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KNO3 white


Ventsi

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I have been looking into making diff,comps with the 3 basic chemicals ,KNO3,CHARCOAL,SULFER , and have made several stars like chrysanthemum #6,#8, and am working on the white star#6 right now its cool to know all these different comps can be obtained from these 3 chemicals ,now back to ,white star #6 they are very hard to ignite ,I will let them dry for about 3 to 4 days and prime them also good to know that these will work better for some 3" ,4"shells. Well I have coated them with a good layer of straight meal prime and used 70/30 water alcohol this was yesterday and well I know for a fact that these babys need to dry really long at least another 2 days Well hope that works I know they got wet and from the looks of it yhey will take long to dry whistle.gif Edited by angelluis
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  • 1 year later...

Name; KNO3 White?

 

Type:White Flame Envelope.

 

Creator: Dont know?

 

Composition:

 

KNO3:59

 

Sulfur:30

 

Meal:11

 

Dextrin:5

Precations/Incompabilities: Sulfur-Chlorate incompabilities.

 

Procedure:

Well these stars tend to burn pretty slow so make 'em smell, ahem *small* :D .

 

Mix the ingridients well and throw them in your Ball mill for a good few hours or until they are very fine,

Bind with 75/25 water/alc

 

Pump/cut no bigger than 1/4".For 3",4"

For smaller shells Push your star comp through a 1/6" screen or simular.

 

Let dry and prime medium to thick with straigh BP.

 

These are amazingly bright considering their simple ingridients,Nothing compared to Antimony or Al formulas.

 

You can make great flares with this formula.

Enjoy. :rolleyes:

high!im chewy,i really like the simplicity of f the comp but i dnt have access to sulfur:( i tend to use sugar in place of sulfur just to see what i get lol,i there any substitutes i can use other than the sugar??that might work well

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  • 3 weeks later...
how could i bind this star with a chrysanthemum? I was thinking about it last night. I cant make any special effects with metals being all i have is kno3,sulfur,charcoal and dextrin. But i wanted to see if i could bind them so that my star has a white flaming tip and chrysanthemum fire dust/sparks leaving a tail behind it. I know its possible but not sure if ill have a decent star effect by doing so...could i mix a little dextrin with the 75%-25% water alcohol mix and use a tiny layer to glue the stars together?then prime it in meal ?
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That is basically how it works. It's usually done with pumped stars so you have nice flat faces to connect. They are usually wrapped with pasted paper to prevent them from separating in the air as they burn. They're called "married comets". You should read up on them if you're interested.
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i tried this and mins came out very hard and when lit.all they do is flash a white flame then goes to a small light blue flame,followed by more big white flame /flash then the tiny blue...its like a strobe. Any reason it came out that way? I milled it for lik 6hours
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ty! Ill try to find it asap and read it:)
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  • 4 weeks later...

I can't get this star to look like a white star in a shell or mine they look like a streemer with shgold sparks which looks ok but nothing like a white star, one the ground they look like a petty good clean white star

here is a picture of a shell with these stars (sorry it's the best picture I have of it)

bob

post-12936-0-31388400-1345769036_thumb.png

Edited by bob
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I can't get this star to look like a white star in a shell or mine they look like a streemer with shgold sparks which looks ok but nothing like a white star, one the ground they look like a petty good clean white star

here is a picture of a shell with these stars (sorry it's the best picture I have of it)

bob

 

I've certainly had sparks from this composition, but not to this extent... While it's a bit of a mystery and I'm not sure this will lead to your answer, how did you prepare the composition? Was it milled or screened together? What was the particle size of the charcoal in particular.

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Why not this one?

 

Potassium nitrate 64

Sulfur 18

Antimony trisulfide 14

Dextrin 4

 

Cheap, simple, safe. It's what they used before they had magnesium. It doesn't get as bright as Mg fueled stars, of course, but it does get white.

