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Posted (edited)

Looking to add some nice tails to my colored stars… between Ti (sponge -10+20 mesh and spherical -30+100), FeTi (-40+325 and -30+60), MgAl (-30+60), or aluminum flitters (-20+80), what kinds of effects can I expect? From what I’ve read, particles under 100 mesh are likely to burn within the flame envelope and wash out the color. I’m assuming that coarser metals will give longer hanging but more sparse tails, and are best suited to larger stars/comets. Besides these general guidelines, I’ve noticed that the combustion temperature of the composition also plays a role.
 

If anyone has any insight on the best strategy for adding metals for a tail aside from simple trial and error with test batches, let me know! Also looking for good bright/bushy (fast-burning) comet formulas in general, streamers/glitters/colors, if anyone has any favorites to share. 

Edited by LiamPyro
Posted (edited)

I tried Feti once, in a aqua or green iirc. It totally ruined the color. I believe most of it burned up in the flame envelope. That was probably the -40+325 variety.

This is a green 4" comet. With spherical TI pressed in only one half/end of it. Think it was -30+100. What ever that cheaper spherical Ti was.  That was readily available 10-15 years ago . A little sparse, but " worked ".

I would guess the effect probably works best, with organic fueled color stars. Or color stars with a lower metal fueled content.

John Werner's silver comet formula, was always a favorite of mine. It looks great with just about any coarse metal in it. Especially Mg/Al -8+30 and spherical Ti -30+100. Usually for comets/stars I generally gravitated towards coarser metals like +50 if not +30. 

First shell is C6 plus coarse Ti flake. It's pressed in to tube's. So I imagine as comets. It would probably be brighter and bushier. A farfalla comp is/would be very similar.

https://youtu.be/SYpqqD_k6_Y?feature=shared

Edited by Carbon796
Posted

Nice videos, thanks for sharing! Do you mind sharing the silver comet formula? I’m not able to find it online.

Posted (edited)

John Werner's silver comet.

.54 kno3

.18 Sufur

.09 AL -50+150 granular aluminum

.08 AF charcoal 

.03 Mg/AL -200

.03 Chinese needle 

.05 Dex

I listed his first name incorrectly above. Probably didn't help, corrected it.

Edited by Carbon796
Posted

Great, thanks! The types of aluminum I have on hand are the coarse flitters mentioned above, as well as atomized 200-325 mesh, bright flake (325 mesh?), and some dark pyro aluminum. Do you think the flitters would be the best substitute for the granular aluminum in the formula? 

Posted

Yes, IMHO that would be the best place to start, for that formula. With what you currently have on hand.  But, I would try to get ahold of some coarse chunky Mg/AL or AL for the future. Iirc the original spec AL in that formula has a really nice sizzle to it, in flight. And a very coarse Mg/AL will almost have a glitter quality to it.

 

 

Posted

I currently have all the metals listed in the original post, so 30-60 mesh MgAl is an option too. Maybe I’ll give that a shot. I like the idea of a sizzling comet!

Posted (edited)

Yes, that would definitely be one to try.

If you have the -30+100 spherical Ti also. I would try both of those before the thinner flake AL. Just be mindful of your tooling. The Ti will ruin it quick.

Iirc, I shot a few of those as 2" comets, with the spherical Ti. At a few club meets. And they always impressed.

 

Edited by Carbon796
Posted

Luckily most of my tooling is homemade with loose tolerances (or easily replaceable parts) so I don’t have to worry about using Ti/FeTi of any mesh. I’ll make some test comets. Thanks for the advice!

Posted

Woody's tooling is made with plastic parts that sacrifice themselves to sharp metals cheaply and can be easily and cheaply replaced.

Posted

For your flitter aluminum you can try this formula. It is my personal, metal fueled streamer comet comp. 

.50 KP

.15 German flake coarse

.15 flitter coarse 

.10 -325 bright flake

.05 IBA/German drk

.05 Sulfur 

+ .035 SGRS or .05/06 dex

It is harder to light, but the S & IBA make it easier. Use a hot prime. The German flake is thicker/denser than flitters AL. It will light up and hang/float in the air. Much more than a flitter type ( FYI )  but with your materials try .10 or .15 -325 & .30 or .25 AL flitter. It should still look pretty nice.

Posted

Ok thanks for the formula! I’ve been looking to try some KP/Al flitter/wave comps. Would monocapa light this, or does it need an even hotter prime?

Posted

I've never used the monocapa prime. But. It works on the same thermitic principle, of what I used. So my guess is, it should be fine. You're just not going to get those lit, with only a thin coat of scratch mix prime . . .

Posted

In terms of coarse flitter aluminum there are two distinct products available. I'll link to some suppliers below, but there is material produced by Transmet (K-101 and 102), and there is material produced by Eckart (41813). I can't say with absolute certainty, but I think the material below listed as Aluminum flake 18 mesh is K-102. The Transmet material is either a rectangle (K-101) or a square (K-102) shape, and is fairly thick by flake aluminum standards. It's better quality than what this is about to sound like, but it's basically sliced up heavy duty aluminum foil. The Eckart stuff is stamp milled, and much thinner and coated in stearin. It has a wider particle size variation. These two materials are most commonly used for the Firefly effect. The Transmet material is a little harder to light and sometimes takes a little dialing in or additives.

https://www.pyrochemsource.com/Aluminum-Flake-Eckart-41813G_p_44.html

https://www.pyrochemsource.com/Aluminum-Flake-18-mesh_p_45.html

https://transmet.com/products/aluminum-flakes/

I just wanted to point this out as one might be better suited toward what you want to do. I'd expect the Transmet material to fall out of star or comet tails a little more readily and maybe burn a little longer by virtue of being a little thicker. The Eckart material, with is more variable particle size, may give a fuller tail. The Eckart material can also be screened to remove some of the finer material if you're having issues with it washing out the start color. This is also necessary for Firefly to ensure the effect isn't given away too early.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Interesting info about aluminum types, thanks Mumbles. I actually ordered a small amount of aluminum flitters from United Nuclear when I was picking up some other samples, so I'm not sure exactly which grade it is. It's quite coarse though. I'll have to take another look, but it does appear to have that "sliced up aluminum foil" consistency. 

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