33 replies to this topic

[kingkama]

No one is talking about Spanish booster except you. And the OP. Comprehension, work on it.

Potassium nitrate comps, also containing aluminum. Are not moisture sensitive. Glitters and "flitter comps frequently contain both. And, are commonly water bound. There is no issue with doing that. Unless your comp, ALSO contains components that can push the PH to being alkaline. Noobs continually love to "push and repeat" that imaginary issue. Forgetting or not knowing. That they don't know the entire background or circumstances that can potentially cause that.

" So someone have to learn how to comunicate and May Be read a book of basic pyro knowlege. "

That person is clearly you.

" Working in a italian fireworks factory i know of what I'm saying "

Most people who actually do. Don't have to try, and con others into believing that they do. And, maybe if you stayed on point. And quit trying to pretend. I've said or suggested something. That I have clearly not. Your reputation and experience level, wouldn't seem to be so poor.

Thanks, I will treasure what you told me, because, there is always something to learn from the opinion of another, however, the aluminum used in the glitter is atomized, different from the pyro of the flash, which It is attacked by potassium nitrate, unless boric acid is used. What I know and my reputation are relatively unimportant, as on the other hand perfect knowledge of a language that is not my mother tongue, I intervened in the discussion because almost every week in the factory where I work "stutate" are made, I know Fulcanelli's work well I had the pleasure of reading it several times, in many things I don't agree with it, in many there are excellent work ideas. I believe that between us there is a difference in the approach to building shells ,The system I use is based on the least possible use of Bp , I understand that the opposite is true for you. Bp is a precious and expensive thing, which in the construction in the Italian style, we tried to reduce as much as possible. For this reason the use of bp coated substrates with the addition of chlorate based additives or perchlorate and a high temperature fuel has been promoted greatly.The idea of ​​the person who opened the thred, that is to granulate the flash mixture, is not new, but being a slow flash (often called spanish booster in this forum)The idea is fundamentally wrong, since humidity ruins the pyrotechnic aluminum as I have already said, reducing its performance. Even more wrong to mix green mix or bp milled together to the slow flash and then granulate everything together both for the effect of the humidity and for the imbalance between the ingredients that would be created. As I suggested, it is better to add it in powder to the bp. I have personally tried three methods, support covered with bp and covered with per/chlorate aluminum in a ratio of one to ten, support covered with bp and dusted with Booster per/chlorate and mgal/al, flash bag with a hot break charge Al/perchlorate or chlorate.The first two worked well, the third was a failure. Of the three, I prefer the second because tuning is easier. In the factory, the First is used because it is easier and faster for large batch.

[Kalifireworks]

Hi.

I have very carefully disassembled a 100mm scala 8 from italy. There were some interesting things that I didnt expect.

Notice:
I would recommended against disassembling pyrotechnic devices, I didnt use a single tool during the disassembly, I untied the spiking knots, unspiked the shell and unwrapped the paper very carefully.
As soon as I noticed that the burst charge wasnt black but very slightly grey I already knew that extra caution is needed.

I didnt disassemble the Ti-Salute inserts since I do not know what kind of flashpowder they contain.


https://fastupload.i...hSQHHIE1L3/file

[cmjlab]

Yea i have seen some videos and i am aware of the way they made. The only info i am missing is the burst charge. I was thinking to expirament by myself till i found the correct ratios but before that i was wondering if anyone got the info. I was thinking just to try various mixes of spanish booster and B. I made some with 50/50 booster and BP but they broke really hard. Stars was TT and they didnt even light up or they may beoke up due to hard break. Yes i am interested

Any luck? As I'm just about out of TF from other endeavors, I'm curious to see what you end up using and how it works. I can make shell of shell inserts with mini spolettes at least.

I've never had much luck using any booster or flash breaking shells that contain inserts (I've only tried SFB and Whistle). Whistle certainly didn't work well in igniting the cross matched inserts, or mini spolette fused inserts. I've had mixed luck with SFB and inserts.

If you're willing, I'd love to hear what you learn.

[THEONE]

I have not try anything yet. I will let you know when i will have some info

Edited by THEONE, 28 January 2023 - 03:19 PM.

[Kalifireworks]

For Main burst charge I use 3-5mm blackpowder coated cork granules mixxed with a bit of Course polverone. For stutatas where all the inserts go off at the same time I dust the Burst charge with a bit of slow flash. For this method it is highly recommend to use Cork granules as a coating Media because it flows alot better than rice hulls.

For the Inserts burst charge I use 35Kno3/35Kclo4/30AlDark. You need very well primed Stars for hard breaks. The italian inserts sometimes break insanely hard.

