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TheOne's Glitter Water Percentage Thread


Mumbles

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I accidentally deleted this thread trying to remove an extra post below. Usually it gives me a confirmation, but I guess not on different devices. I wasn't able to undo this, but was able to save the content.

 

Glitter water percentage

THEONE
Yesterday, 06:06 AM
I made 100g of Winokur 19 and i added 8g of 25/75 alcohol/water. I pumped them with a syringe. After 1 day of drying, i noticed that they are not that solid hard and can break easily. Obviously this is because very little water was used. I am thinking that the stars may break in pieces during shell burst because of how relatively soft they are. What is your experience with those compositions? What if i add shellac and more alcohol in order to become harder? Will shellac destroy the effect?

memo
Yesterday, 10:04 AM
why not use dextrin for the binder ? i use 50/50 and mix in 5% ot in this case 5 grams

Edited by memo, Yesterday, 10:07 AM.

 

Mumbles
Yesterday, 10:59 AM
Glitter stars, being somewhat higher in charcoal, can take longer to dry. I wouldn't count them out yet. With enough compression 8% water is fine, but a syringe may not be getting you there.

THEONE
Yesterday, 11:19 AM
Memo i used dextrin. Mumbles i thought about the same too. I will let them sit for a bit longer to see if they become harder.

MadMat
Yesterday, 04:07 PM
I've made a number of the Winokur glitters and they can, in certain conditions, take a very long time to dry and before drying completely they will "crush" easily. I have cut mine and used just short of 10% water/alcohol. In my experience, a drying oven is a nice thing to have when making these kind of stars. Still, even though a drying oven speeds things up, for some reason you can't seem to get these stars to dry completely in the oven. I have had moisture "locked-in" by trying to dry these stars too fast.

 

BetICouldMake1
Yesterday, 05:18 PM
It's usually recommended that you allow charcoal stars to air dry for some time before applying heat. How long really depends on the initial moisture and star sice. Smaller pumped stars with low moisture are usually ok to heat right away, though if I have time I still prefer air drying for a day before putting them in the drying box, or at least keeping the temp below 100F for the initial drying. Cut stars having far more moisture might sit for several days up to a week before applying heat. If just air drying it's not unusual for charcoal stars to take several weeks to dry.

The binder may also make a difference. It's very humid where I live and I've found that stars made with sgrs tend to dry much faster than the same comp bound with dextrin. I've been meaning to do a more controlled test of this, but it may be something to consider.

Weighing your stars is a nice way of tracking moisture loss so you know when they're fully dry, though keep in mind they may actually loose more moisture than you originally added. Even in the drying box it always seems to take longer than you expect for things to dry.

 

MadMat
Yesterday, 09:32 PM
OK Lets try this again...

 

BetICouldMake1, on 30 May 2020 - 5:18 PM, said:

It's usually recommended that you allow charcoal stars to air dry for some time before applying heat. How long really depends on the initial moisture and star sice. Smaller pumped stars with low moisture are usually ok to heat right away, though if I have time I still prefer air drying for a day before putting them in the drying box, or at least keeping the temp below 100F for the initial drying. Cut stars having far more moisture might sit for several days up to a week before applying heat. If just air drying it's not unusual for charcoal stars to take several weeks to dry.

The binder may also make a difference. It's very humid where I live and I've found that stars made with sgrs tend to dry much faster than the same comp bound with dextrin. I've been meaning to do a more controlled test of this, but it may be something to consider.

Weighing your stars is a nice way of tracking moisture loss so you know when they're fully dry, though keep in mind they may actually loose more moisture than you originally added. Even in the drying box it always seems to take longer than you expect for things to dry.


I agree 100% I guess I forgot to mention that if you put these stars into a drying oven immediately after making them, it will guarantee a locked-in problem. I have had stars that took a little over three weeks to dry completely after getting moisture locked-in

THEONE
Today, 04:29 AM
Wow, thanks a lot for your info. I will let them for couple of days then.

Edited by THEONE, Today, 04:29 AM.

 

kingkama
Today, 12:01 PM
When you use a syringe and composition not contain chlorate and sulphur you can ram alittle with a dovel on thw piston, so stars are more compressed.

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Is not needed too much force, hit the center of the piston and it will endure.

Ok i understand, thanks for the tip, i will try it out

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