Problem with Stars

[jrin0630]

I made my first batch of pumped TT stars the other day. I used the standard Shimizu comp formula. All the chemicals used are between 300-400 mesh, so I didn't ball mill (don't have one yet). I mixed thoroughly through a sieve several times and then wet with 70/30 water/alch. mix and then I dusted them with BP. I then dried them on a screen in a shed that is roughly 78-85 degrees and about 80% humidity. I tried to light one yesterday (after 2 complete days of drying) and the only thing that lit was the prime. I could not get the star to light at all. I was thinking that maybe they did not have enough time to dry? Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

[TheSidewinder]

They're almost certainly still wet.

 

If it's a high charcoal content, they can take weeks to dry and especially in the humidity you're talking about.

 

You need to get them somewhere warm *and* dry.

 

A lot of people have drying boxes simply because they will NEVER dry in the humid environment where they live.

[jrin0630]

They're almost certainly still wet.

 

If it's a high charcoal content, they can take weeks to dry and especially in the humidity you're talking about.

 

You need to get them somewhere warm *and* dry.

 

A lot of people have drying boxes simply because they will NEVER dry in the humid environment where they live.

 

That's what I figured. Do you know where I can find info on building a basic drying box?

[Miech]

It ain't that hard. A drying box can be as simple as a tupperware box with a layer of moisture absorbent on the bottom. Put a sieve a little raised above that, and lie your stars on the sieve.

[andyboy]

Quick and easy sketch of a simple drying box. Remember that some stars don't like being force dried, some may react because of the applied heat and some may be driven in (driven in means they form a hard dry layer on the surface that doesn't allow the rest of the solvent to escape from the star). drying.bmp

[firetech]

Comps like that is meant to be milled and should be millled. However, since you are using coarser charcoal you can use a lesser amount of it in the composition because it will burn slower and still produce good sparks.

[Mumbles]

I actually kind of like the look of TT unmilled. It has a more delicate looking tail. If I want something thick and bushy, I use something else. It will probably be fine as is, assuming the chemicals are as fine as he states. If I do mill it, I only mill half of the charcoal in.

[Seymour]

Going back to the topic of drying stars (specifically tigertail) in a drying cabinet...

 

Jrin, you may have already come across the term 'driven in' in your reading on this subject. It is the phenomenon whereby the surface of a star (or comet, whatever) dries fast, and forms a layer that is almost impermiable to water, which locks the moisture in the centre of the star for months.

 

Now, I'm not saying that this has happened to your stars, they are probably just not dry yet, because Tigertail stars usually take a week or two to dry. However it is my advice to resist the temptation to dry these stars ASAP. When Tigertail and other similar (high charcoal) stars are dried in a drying cabinet, they are almost always allowed to dry out to an extent in a dark, cool place for a few days first.

 

While this may seem somewhat counter intuative, it is the fastest way to dry them.

 

Note that this does not apply to all stars, most dry 'normally'. However neither is it limited only to stars with a high charcoal content. As another example, Shellac bound stars are known for this too.

 

 

 

Note that the argument over if you should ball mill it is a matter of taste. Also note that Mumbles will be using pre-powdered charcoal. If your charcoal is liumps or very coarse, I suggest ball milling regardsless.

[firetech]

My tigertail stars dry overnight. Since I press them in a plate and use very little water, I suppose that is why.

[jrin0630]

Going back to the topic of drying stars (specifically tigertail) in a drying cabinet...

 

Jrin, you may have already come across the term 'driven in' in your reading on this subject. It is the phenomenon whereby the surface of a star (or comet, whatever) dries fast, and forms a layer that is almost impermiable to water, which locks the moisture in the centre of the star for months.

 

Now, I'm not saying that this has happened to your stars, they are probably just not dry yet, because Tigertail stars usually take a week or two to dry. However it is my advice to resist the temptation to dry these stars ASAP. When Tigertail and other similar (high charcoal) stars are dried in a drying cabinet, they are almost always allowed to dry out to an extent in a dark, cool place for a few days first.

 

While this may seem somewhat counter intuative, it is the fastest way to dry them.

 

Note that this does not apply to all stars, most dry 'normally'. However neither is it limited only to stars with a high charcoal content. As another example, Shellac bound stars are known for this too.

 

 

 

Note that the argument over if you should ball mill it is a matter of taste. Also note that Mumbles will be using pre-powdered charcoal. If your charcoal is liumps or very coarse, I suggest ball milling regardsless.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I did read about the 'driven in' issue so rather than force the drying, I'll just let them sit for a full week or 2 and see how they test. And I am also using pre-powdered (airfloat) charcoal.