Whistle mix

[asilentbob]

As will I.

[TzaRocket]

Tryed today a piece of that whistle made with NC laquer and here is how it went(quite socking):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTM9HR9exb4

[qwezxc12]

I get, "Cette vidéo n'est pas disponible."..."This video is not available" in French.

[TzaRocket]

Sorry about that,my bad.The video has some kind of problem

I will upload it again

[TzaRocket]

Here i fixed it:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R-chaEQksM

[cplmac]

That should do it for a break, looks pretty similar to BP actually.

[Draco_Americanus]

I use Naphtha as my solvent for the petrolium jelly as it seems to work better allthough this solvent may be harder to find in some areas

[oskarchem]

I just made a whistle rocket with the 70:30 KClO4:Sodium Benzoate, from Passfire, I know that this is a burst charge but I just wanted to try it out in a rocket. The rocket took off like 5m but then it just exploded, I made a nozzle, and somthing tells me that they don't take nozzles...

[cplmac]

They don't take clay nozzles. Did you use whistle rocket tooling? Whistle rockets need a much shorter core than BP rockets as well. You really should use vaseline in your fuel, sodium benze and sodium salicylate are very hygroscopic, and it makes getting the tooling out a bit easier.

[lnstantkarma]

They don't take clay nozzles. Did you use whistle rocket tooling? Whistle rockets need a much shorter core than BP rockets as well. You really should use vaseline in your fuel, sodium benze and sodium salicylate are very hygroscopic, and it makes getting the tooling out a bit easier.

What do you mean by they don't take clay nozzles? Don't they need nozzles?

[cplmac]

Nope. Whistle rockets don't need nozzles. They do need a core, but not a nozzle. The fuel is powerful enough to not require a nozzle and to powerful to use one. Your core should be 1/3 the ID of the motor in width and roughly twice the length of the ID.

[lnstantkarma]

OMG I wonder how many catos it would have taken me to learn that lol, (I'm going to start making them soon) I'll remember that rule for the core for when I make the tooling.

[cplmac]

If you are going to turn your own tooling let me make a couple of suggestions. First, use aluminum or stainless steel, second make sure to put some pitch on the spindle about 1-2 degrees so it comes out easier, third, put a little stand off on the bottom so that the core starts maybe half inch up in the tube. The standoff will help with the whistle sound, and make sure you attach it to the base as strongly as possible. I use 3-4 roll pins to prevent the spindle from shearing off when I remove the spindle, which I have done with three sets of tooling so far.

[lnstantkarma]

All good suggestions and I've been doing those things and I'm starting to get good. Except I only use one pin on mine and it would be hard to fit another one it there unless I made the base bigger. The POS lathe I use at my school doesn't have any working taper tool but I've been doing it without it.

But standoff is a new one to me. Is that like a 30* angle at the nozzle instead of just being flat? Or is it just a blank space that lets the comp grip better? Oh and we don't have roll pins I just use tight fitting nails lol

[cplmac]

Left is Wolter 2lb whistle SS, center is rough cut of my 3lb whistle on Al, on right is Wolter ni-tuf 3lb strobe tooling.

http://pyrobin.com/files/p7260008.jpg

 

 

You can see how on the commercial tooling there is a short section of the tooling that is the full diameter, it has not been machined down. The motor will fit over this section creating a small cavity in the motor. With whistle rockets you want this cavity, it will assist in pitch and volume for the whistle.

 

This is the 3 and 6 pound whistle tooling I turned before I cut the delay down and mounted them on bases. The 6 pound is actually a little weak, might need a longer core.

 

 

http://www.pyrobin.com/files/p7270010.jpg

[psyco_1322]

Is there even a taper on that Wolter whistle tooling?

 

Also, I noticed your tooling looks quite different from Wolters. Not so much of a taper on the bottom "nozzle" area and not as pointed on the tip. Any reasoning behind that?

 

Hows that Al work for pressing? Whats it pollished with?

 

I serously have way to many spindles programed for a CNC lathe at school. My teacher doesnt really like SS so they may end up in brass, if Al isnt that good of a choice for pressing with.

[Mumbles]

Yes, the wolter tooling has a very slight taper, at least from the ones I've seen and worked with. Like cpl said, it's only 1-2 degrees. I think the diagram I have at home specifies 1.5 percent, but it doesn't actually matter. It's more for removal ease than any sort of performance effect.

[cplmac]

The aluminum will be fine, although with 4 and 6 pounders you would be better off with SS, not sure about brass haven't worked with it. I polished it with 1200 grit sandpaper, but keep in mind I was controlling the lathe tooling by hand, that's why this tooling is such a mess. The very bottom taper that leads into the core I like as flat as possible. The flatter that taper the louder the whistle I think, still it should not be perfectly flat. Also the flatter that taper the less surface area to break free from, although with a heavier taper it's probably a wash mechanically. The only problem I've had with Al spindles is their tendency to shear off the baseplate when removing them from the core. This can be fixed by using 3-4 good size roll pins, just drill through the bottom of your base into the spindle with the recommended drill bit size for that pin and tap it in. This will just about eliminate any shearing issues. I haven't had one shear since I added them to all of my tooling, and I've had to torque the hell out of several of them to get them free from the core.

[Richtee]

Question: Do small <I believe 2 Oz.> whistle rockets need tooling as well, or can I just press the mix solid? The ID of my cases is like .375".

[Mumbles]

To be fair, nothing NEEDS tooling. It just makes life easy and convenient, as well as consistent. However, I bet you could knock up something quick to make due. I wouldn't be drilling out the core, but something as easy as a special rammer with a cone or point could do the job. Sometimes you have to think backwards. Use a flat rammer for all but the last couple increments. A base would also work. 2oz rockets are probably less sensitive to design.