Here Is what I was able to do with a tiny 4" cylinder.

https://www.amateurp...saic-redsilver/

Edited by Kalifireworks, 28 January 2023 - 11:20 PM.

[dangerousamateur]

What is in your opinion the best way to fuse and prime inserts that go into a very hard broken shell?

 

Bombettes from cakes made in china often have just a piece of visco fuse pressed into the plug. I found this never works with inserts in a hard broken shell.

A real crossmatched spoletta is needed.

 

 

I find making really good BP is a lot of work with my small ballmill, while slowflash is made relatively quickly.

Some nitrate flash, maybe dilluted with greenmix to keep it from developing to much shattering effect would suit my needs much better.

Do you find this a realistic option?

[Kalifireworks]

For the inserts I use PL6 Fuse from Portugal. Its 6mm time fuse with a plastic outer coating. You cut the fuse the exact same lenght and insert it into a thin soft 6mm ID tube and tie the timefuse in place with string. Then add blackmatch like a regular spolette. As you can see in my Video this created spot on timing, every insert went of the exact same time.

[dangerousamateur]

 

I use PL6 Fuse from Portugal

Never had it in my hands. How does it compare to bickford fuse?

[cmjlab]

Here Is what I was able to do with a tiny 4" cylinder.

https://www.amateurp...saic-redsilver/

That was impressive. Looked like some quality craftsmanship on making the shell too.

You said "PLxxx" Time Fuse which was plastic wrapped. Is that the blasting fuse? I don't think that's available here in the U.S. in hobby quantities.

I have however used a similar construction with the Chinese knock off Time Fuse, especially on short pieces, where I glue it into a small section of tube and finish it like a spolette with black match to increase the fire spit.

I also can't argue against the insert break comp that you are using, those were pretty good looking!

Charles

[cmjlab]

 
Bombettes from cakes made in china often have just a piece of visco fuse pressed into the plug. I found this never works with inserts in a hard broken shell.

Though we criticize the quality of Chinese products, you gotta hand it to them that their fusing is pretty effective for such a quick method, and their stars light no matter how hard they break the shell/insert - none of which would work for me!

Ive seen some people suggest that their use of visco is effective because it's not the same coated Visco we see / buy here. The uncoated Visco takes fire / spits sparks from the side easily. Maybe that's a main factor for their method.

Charles

Edited by cmjlab, 29 January 2023 - 02:48 PM.

[kingkama]

For Main burst charge I use 3-5mm blackpowder coated cork granules mixxed with a bit of Course polverone. For stutatas where all the inserts go off at the same time I dust the Burst charge with a bit of slow flash. For this method it is highly recommend to use Cork granules as a coating Media because it flows alot better than rice hulls.

For the Inserts burst charge I use 35Kno3/35Kclo4/30AlDark. You need very well primed Stars for hard breaks. The italian inserts sometimes break insanely hard.

Here Is what I was able to do with a tiny 4" cylinder.

https://www.amateurp...saic-redsilver/

Very good method of construction, in my opinion you should use a stronger breaking charge for the inserts, increasing the perchlorate and changing the potassium nitrate to barium nitrate, i like to add a bit of magnesium or magnalium to increase the quantity of burning gas.

Edited by kingkama, 29 January 2023 - 01:54 PM.

[Kalifireworks]

That was impressive. Looked like some quality craftsmanship on making the shell too.

You said "PLxxx" Time Fuse which was plastic wrapped. Is that the blasting fuse? I don't think that's available here in the U.S. in hobby quantities.

I have however used a similar construction with the Chinese knock off Time Fuse, especially on short pieces, where I glue it into a small section of tube and finish it like a spolette with black match to increase the fire spit.

I also can't argue against the insert break comp that you are using, those were pretty good looking!

Charles

It essentialy is the same a chinese bickford fuse just with a extra plastic coating and it comes with sizes from 6-10mm OD.

The plastic coating might be important since the Italian fireworks are constructed completely dry without any glue at all. This means the fuse is only held in place with a knot of String. In my mind the plastic helps creating a fireproof seal.

[Arthur]

If that Portuguese fuse is like Italian "Monetti" fuse it's just like Chinese 1/4" time fuse but made with a stiff plastic coating. Nice to use and easy to cut precisely even in short pieces.

[Kalifireworks]

"Monetti" is the fuse made in Portugal. Monetti just buys it from them

Its is made by "Martins & Martins Lda."

Edited by Kalifireworks, 30 January 2023 - 04:42 AM.