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Flash Booster


The-T

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Well, what size of shell are you making, and what is the burst you are boosting?

 

A lot of people have been using 2:1:1 Potassium Nitrate:Sulfur:Bright Al for shells. They coat BP coated hulls until no more will stick, and use this as is for the shells. This might be a good place to start. Trying to boost KP or H3 might be tricky. A little bit goes a long way.

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I have and likely always will use:

 

Potassium Nitrate - 5

Sulfur - 3

Dark (8 micron) Al - 2

 

It works spectacularly well in shells up to 5 inch. I have not considered it necessary for anything larger, but I imagine it would to just fine if your usual break is still somehow to weak for that size of shell.

 

EDIT: I forgot to mention, to boost the shells with this flash I'll usually just dust the break with the flash after it has been dumped in the shell. I then tap the casing lightly a few times to settle it. I also like this composition because it goes light on the valuable dark Al.

Edited by NightHawkInLight
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I use a different comp again, I follow this table though.

KNO3 – 50

Al (dark flake) – 30

S – 20

 

2” - 5g

3” - 7.5g

4” - 10g

5” - 15g

6” - 20g

7” - 30g

8” - 40g

 

I use the continuous gummed tape method of pasting, equal to 6 layers.

 

I cut down on the flash for some shells (with a tail effect), the stars seem to spread out too much and loose the dense tails, I use the amount required for a shell 1" smaller. i.e a 4" would use 7.5g and an 8" would use 30g.

 

Add bp on hulls burst like normal then dump half of the flash into each hemi and close.

Edited by Sambo
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Hi,

i haven't experiense in fp but why nitrate flash is safer than klo4/al?

nitrates are more reactive in al,rigth?so why is safe?

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It's much less sensitive to shock and friction, I don't know about static though. It makes the work with it more comfortable. This doesn't mean that you can treat it like a barbarian though, it's still a flash mix.

 

As for me, I think boosters aren't necessary from shells bigger than 2" if you paste the correct number of layers. BP on hulls can be enough. Then also, it can be a difference of taste. Some people make a 3" shell to break like with a radius of 200 meters, others are satisfied with 50 meters.

Personally, I use H3 for streamer star shells and BP on hulls for colored shells. I don't put a booster.

Edited by 50AE
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I'm not going to venture into which is safer, although nitrate flashes seem less sensitive because it's less powerful. Nitrate flashes seem to burn slower which provides more of a burst than a shattering force which I feel is the main reason they are used more frequently.
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I've tired a few different burst/booster combinations, and I agree with some of the previous replies.....for 3 to 5" shells, I use BP on hulls and then 1-1.5G of slow flash (50/30/20 - Nitrate/S/Al) as a booster. Assuming the correct pasting is done based on shell size, this combination gives the best all around break IMO.
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I have and likely always will use:

 

Potassium Nitrate - 5

Sulfur - 3

Dark (8 micron) Al - 2

 

It works spectacularly well in shells up to 5 inch. I have not considered it necessary for anything larger, but I imagine it would to just fine if your usual break is still somehow to weak for that size of shell.

 

EDIT: I forgot to mention, to boost the shells with this flash I'll usually just dust the break with the flash after it has been dumped in the shell. I then tap the casing lightly a few times to settle it. I also like this composition because it goes light on the valuable dark Al.

 

Would using 3 micron Al affect the performance? I've been told the smaller the particle size the better. Does this mean the smaller the particle the more sensitive?

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It'd be about equal assuming the same particle shape. When you get this fine, it makes little difference. Indian Blackhead is listed as 8 micron, while German blackhead is usually listed around 3-5 micron. They both preform about the same. Depending on who you ask, you'll get different answers as to which is more powerful or loud. I honestly wouldn't bother with hot Al for a slow flash. I use -325 mesh dark flake (Eckhart 10890) for my slow flash. I think it lights stuff a bit better.
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I honestly wouldn't bother with hot Al for a slow flash. I use -325 mesh dark flake (Eckhart 10890) for my slow flash. I think it lights stuff a bit better.

 

I purchased, on a common auction site, Al that is less than technical grade, but is pure and roughly -350 mesh It works great for thermite!, but it doesn’t work (at all) for small amounts of KCLO4 flash powder. For slow flash, this might be a resource?

 

Skycastlfish

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