Thanks, I will treasure what you told me, because, there is always something to learn from the opinion of another, however, the aluminum used in the glitter is atomized, different from the pyro of the flash, which It is attacked by potassium nitrate, unless boric acid is used. What I know and my reputation are relatively unimportant, as on the other hand perfect knowledge of a language that is not my mother tongue, I intervened in the discussion because almost every week in the factory where I work "stutate" are made, I know Fulcanelli's work well I had the pleasure of reading it several times, in many things I don't agree with it, in many there are excellent work ideas. I believe that between us there is a difference in the approach to building shells ,The system I use is based on the least possible use of Bp , I understand that the opposite is true for you. Bp is a precious and expensive thing, which in the construction in the Italian style, we tried to reduce as much as possible. For this reason the use of bp coated substrates with the addition of chlorate based additives or perchlorate and a high temperature fuel has been promoted greatly.The idea of the person who opened the thred, that is to granulate the flash mixture, is not new, but being a slow flash (often called spanish booster in this forum)The idea is fundamentally wrong, since humidity ruins the pyrotechnic aluminum as I have already said, reducing its performance. Even more wrong to mix green mix or bp milled together to the slow flash and then granulate everything together both for the effect of the humidity and for the imbalance between the ingredients that would be created. As I suggested, it is better to add it in powder to the bp. I have personally tried three methods, support covered with bp and covered with per/chlorate aluminum in a ratio of one to ten, support covered with bp and dusted with Booster per/chlorate and mgal/al, flash bag with a hot break charge Al/perchlorate or chlorate.The first two worked well, the third was a failure. Of the three, I prefer the second because tuning is easier. In the factory, the First is used because it is easier and faster for large batch.
No one is talking about Spanish booster except you. And the OP. Comprehension, work on it.
Potassium nitrate comps, also containing aluminum. Are not moisture sensitive. Glitters and "flitter comps frequently contain both. And, are commonly water bound. There is no issue with doing that. Unless your comp, ALSO contains components that can push the PH to being alkaline. Noobs continually love to "push and repeat" that imaginary issue. Forgetting or not knowing. That they don't know the entire background or circumstances that can potentially cause that.
" So someone have to learn how to comunicate and May Be read a book of basic pyro knowlege. "
That person is clearly you.
" Working in a italian fireworks factory i know of what I'm saying "
Most people who actually do. Don't have to try, and con others into believing that they do. And, maybe if you stayed on point. And quit trying to pretend. I've said or suggested something. That I have clearly not. Your reputation and experience level, wouldn't seem to be so poor.
Stutata burst charge
Posted 15 January 2023 - 02:04 PM
Posted 23 January 2023 - 01:11 AM
I have very carefully disassembled a 100mm scala 8 from italy. There were some interesting things that I didnt expect.
I would recommended against disassembling pyrotechnic devices, I didnt use a single tool during the disassembly, I untied the spiking knots, unspiked the shell and unwrapped the paper very carefully.
As soon as I noticed that the burst charge wasnt black but very slightly grey I already knew that extra caution is needed.
I didnt disassemble the Ti-Salute inserts since I do not know what kind of flashpowder they contain.
Posted Today, 08:45 AM
Yea i have seen some videos and i am aware of the way they made. The only info i am missing is the burst charge. I was thinking to expirament by myself till i found the correct ratios but before that i was wondering if anyone got the info. I was thinking just to try various mixes of spanish booster and B. I made some with 50/50 booster and BP but they broke really hard. Stars was TT and they didnt even light up or they may beoke up due to hard break. Yes i am interested
Any luck? As I'm just about out of TF from other endeavors, I'm curious to see what you end up using and how it works. I can make shell of shell inserts with mini spolettes at least.
I've never had much luck using any booster or flash breaking shells that contain inserts (I've only tried SFB and Whistle). Whistle certainly didn't work well in igniting the cross matched inserts, or mini spolette fused inserts. I've had mixed luck with SFB and inserts.
If you're willing, I'd love to hear what you learn.
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