinions as a given, but I think I speak for all of us when I say you need to make some more tutorials! Seriously, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 Oh, its not done yet.... I will finish it this week and make sure to re post it. Thanks for the lift, after a hard week at PGI, I sure could use it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilo_G Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Nice tutorial. I am curious, did you learn this from a gentleman named Tom that wears glasses and attaches these shells to rockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Dave, Were you able to make shells that functioned successfully when you switched from coated hulls to grain powder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50AE Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Nice tutorial dagabu. But one question keeps me nervous. Is tying BM over the time fuse enough to prime it? Shouldn't it be sliced?I'll be building shells with inserts for the NYE, so I want all my inserts to light. What is the most reliable time fuse priming method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 Nice tutorial. I am curious, did you learn this from a gentleman named Tom that wears glasses and attaches these shells to rockets? TR? Yes, I spend many hours on the phone with him and he called right in the middle of my class to rib me a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 Dave, Were you able to make shells that functioned successfully when you switched from coated hulls to grain powder? Yes, LINK this rocket is the proof of concept for the 2FA when used in a canule. I was prohibited from using any open F so I hade to break them with coated hulls.... which were all ruined when the rain swamped my corner of the tent on Sunday morning. I was using a pretty hot coating with perc to make them break hard but the replacement hulls scared me since they had slow flash on them. The TUT shows the original way of making these, the class was heavily modified to meet PGI requirements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Nice tutorial dagabu. But one question keeps me nervous. Is tying BM over the time fuse enough to prime it? Shouldn't it be sliced?I'll be building shells with inserts for the NYE, so I want all my inserts to light. What is the most reliable time fuse priming method? Take a look the this LINK, this rocket used the same assembly as the TUT. I hand make 6 strand BM for a nice and hot fire to the time fuse. In my class, I had to armor plate the time fuse by coating the ends with NCL and fence post prime. The problem with fence post is that it takes a LOT of heat to light it. In all of the rockets that were flown from my class, only a hand full of the inserts "lit" but of the caps that were found, EVERY ONE of the time fuses lit and passed fire to the prime on the inside of the cap but did not light and pass fire to the 'F'. Had I stayed with meal-d, I would have had perfect headings. Keep in mind, the class was for an introduction to timed reports for rocket headings and the class walked away with a completed rocket, stick and all ready to light! In response to the split time fuse: If you split it, you destroy the timing of the shells. If timing is of no concern, go for the splitting. Edited August 19, 2010 by dagabu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Yes, LINK this rocket is the proof of concept for the 2FA when used in a canule. I was prohibited from using any open F so I hade to break them with coated hulls.... which were all ruined when the rain swamped my corner of the tent on Sunday morning. I was using a pretty hot coating with perc to make them break hard but the replacement hulls scared me since they had slow flash on them. The TUT shows the original way of making these, the class was heavily modified to meet PGI requirements. Wonderful! That slow flash must just be too fast of a burst, and without enough of a hot gas cloud to successfully ignite the BM priming. That video does seem to prove the point. Good work man. Sorry we couldn't do anything about your totes; honestly I didn't even think about the fact that there may have been live material in them. We had just that extra small tarp, which I figured would keep your open paper goods safe. And who would've guessed that the whole corner support would collapse in like that...what a crazy week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwitt Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Really nice tutorial! Looks like this is going to get me into 1) timed reports and 2) can shells. Gonna have to drill a little assembly block and see about tools for precise cutting. I'm looking forward to seeing the next pages of the tut though Falling tents- a couple years ago, some of my buddies and I had a GP Medium collapse on us just before dawn. (No, not in the army, just out messin' around in the woods). Now I'm mentally scarred whenever I hear "tent collapse"- I took the ridge pole right in the chest, accelerated by a couple hundred pounds of wet canvas. Heck of a way to wake up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Wonderful! That slow flash must just be too fast of a burst, and without enough of a hot gas cloud to successfully ignite the BM priming. That video does seem to prove the point. Good work man. Sorry we couldn't do anything about your totes; honestly I didn't even think about the fact that there may have been live material in them. We had just that extra small tarp, which I figured would keep your open paper goods safe. And who would've guessed that the whole corner support would collapse in like that...what a crazy week. Yea, I was kind of hoping that little detail would be missed. As far as the slo-flash goes, it didnt break as hard as my coated hulls did and ALL of the time fuse lit, every last one. The prime that didnt light was the prime on the INSIDE of the insert. The flame is very small on this time fuse and it was just not enough to light the prime. I am pretty sure I got an ulcer Tuesday night when I found that they didn't light and I almost called it a day Wednesday morning when the flood came. I will see if I can finish up the TUT tonight and send it off to my class.I really appreciate all you and the others did to help keep my stuff dry. Had the tubes and paper not made it I think I would have lost it! There is another canule that I will be adding to this TUT in the near future so stay tuned. Edited August 19, 2010 by dagabu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peret Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 The flame is very small on this time fuse and it was just not enough to light the prime. That would be, um, the cheap white Chinese time fuse we were making that very point about a couple of weeks ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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