Edited by Potassiumchlorate
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Hello!

My own comp., simple & very clean white:

Potassium nitrate 52

Sulfur 19

MgAl (-200mesh) 22

Dextrin 7

Roll or cut, need BP prime (best- BP+10%MgAl)

Edited by Somov
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Why not this one?

 

Potassium nitrate 64

Sulfur 18

Antimony trisulfide 14

Dextrin 4

 

Cheap, simple, safe. It's what they used before they had magnesium. It doesn't get as bright as Mg fueled stars, of course, but it does get white.

 

no antimony trisulfide and no magnesium I only have kno3, sulfur, charcoal, dextrine.

I milled it in a 3 lbs mill for 3 hours it was good and fine I then used the water alcohol mix to wet it like they say to and cut the stars about 1/4 inch they burnt faster then I thought they wood as my TT burnt slower then them, the starting size of the charcoal was from 24 mesh down (the finest screen I have is 24 mesh) I gave them a good coat of green mix

I hope I get them working good

thanks for the help

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  • 5 weeks later...

here is a picture of a white star burning on the ground, and as you can see it's pretty white on the ground but as you can see in the picture I posted earler in the sky they look a lot differnet

bob

post-12936-0-36479200-1348714960_thumb.png

post-12936-0-16479400-1348714994_thumb.png

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  • 4 months later...
these things will hit the ground pumped to1/4 i have shot them in 2 inche shells bit havent tried in 3-4 yet
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yes .. however when screen mixin. there will be a a few that burn yellow there is a similar yellow variation to this comp specificly for yellow.. would have to dig for it in my note but i think that the occasional yellow may be due to screen mixing. these stars in 1-2 inch shells should be cut smaller than 1/4 to keep from hittin the ground. without prime are hard to ignite but once lit have a loong hang tyme in small shells
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yeah, this comp is awesome, expecialy when i have BP chems only. i have invented this to myself :P . I have only tried flares using this, need to try stars using this. also, i've tried to add NaCl to that, and it burned very yellow.
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I went back through these 3 pages and i didn't see it. Why couldn't you roll these stars? I tried cutting them didn't work out to good and the only pump i have got is a 1/2".
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You probably can roll them. I don't see anyone saying that you can't.

 

I was never all that impressed with the formula using just KNO3, sulfur, and charcoal. I never had any sort of tail from the composition, but the stars do burn for a long time, and I'd almost describe the color as a light grey. The organic ones with Sb2S3 are nicer to me, and there's certainly no mistaking a metallic white star. It's definitely easy to go overboard with metallic stars and over power everything else in the shell, and probably everything else for about 5 minutes afterwards.

 

As with all formulas, it's best to try them out yourself and see what you like. There's no doubt that they're quite economical to make.

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I cut some 1/4" and they seem like they burn between 5-10sec.
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could i cut small stars, and then roll TT or C8 on top? or before i need to prime with BP and then with TT or C8? Edited by Oinikis
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ive never tried them that way they just burn too long but ive primed similar comps with tt comp and theyve always worked well
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I tried TT and BP prime and still couldn't get them to lite, i lit some with a torch and they finely lit but they didn't seem to want to burn. I know they were dry cause they were forced dried for a week.
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i have some rubber whites i think theyll light with it.. being as i primed them before slicing ill try it and let you know how it turns out.. should be fine..if youve never made the rubber ones you dont have to buy the kjt. theres virtualy no learnin curve.there perfect for smaller shells i made my own frame for them outta 1 by 2s and rabbit fencing perfect 1/4 stars. burn tyme is 3-4 secs except the blue ones. 5 sec is about right.although im not using carbonates in them .i use nitrates for greens and reds and copper oxide for blue violet and indigo theres no water involved so theres no need to treat the magnalluim. and the last three dont even use magnallium...the organic ones no matter how many tymes ive tried them are just to aggrevating and fickle for me...personnelly..
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