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theoretically AC should work, if you have identical electrodes... they even should corrode equally.. I might even try that one day(no not from mains, but from my transformer)
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I don't think AC would work very well. As it dissolves the copper off one terminal, it would be plating them on the other.
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I recommend a automotive battery charger, but i dont see how AC could work, although it would not trip a breaker if the wires are far enough apart as this would increase resistance(ohm's).
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theoretically AC should work

I don't see how, as the polarity change would even out the electron transfer resulting in a net of zero. DC is the only option.

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I've done it before with AC (I know crazyboy I'm walking in blind). The only difference now is I'm using a razor blade as the graphite/non copper anode. The first batch was no good but this batch new batch looks green and black while the other was a sandy tan.

 

 

Before I even take more time on this, will copper oxide or any oxide for that matter make you bp burn faster.

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i doubt it

 

i have a question im filtering mine and its heavily contaminated with salt so it burns yellow is there a way to neutralize the salt/sodium? right now im just washing with water but it takes forever.

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Maybe sulfuric acid but i highly dought it and then you'll have to wash it with baking soda.
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Just lots of water washings.

 

You know mormonman, I do have to wonder where you get these ideas sometimes. Like where you heard guanidine nitrate was a blue or purple or pink flammable liquid, and why you think sulfuric acid would wash out sodium any better than water.

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Just lots of water washings.

 

You know mormonman, I do have to wonder where you get these ideas sometimes. Like where you heard guanidine nitrate was a blue or purple or pink flammable liquid, and why you think sulfuric acid would wash out sodium any better than water.

In mormonmans defense the phrase "neutralize sodium" probably threw him off.

 

 

Washing is the only thing that will work... Best deal with potassium ions I guess.

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on a separate note out of curiosity i have seen instructions that say: standard, dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol. how is this done? how much ethanol and how exactly do you go about making these stars? also where would you get ethanol?
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also where would you get ethanol?

Dude, I hope you're kidding..

 

.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol

 

I know Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source, but I'm guessing that they got this one right.

 

Look for rubbing alcohol, "Everclear", moonshine (the good stuff, not the stuff they cut for the tourists), or drygas.

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Just lots of water washings. 

 

You know mormonman, I do have to wonder where you get these ideas sometimes.  Like where you heard guanidine nitrate was a blue or purple or pink flammable liquid, and why you think sulfuric acid would wash out sodium any better than water.

In mormonmans defense the phrase "neutralize sodium" probably threw him off.

 

 

Washing is the only thing that will work... Best deal with potassium ions I guess.

Thanks thats what I was going for.

 

Anyways I still would like a second opinion on if copper oxide or iron oxide would make bp burn faster.

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also where would you get ethanol?

Dude, I hope you're kidding..

 

.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol

 

I know Wikipedia isn't the most reliable source, but I'm guessing that they got this one right.

 

Look for rubbing alcohol, "Everclear", moonshine (the good stuff, not the stuff they cut for the tourists), or drygas.

rubbing alcohol is ethyl alcohol i don't have everclear on hand and we don't have moonshine in the city.

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Metal oxides could possibly impact burn rate of black powder favorably... However i havn't seen any data to confirm or deny this. Infact i havn't seen any mention of it at all. The biggest factors as i understand it are: integration, density, and physical form... with moisture content, purity of chemicals, etc also playing a part.

 

If your meal isn't performing up to par in your opinion you can mill longer, mill with more media, compress your meal to a puck of whatever density and break it up into small granules of whatever size you desire (screening out for specific fractions), try mixing up the way you mill (ie milling for a while, making polverone from the meal, letting it dry, crushing it up again and milling again, then granulating), etc... Personally i just use commercial powder for lift and my homemade meal (underloaded mill, just milling straight dry chemicals) is good enough for stars, black match, and general priming, so for now im stickin with what i have.

 

 

For the random thread:

I got a $10 cheapo (but good) toolbox that looks to have enough space to become my pyro toolbox (finally)...ill use it for wire strippers, anvil cutter, hammer, safety glasses, ear protection, gloves, knee-guards, sun-screen, bug-spray, etc for when im helping out on displays... then add some quickmatch, visco, flares, e-match, etc for whenever i get a chance to go shoot some of my pyro off (none now) or class c stuff where-ever. I think it might even have enough room for my wireless firing system... hmm...

 

Also... Man... washing a firefighting suit by hand... then trying to dry it is an endurance trial. This would be the old oil rigger aluminized proximity style suit... going to use it (probably minus liners and definatly minus hood) for protection at the time of firing for shows... Then maybe use it when i eventually get a furnace going. The pants and jacket are pretty freaking sweet. Might use it on halloween. B)

 

I keep thinking about reloading 26.5mm and 12ga for flareguns... obsessive brain... perhaps ill get one and some reloading supplies for xmas.

 

Physics is kicking my butt.

 

Umm... im loving the weather... not hot, not cold... though i like it cold...

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rubbing alcohol is ethyl alcohol i don't have everclear on hand and we don't have moonshine in the city.

not even vodka? What about BBQ ignition fluid? Oh and you can make our own ethanol fairly easily.

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also where would you get ethanol?

 

rubbing alcohol is ethyl alcohol

Oh..right, how silly of me to confuse ethyl alcohol with ethanol :rolleyes: Thanks for clearing that up for me.

 

Try the paint department of a homecenter or hardware store and look for denatured alcohol.

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I thought rubbing alcohol was Isopropylic alcohol  :unsure:

Some is. General purpose medicinal alcohol IS isopropyl, and that's what you usually find, but you can generally find 70% ethyl if you look.

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Bob, the only reason I ask is I'm make that shell and its take for ever, anyway deadman told me that in helps improve the speed but (it might be my oxide) as far as I can tell it made it slower.

 

Edit+++

By the way, does anyone have an old 3 1/4" or 3 1/2" mortar they don't use anymore and is willing to sell it.

 

Or could I use a white pvc or black pvc pipe for a mortar, I'm scared they will explode though.

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mormanman:

How can you possibly have 500+ posts and be HE qualified and yet still ask a question about using PVC mortars? I'll let another respond to your primary question.

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Are you talking ID or OD on the mortars? Mortars are refered to by the ID by the way. I have no idea why you'dr request a weird ass size like that if ID. I would suggest against PVC for shells in every way possible, plus am wondering if you'd even find PVC in that ID.

 

I've recomended them a million times, but Kaster has some pretty good prices, and no minimum order.

http://www.kastnerhdpemortars.com/

 

I prefer HDPE for smaller shells as the price difference between them and fiberglass isn't that extreme(in some cases actually cheaper), and they can be used as formers for canister shells. Fiberglass mortars, at least the good ones, have a reinforced lip, which doesn't bode well for rolling canisters. Perhaps on the bottom you could.

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