shagaKahn Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Hey V that's great advice to calibrate my scale. We had a digital bath scale and 'cause it was so spiffy with its huge LCD display we just assumed it was accurate--and with its trademark "150 years of accuracy." Turned out to be off by 5% and it could NOT be re-calibrated. As for my NC lacquer, I brew my own with gun cotton and acetone. Will try tweaking component ratios and see if that makes a difference. Thanx Voryon for your thoughtful advice. Yours is truly a gorgeous strobe and I'm determined to get it. Oh and just as an aside, finally sprang for a good respirator. (Not wanting to replicate Mumbles barium poisoning). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voryon Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 I really don`t know what a digital bath scale is, but I would think that this is the thing I use for weighing my body which means it is capable of measuring XXX.X kg, which would be nowhere near practical for normal amateur pyro scale as I don`t think your making compositions by the tonne???? Apart from that (as I don`t think you are using a XXX.X kg scale), a scale that`s not capable of being calibrated (or better not adjustable) doesn`t seem to be trustworthy to me either...the fact that it is off by 5% strenghtens this belief, as weighing should be one of the most accurate methods we know. Just to say I do have quite some experience in this field, as a good part of my job is quality management in an analytical laboratory, we consider the last digit of a scale as uncertain which would be somewhere between 0,01 and 0,05% with a good lab scale and maybe 5-20 times worse with el cheapo scales (assuming we are weighing somewhere not too near the lower end of the operating range). I never ever had a problem with a pyro-composition being made considerung the rule of not trusting the last digit of my scale even with my cheap 200g/0,01g (20€) scale which would mean not weighing any single component with less than 0,1g. I do stress that point because this composition is a little "pyro-unusual" having single components that just contribute ~ 0.9 % which makes it necessary to have quite a low operating range when not making test composition by the kilo, which doesn’t matter when making 75-15-10… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shagaKahn Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 My fault for referencing "bath scale." It's the kind that usually goes in the bathroom and yes it's for weighing humans, not pyro. Do have quite a collection of cheapish digital scales accurate (supposedly) to 1/10th gram. It's with all these different scales together that I can compare a given weight and see if they all agree. (So far they do). More I study and try to produce strobe pots the more I appreciate the subtlety of this particular effect. Wondering if the "more traditional" strobes made with AP and straight Mg are easier and more dependable than those made with Mg/Al. Thanx as ever V--and I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shagaKahn Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 As I wait for still another try at this electric green to dry I'm wondering if anyone else has experimented with this comp? For strobes? Meantime, speak of more "conventional" strobes made with AP, here's a variation on my own Schizo-Strobe theme with a tighter strobe interval than that previous psycho model: http://tinyurl.com/6gmzrvc Again there's a fullscreen tab on the right side of the play bar. Though this one does have Barium salts, even with the camera stopped down to F11 I can detect no green in the flash. Gotta say I love the sound it makes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shagaKahn Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 OK, here's a vid with two more variations of your formula. You'll see there ain't much difference in the behavior of the two comps and there's still nothing even approximating a strobe effect: http://tinyurl.com/4wekbs7 May have to bag this experiment for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtoolpusher Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Be care full there, nitro guanidine is an oxygen generator in this formula , so you might get a a none flikering effect, find it orSee the thread here:http://www.amateurpy...ple-strobe-pot/ Leave out the Strontium and it makes an extremely vivid blue strobe. I've tried a few guanidine Nitrate strobes but never got anything particularly great, hence trying to formulate my own. The silicone blue strobe rocket fuel can apparently be made to strobe in a pot but I never managed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 Guanidine nitrate is not the same thing as nitroguanidine. Also, being an oxygen generator is how this formula works. It does make up part of the oxidizer content. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rveline Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 a green strobeammonium perchlorate 60barium sulfate 12barium carbonate 8magnalium -200mesh 16parlon(chlorinated rubber) 4 bind with NC laquerthis just works, you can add more MGAL and lower ammonium percclorate to increase strobe frequency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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