Electric ignition

[joe609]

Hi

 

i Recently made an igntior it has about 5meters of wire lenght an LED to show that its on and a push to make switch to set it off. i use 4 AA batteries to power it. What are your ignitors like and how much wire lenght do you get for the ammount of batteries you use?

[Pretty green flame]

I use normal bridge wire ignitors, they're made out of steel wool and work great. I can reliably fire them over a 40 meter cable with 7 Ni/MH batteries wired in series. Works great and is instant, fires with a small pop.

[justanotherpyro]

I have 100 feet of house electrical wire that I clip on a 2 foot leed of thin gauge speaker wire with a bridged ignitor at the end. I have a modifed light switch that is the fireing system and the whole system runs off of a car battery.

 

I need the amperage to get my thick bridge to ignite, thus the car battery.

[Frozentech]

Hi

 

i Recently made an igntior it has about 5meters of wire lenght an LED to show that its on and a push to make switch to set it off. i use 4 AA batteries to power it. What are your ignitors like and how much wire lenght do you get for the ammount of batteries you use?

I've started using the pre-wired ignitor 'chips' from skylighter, dipped in a dark flash primer, with BP over that. During testing I got instant ignition over 500 feet of twinlead wire with 2 9V batteries in series.

[Spoony]

I just use normal bridged nicrome ignitors. I like my e-det, it has a key switch to arm it, a shrouded toggle switch to fire it, and a red LED to show that the circuit is complete.

 

Pics: http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=2/5111521026.jpg&s=x11

[Rogue Chemist]

http://www.xsorbit2.com/users/apcforum/Att...ion_system2.JPG

[justanotherpyro]

Haha. Mine is a light switch with a flip cover. Nothing fancy but it works.

[Swany]

Mine would be a roll of speaker wire, still on the spool, with one end put on the inside, a push button switch, and a 9v battery soldered all togeather. The end has some clips to clip the actual matches with some extra length on, as not to torch my precious clips.

 

As with most of my homade things, it is highly functional, but looks like something that came from hell to visit me.

[joe609]

Your ignitors are really good, has anyone tried ignition from a timer.

[snow]

i have home made timers that coast me about 1.5$ us each

and i realy dont undersatnd y are you all using wire ignition?

the timers are less expensive, and i think more relible (the wires are shorter and the chanse of disconection is realy small) also they are great with ignition near police stations

[Boomer]

Very funny...

 

The wire is there to get some distance. Wonna go back have a look if it did not det?

[joe609]

the wire ignition is so that you can set whatvever off at the press of a button, why would you set it up to a timer when an electric ignitor is easier. unless your using it for explosives and need to get further away.

[snow]

the wire ignition is so that you can set whatvever off at the press of a button, why would you set it up to a timer when an electric ignitor is easier. unless your using it for explosives and need to get further away.

they are realy not easyer!! you should try the timer option and the time you can check before the ignition - just the timer and the volt meter just like you do with your wire ignition

 

and

set it up to a timer when an electric ignitor is easier

not realy with the wire ignitor you should mess with all the wires un like with the timer when you just juting the E mach into where ever you want, connest the battary and run do the same things that you have to do with your wire ignitor ....

 

oo and boomer

The wire is there to get some distance. Wonna go back have a look if it did not det?

no i can set a timer instead of the wire ignition

[joe609]

What so you have to rewire a new timer everytime? or do you use the same one

[snow]

What so you have to rewire a new timer everytime? or do you use the same one

usualy i blow mine i like it(more distruction : ) but you can get longer wires

[ActionTekJackson]

Haha. Mine is a light switch with a flip cover. Nothing fancy but it works.

Hey JAP, you should measure the Ohms on the steal wool for me. I think I wanna make the switchboard battery powered so we can use cheaper wire. I'm also considering the wireless method with the garage door thing, what about a tv remote and reciever. I know its line of sight but thats fine cuz we'd want the main reciever/switch unit far enough away so it wouldn't get destroyed. Plus it'd reduce possible pretty much any possible accidental ignitions from interference.

[justanotherpyro]

I don't like messing with steel wool, its to unreliable. I use the inner part of a tiwst tie instead.

[iv81]

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?s...prclo=&saprchi=

 

Those ^ can work pretty well. number of ch = how many you want to set off at differet intervals each time. Upto 1200 feet away.

 

I have one and used the 1ch before for remote control door locks and don't see why they wouldn't work for electric matches.

 

Connectors for 1ch unit I worked with:

 

1- 2- 3- 4- 5-

 

^ (from left to right)

 

1- (ground for 2) stays off untill on (button held down)

 

2- (positive) +1-240v feed

 

3- (ground for 2) stays on untill off (button held down) - don't use this, duh!

 

4- (positive) +12v for the receiver switch

 

5- (ground) -12v for the receiver switch

 

Note: You could use same +12v you use for the receiver on the matches.

Also make sure you get one or set the jumper to only toggle only when you hold the button down not release. It's either NC or NO, don't recall. Make sure you keep a yard lenght of the receiver and match away using wires so the receiver doesnt get damaged and can be used for next time. And don't foget to program your remote to work with the receiver (button on receiver). Some are not preprogrammed and will require you to do so.

[ActionTekJackson]

Ok, here's an Idea I had. How about using a tv remote and the coordinating reciever. iR line of sight would be fine cuz you'd want a view of what you were gonna light off anyway. The idea is, say you want to set off a certain device, press the "power" button, that signal is translated and only sends current to one section of the board, find that (easily done) and connect that current to a servos. The servos then moves to flip a switch which is connecting the Pyro device you want to set off to a higher voltage power source. Now you can have as many switches and servos as you have buttons on the remote. Of course you'd want to make the lead wires from the switch have some distance so as not to destroy the reciever. Here's a pic of it I did in paint maybe that'll help. iR Switchboard

 

-suggestions, comments, am I being retarded and overlooking something?

[Boomer]

Why use servos to move *mechanical* switches? That's like having a small steam engine just for fuel injection on a diesel locomotive!

 

Use the signal that would trigger the servo to switch a relay or transistor. You also get "servos" that are only swithes, e.g. for lights/horn etc of a truck model.

[snow]

fuck y dont you just make a timer it will coast max 2.5$

i built mine for 0$ (got the parts from schools and stuff , and i have 20 units)

http://555-timer.clarkson-uk.com/operation/delay.html

[h0lx]

I remember people once arguing about computer controlled ignition. It was probably on the old board. Anyway how about replacing one of your computer's fans with an ignitor, turning the fan off and to detonate, turn it on. It's as easy as reconnecting 2 wires and downloading speedfan, too.