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Star gun/mortar tube life


Richtee

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Here’s a .75” hand rolled tube. I used a .22 shell with the head cut off for a fuse “grommet”. “Rolled” the shell brass around a .125” steel rod with linesmans pliers. Coated the hole in the tube with sodium silicate and glued in the “grommet”. Really prolongs tube life if you don’t flowerpot salute shells :D

 

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Nice Looks like a solid tube / cardboard mortar. What adhesive did you use to roll it? Or did you use sodium silicate for that too?

Charles

Edited by cmjlab
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Wood glue, I have done them with silicate as well. Perhaps a “stiffer” tube that way, but MUCH more messy :D

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I'd bet! I don't like getting sodium silicate on my hands for some reason. But I like your method for controlling fuse hole erosion. Very creative.

 

Side Note:. I have a bunch of .40 S&W reloads I paid a friend for, before I realized that it's not great to use those specific reloads. Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out?

 

If feasible, I'd like to try using the primers in crossettes like JustVisiting came up with some time ago, but I can't ind any in store, and if possible would like to use "free" ones.

 

Charles

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I have never liked the idea of using fuses, the reasons are it is consumed so you have to buy or make it, and the most important - after igniting there is little to do if something happens suddenly (cat comes to inspect what it is, someone unwanted apperas on place, etc...)

I would like to share what I have found to be very reliable and easy way for igniting star testers and similar things. A small bit of thin stainless steel wire soldered to thin solid copper wires and inserted via two holes on opposite sides, just above the endplug of the tube. The holes are glue sealed then and long enough wire is attached. For the "glow" wire I am using one strand from bicycle shifter wire (SS version) which is approximately 0,2mm diameter. Easy obtainable and I allready had it at hand. For soldering use dedicated fluid (flux) for SS. Fluid for soldering aluminum works good too. It can also be done with zinc chloride. Be sure that the wires overlap 5-10mm to avoid melting when operated. The whole circuit including cables should have resistance a bit over one ohm. I use single lithium ion 18650 cell to fire it (it has cca 4V, quite common thing these days). Properly working the wire should glow dark orange when battery is connected - should be tested before gluing into tube. It ignites the BP with a small delay after connecting the battery. It lasts and if needed the wire can be replaced. And it costs next to nothing.

Edited by Powderman
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I'd bet! I don't like getting sodium silicate on my hands for some reason. But I like your method for controlling fuse hole erosion. Very creative.

 

Side Note:. I have a bunch of .40 S&W reloads I paid a friend for, before I realized that it's not great to use those specific reloads. Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out?

 

If feasible, I'd like to try using the primers in crossettes like JustVisiting came up with some time ago, but I can't ind any in store, and if possible would like to use "free" ones.

 

Charles

YEah..primers have been “unobtanium” for a while. And as far as removing... I’d have to think a press would be the only way. Only way I’d want to do it anyway.

 

And... Powderman... that’s interesting. Could probably use a crimp connection in lieu of solder. Heck... alligator clips right to the crimps on either side of tube.

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At least here in the US, the pandemic shortage is mostly over. One of many sources for primers delivered to your door, unless you live in some of the nanny states/cities... https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-supplies/reloading-equipment-supplies/primers/c/cat100161?kwr=primers

 

percussion caps, too. https://percussioncaps10.store/Shop/schuetzen-musket-caps/

 

And BP for the lazy...

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  • 1 year later...
On 10/20/2022 at 6:14 PM, cmjlab said:

Is it possible to remove a unfired primer from the casing after the bullet and smokeless propellant are removed? Or would I need a reloading press / primer press to safely get them out?

I use a nail in a pair of pliers and a hammer to fire the primer while it's in my vise. Once I do that, I just hit it with a small punch from the inside of the casing to remove it. Just make sure you're away from anything flammable. I recommend taking the vise outside, wearing gloves, using hearing protection, and making a blast shield out of a piece of acrylic. 

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17 hours ago, TXpyro said:

I use a nail in a pair of pliers and a hammer to fire the primer while it's in my vise.

I think you missed the “unfired” qualification...

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3 hours ago, Richtee said:

I think you missed the “unfired” qualification...

Oh. I didn't see that lol

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